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Discussion Starter #1
I would like to build a wall cabinet in the hall just off the kitchen to store large kitchen gear, e.g. crock pot, waffle iron, large pots, etc.
I am attaching a couple of pictures and would appreciate your thoughts and ideas. There is baseboard heat at the bottom of the area and would like to leave the bench where it is. I will build out of red oak cabinet grade ply to match kitchen cabinets.
Space dimensions:
Wall with key hooks. Door trim to corner is 40 1/2".

Wall with picture. Corner trim to corner is 20".

Ceiling height is 92".

Exterior Door is Left Hand Inswing.
 

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My initial thought would be to make it look like the other cabinets in the kitchen...just for consistency...

Other thoughts would be about leaving the bench underneath it...will it become a "head-banger"...?

In considering the size (width) it would be important to think about how far the door needs to open...that will help to drive the width...maybe 36" might allow the door to swing a bit more...? Swinging the door too far would put the corner of the cabinet into the glass...

Might not have helped directly to your question...but just some things to consider in your design...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank You. I can't remember ever sitting on the bench....just pile junk on it. Also, the bench limits how wide the exterior door can open now so I figure if the cabinet doesn't extend past the bench the door glass won't hit the new cabinet. I will follow the basic design of the existing kitchen cabinets i.e. face frame, rail and stile doors (I bought the router bits when I had to rebuild one of the existing doors).
Just not sure how tall to make the new cabinet. Good place for a corner cabinet but I would like to get more space than what a corner cabinet would provide.
 

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If you never sit on the bench why not take it out and do cabinet that sits on the floor. That will give a lot more storage space. A red oak wall hanging cabinet won't match the dark bench.
 

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I agree with Dennis on taking the bench out. If you make a unit with a lower cabinet for heavier items, then a space in the middle to "replace" the function your bench currently provides and then a top section for lighter items, it may serve you better than a hanging cabinet...all one unit, of course.

You said you have 20" between frame and corner...you might want to make the lower cabinet wider and then bring it in for the upper cabinet (old country kitchen style)...the entire 20" for the lower and maybe 15 or 16 for the upper.

Seems like you may have several options.

For the hot air vent at the base, you could channel it out the bottom of the lower part of the unit and still provide it's heat/air into the room rather than blocking it...some 4 inch rectangular ducting would take care of that...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There is a baseboard heater behind the bench. Not sure how far away a cabinet would have to be in order not to interfere with the heat output.
 

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Is the kitchen just to the right of the picture?

Is there any way to remove the (looks like) door between the sections and just expand the kitchen cabinets so it flowed well?

If not I would be more inclined to go floor to ceiling with a pantry style build and bump the heater out to the front of the new pantry.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Kitchen is to the right. The trim at the edge of the wall that has the picture is the door frame from the kitchen into the hall area. The refrigerator is on the other side of the wall that has the picture. The baseboard heater is forced hot water so moving it is doable but I'd rather not. I suppose I could extend the cabinet to the floor and leave the bottom area open to channel the heat outwards?
 

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This is one of those perfect projects for Sketchup, Jim. You can create the walls and then try various ideas and sizes of cabinets to see how they look and fit. You don't even have to be a Sketchup expert. Just use basic block shapes and you'll get a good feel for dimensions and appearance and which way the cabinets should face.
 
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The baseboard heater will require a certain amount of clearances which should be in the specs for the heater. Try to find that model online at the manufacturer's website and see what the spec sheet says about it or find something very similar and go with that.
 

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I would worry about trapping any hot air from the heater under a cabinet. I would think about designing it to allow the air to flow around it.

Sketchup. I like the idea of trying different designs. As I'm still very much in the learning stages I think it would be a fun idea to have a sketchup section where members could post up their challenges and others can post different solutions. For expample you could do a basic sketch of the location and we could post versions of what we would build. I'm on a mini holiday away from home but I would be willing to do a sketch when I get back.
 

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They actually make a toe space heater that connects to your hot water heat system. Has it's own thermostat and fan. I also would build a base and a wall, gives you more storage and will fit in looks wise. Good Luck.
 

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how about something like this...
this obfuscated some berserk compound angles..
what's up w/ the laid over pictures...
how do we fix this...

.
 

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There is a baseboard heater behind the bench. Not sure how far away a cabinet would have to be in order not to interfere with the heat output.
More pictures please.

Does the baseboard heater actually have a vent under/behind the bench?

Edi: Never mind. Found them. :frown:
What is the actual working space of the two walls (don't include the door trim)?

Floor to ceiling height?


I might be able to tinker with it later this evening.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
More pictures please.

Does the baseboard heater actually have a vent under/behind the bench?

What is the actual working space of the two walls (don't include the door trim)?

Floor to ceiling height?

I might be able to tinker with it later this evening.
Baseboard heater is part of the forced hot water heating system....copper pipe running through fins. Protrudes 3 " out from the wall and runs from floor up 7".
Wall with the key holder has 40 1/2" working space from exterior door trim to the corner. Wall with the picture has 20" working space from the doorway trim to the corner. Floor to ceiling height is 92". Exterior door is Left Handed Inswing.
 

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Here ya go, Stick. Mikey to the rescue!
There's no charge for our friendly service! :surprise::grin::grin::grin:
Thanks Mike...
so how did you do it...

it doesn't really shoe but the toe kick is now a register for forced air...
this type og cabinet could be held up off of the floor to accommodate the WW baseboard...
 

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check..
 
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