Posts by ranman
1 - 13 of 1154 Posts
Here's some more. ...wasn't sure how many I could load at one time. I used a gear puller for the screw adjustment. I think it raises .050" per turn. The green plastic that the screw rests in is some high density industrial plastic. Using that under the lift means I don't need a lube for the top of the ball on the screw.
In the next to the last image, you can see a curved 1/4" plate against the router. It contains 3 set screws. Those set screws inset into 3 hole I lightly drilled into the router body. When the router is set in place, it locks into those protruding set screws. Once the router is positioned, I screw on that funky looking aluminum plate you saw in the first batch of images.
On the right side of the lift is a long screw to lock the router once the height adjustment is made.
Only drawback so far is I probably should have allowed another inch of router travel.
....................that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
In the next to the last image, you can see a curved 1/4" plate against the router. It contains 3 set screws. Those set screws inset into 3 hole I lightly drilled into the router body. When the router is set in place, it locks into those protruding set screws. Once the router is positioned, I screw on that funky looking aluminum plate you saw in the first batch of images.
On the right side of the lift is a long screw to lock the router once the height adjustment is made.
Only drawback so far is I probably should have allowed another inch of router travel.
....................that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
Attachments
I like making stuff. When I looked up DIY router lifts, seems everyone makes em out of wood! ....oh the horror!>
I don't have a nice warm climate controlled shop, so I wanted metal. Next was figuring out a design and how to cut the aluminum, how to fasten the router, how to make the lift raise. I'd be lost without the internet. I got ideas, but nothing close to what I came up with. It only fits my Porter Cable router.
I need to figure a way to shield the 1/2" rods from dust getting down into the bushings.
On the corners of the lift part, you can see the brass tubing that rides on the steel rods. Inside each of the 4 sections of tubing are 3 bronze bushings stacked on top of each other, then staked in place.
I don't have a nice warm climate controlled shop, so I wanted metal. Next was figuring out a design and how to cut the aluminum, how to fasten the router, how to make the lift raise. I'd be lost without the internet. I got ideas, but nothing close to what I came up with. It only fits my Porter Cable router.
I need to figure a way to shield the 1/2" rods from dust getting down into the bushings.
On the corners of the lift part, you can see the brass tubing that rides on the steel rods. Inside each of the 4 sections of tubing are 3 bronze bushings stacked on top of each other, then staked in place.
Update on my table. Should have put my progress here instead of elsewhere.
Hope I didn't break any rules by some duplicate images.
Started with a steel framework and added 3/4" plywood, then put on some free to me blue laminate, and inset my lift to the table and added some Kreg tracks. So finally got something serious started.
Hope I didn't break any rules by some duplicate images.
Started with a steel framework and added 3/4" plywood, then put on some free to me blue laminate, and inset my lift to the table and added some Kreg tracks. So finally got something serious started.
Attachments
I went with 3 by 3 angle aluminum for the fence. I wanted a split fence.... made of metal because metal doesn't warp or swell. I don't have a climate controlled carport. 😄
I cut slots in the fence to adjust the split fence.
For the split fence itself, I found two pieces of 1 1/4" square anodized aluminum tubing. I used JB Weld to glue the two pieces of tubing together, one on top of the other...... then cut em in half to make the split fence. The tubing dimensions are extremely accurate, to the fence is very true.
I cut slots in the fence to adjust the split fence.
For the split fence itself, I found two pieces of 1 1/4" square anodized aluminum tubing. I used JB Weld to glue the two pieces of tubing together, one on top of the other...... then cut em in half to make the split fence. The tubing dimensions are extremely accurate, to the fence is very true.
Attachments
I briefly thought about using the open tubing for dust control but nothing came to mind.
Tom mentioned utilizing the tubes for that purpose, so I gave it a lot more thought.
I came up with cutting some square aluminum tubing and shaping them into 'L' shapes so I could attach some vacuum hose to them. There are two of those 'L' pieces, one for each side of the split fence.
Once inserted into the fence ends, the two hoses connect into a PVC connection so that I can connect to my shop vac.
This suction system only works on the two lower tubes.
Thanks for the push, Tom. It got me motivated.
It works fantastic. Eats dust almost before it gets made. 😄
Tom mentioned utilizing the tubes for that purpose, so I gave it a lot more thought.
I came up with cutting some square aluminum tubing and shaping them into 'L' shapes so I could attach some vacuum hose to them. There are two of those 'L' pieces, one for each side of the split fence.
Once inserted into the fence ends, the two hoses connect into a PVC connection so that I can connect to my shop vac.
This suction system only works on the two lower tubes.
Thanks for the push, Tom. It got me motivated.
It works fantastic. Eats dust almost before it gets made. 😄
Attachments
I am devising a reducer molding for a flooring job I recently completed. Two doorways and a 9 foot span across a kitchen to dining room opening.
I decided that I had to come up with some sort of outfeed table. Router tables are new to me, so all I can envision using it for in short time, will be small items like trim or moldings.
I decided on a narrow outfeed table long enough to support 8' material.
I need everything on this table to be portable, for storage or taken to a job site. This table extension needs to be easily installed and removed. It folds flat when not needed.
So here's my mini-outfeed table. It's more like a ramp. It's just under 7 inches wide. I used two pieces of 1 by 4 pine that I had at the house. I split one board in half, then jointed all edges true using the split fence, and combined the 3 pieces of pine together to make the 7 inch wide outfeed table.
Kind of a fun learning process, something I haven't done before.
The outfeed table needed a leg to stand on. It also needed of course, to be adjustable.
Hope the images show what it is and what it does.
I made. 3/8" or so rabbit joint for the adjustable part of the leg to fit into. The slots would have done just fine on their own without having the support of the rabbit...... but I guess this was a great time to practice using my new toy.
Anyhow, most members have seen my bits and pieces that I have placed randomly, but they make more sense (I hope) when stacked together like this as a project.
Table still doesn't have legs yet..... another day.
For now, it's functional on my table saw table..... sort of.
I decided that I had to come up with some sort of outfeed table. Router tables are new to me, so all I can envision using it for in short time, will be small items like trim or moldings.
I decided on a narrow outfeed table long enough to support 8' material.
I need everything on this table to be portable, for storage or taken to a job site. This table extension needs to be easily installed and removed. It folds flat when not needed.
So here's my mini-outfeed table. It's more like a ramp. It's just under 7 inches wide. I used two pieces of 1 by 4 pine that I had at the house. I split one board in half, then jointed all edges true using the split fence, and combined the 3 pieces of pine together to make the 7 inch wide outfeed table.
Kind of a fun learning process, something I haven't done before.
The outfeed table needed a leg to stand on. It also needed of course, to be adjustable.
Hope the images show what it is and what it does.
I made. 3/8" or so rabbit joint for the adjustable part of the leg to fit into. The slots would have done just fine on their own without having the support of the rabbit...... but I guess this was a great time to practice using my new toy.
Anyhow, most members have seen my bits and pieces that I have placed randomly, but they make more sense (I hope) when stacked together like this as a project.
Table still doesn't have legs yet..... another day.
For now, it's functional on my table saw table..... sort of.
Attachments
That table can't possibly work jw. It has to be 5 layers thick of 3/4 inch Baltic Birch or it's going to warp. 😄
Thanks stick. I was thinking of adding a connection of thin stranded cable to the hinge to avoid overextending it. Not sure it needs to lock because that will be done on the edge of the table where it is connected. The connection of the outfeet table isn't finalized yet. Pin might work, but a machine screw would be more secure.
I attached 1x1 aluminum tubing to the far side of the router table. That makes a lip for this extension to set on and make it flush with the router table. I need either a pin or maybe a screw tapped into that 1x1 aluminum to secure it. Whatever I decide, it needs to be easily or quickly removed.
I attached 1x1 aluminum tubing to the far side of the router table. That makes a lip for this extension to set on and make it flush with the router table. I need either a pin or maybe a screw tapped into that 1x1 aluminum to secure it. Whatever I decide, it needs to be easily or quickly removed.
I ended up just adding a turnbuckle for now because I needed to use it today to make some reducer moldings. The turnbuckle pulls the outfeed table against the router table. Working on the lawn, the hinged leg can't slip.
This is my first real use of the table and it's accuracy for making a two stepped rabbet makes me happy. The first rabit is about 70 thousandths by 3/16" and the deeper second one is 3/16 by 1/8".
This reducer molding overlaps some vinyl flooring I installed. The vinyl is 75 thousandths thick. The 70 thousandths rabbit allows for some urethane construction adhesive or some other firm setting glue. The first step overlaps the vinyl edge and the second step will support the molding so that the narrow overlap can't break off. This is a very low profile trim, unlike factory wood trims that are usually at least 1/4" taller than the flooring..... a tripping hazard.
The trim transitions vinyl flooring to newly refinished oak flooring. Metal would have looked tacky.... I wanted sexy 🤗
![Wood Metal]()
![Wood Metal]()
This is my first real use of the table and it's accuracy for making a two stepped rabbet makes me happy. The first rabit is about 70 thousandths by 3/16" and the deeper second one is 3/16 by 1/8".
This reducer molding overlaps some vinyl flooring I installed. The vinyl is 75 thousandths thick. The 70 thousandths rabbit allows for some urethane construction adhesive or some other firm setting glue. The first step overlaps the vinyl edge and the second step will support the molding so that the narrow overlap can't break off. This is a very low profile trim, unlike factory wood trims that are usually at least 1/4" taller than the flooring..... a tripping hazard.
The trim transitions vinyl flooring to newly refinished oak flooring. Metal would have looked tacky.... I wanted sexy 🤗
Attachments
1 - 13 of 1154 Posts
