Posts by BigJimAK
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Go gentle on me..
This is a WIP and is my first router table... but I'm experimenting a bit. Up until a bit ago it was an Incra / Jessem lift, PC router and Incra Fence. The last few days I've added the second router (a plunge with a bitjack for table-plunging) and a pin router arm. The plunger can also use the incra fence. I'm hoping to try out some mortise-making with it.
The miter gauge is from my table saw but was designed to fit if needed. The miter track also has Tee track. I still need to make the cabinet base.
This is a WIP and is my first router table... but I'm experimenting a bit. Up until a bit ago it was an Incra / Jessem lift, PC router and Incra Fence. The last few days I've added the second router (a plunge with a bitjack for table-plunging) and a pin router arm. The plunger can also use the incra fence. I'm hoping to try out some mortise-making with it.
The miter gauge is from my table saw but was designed to fit if needed. The miter track also has Tee track. I still need to make the cabinet base.
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Thanks for all the kind words... as you can see from all the scratches on the table, router plates, etc., it was built to be used. It doesn't look like it but all you see was new three months ago. Hey, they're tools. That's why I buy 'em tough. I may not be the quickest learner out there but, with enough firewood, you can teach an old dog new tricks. Hey, we can use the firewood here in the "Cruel Arctic North"! <g>
The purpose of the picture of the lift with the wrenches is to show how, with the PC7518 and Incra/Jessem lift, the router lifts far enough for the wrench to engage the lower nut while flat on the table.
The purpose of the picture of the lift with the wrenches is to show how, with the PC7518 and Incra/Jessem lift, the router lifts far enough for the wrench to engage the lower nut while flat on the table.
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Yea.. I had to *import* the zebras... they aren't indigenous to Alaska... yet!Dang Jim !! Zebra wood table top too ? Well now you're just showing off !
Nice tables people !
I'll post my ghetto fabulous Ryobi make over soon.
I just changed the miter track and the plate is all.
Use what ya have type a deal ya know what I mean.
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The Oak Park table is owned by many here, and comes highly recommended by those who do. If you've ever watched "The Router Workshop" on PBS (15 years worth), this is the table they use, and the things they do with it, Wow!
The design follows the KISS principal yet is very versatile. Everything that comes with it has a definite purpose. If you wish you can go to routerworkshop.net and subscribe to their archive of videos... and see many projects built on the very same table you own... or go there and see it in action and *then* get the table. This is no "sales video"; it's a "master the router and router table" video archive with hundreds of episodes.
The design follows the KISS principal yet is very versatile. Everything that comes with it has a definite purpose. If you wish you can go to routerworkshop.net and subscribe to their archive of videos... and see many projects built on the very same table you own... or go there and see it in action and *then* get the table. This is no "sales video"; it's a "master the router and router table" video archive with hundreds of episodes.
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Ron,
I got it from Lee Valley Tools.
Veritas® Pin Router Arm - Lee Valley Tools
I was given a bitjack
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=43039&cat=1,43000
by a friend, though they also sell them as a pair. The bitjack lets you set up a foot-pedal powered plunge for your plunge router. I installed a 9" round base plate on it first, which works both as a freehand base and in the table.
Veritas® Base Plate/Table Insert - Lee Valley Tools
The plate comes with only the center hole drilled but with the included install kit, making the screw holes is easy-peasy. So is cutting the hole in the RT top; their kit includes provisions for cutting those circles too.
The base takes the 1-1/2" guides (available from Oak Park or Lee Valley), instead of the 1-3/16" PC guides. I've used the largest guide (1-1/2" OD) quite a bit because, with a 1/2" bit, you have an even 1/2" offset. It makes the math easy and minimizes errors, at least for me!
Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue--
1-3/4" Brass Template Guides - Lee Valley Tools
Lee Valley also sells brass router plate inserts, for when you use it handheld or in the router table.
1-3/4" Router Plate Inserts - Lee Valley Tools
I haven't yet had a chance to play with it much, as I'm trying to clear out some prior projects but at 7.5# of aluminum arm, its beefy as all get out!
I hope that helps, Ron.
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Thank ye, Deb!
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Well Deb... without the MLCS in hand to compare, I can only talk specs and appearances.
The MLCS is an 8" arm, the LV is 12". This would permit larger free hand work w/o removing it. How significant that is will vary from user to user.
The MLCS appears to have a fixed pin, the LV has a spring, should clearance be a problem.
The MLCS has 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 & 1/2" pins, the LV has 1/2, 3/8/, 1/2, 3/4" and a pointed tip for tracing patterns.
The LV has rod is clamped solidly in the arm with zero slack. I cannot speak of the MLCS though the toggle clamps I've seen have varying amounts of wobble when they aren't pressing firmly against something.
The MlCS appearsto be made of welded metal, though I cannot tell how ridgid it is. The LV is made out of cast aluminum and the fin-like things you see under the arm is not a decal; they are molded structural fins. Structurally the LV is made like a tank; I've no doubt you could drive a truck over it without damaging it. Again, I cannot speak to the MLCS.
I've nothing against the MLCS, in fact I mentioned it! It also strikes me that, with the right equipment and enough care in alignment, it could be shop-made.
The MLCS is an 8" arm, the LV is 12". This would permit larger free hand work w/o removing it. How significant that is will vary from user to user.
The MLCS appears to have a fixed pin, the LV has a spring, should clearance be a problem.
The MLCS has 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 & 1/2" pins, the LV has 1/2, 3/8/, 1/2, 3/4" and a pointed tip for tracing patterns.
The LV has rod is clamped solidly in the arm with zero slack. I cannot speak of the MLCS though the toggle clamps I've seen have varying amounts of wobble when they aren't pressing firmly against something.
The MlCS appearsto be made of welded metal, though I cannot tell how ridgid it is. The LV is made out of cast aluminum and the fin-like things you see under the arm is not a decal; they are molded structural fins. Structurally the LV is made like a tank; I've no doubt you could drive a truck over it without damaging it. Again, I cannot speak to the MLCS.
I've nothing against the MLCS, in fact I mentioned it! It also strikes me that, with the right equipment and enough care in alignment, it could be shop-made.
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Looking for Router Table Build How-To?
There are a number of step-by-step router table / base builds on here, but here's dustmaker's (Frank's) I found doing a quick search. (Please accept my apology, Frank!)
This thread is for a big, fancy top and cabinet base but should give you some ideas of what can be done.
Yours need not be large or on a fancy base.. but this gives some good construction techniques.
Don't tell Frank I said this but he built a mighty nice table!
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/16183-router-table-cabinet-build.html
There are a number of step-by-step router table / base builds on here, but here's dustmaker's (Frank's) I found doing a quick search. (Please accept my apology, Frank!)
This thread is for a big, fancy top and cabinet base but should give you some ideas of what can be done.
Yours need not be large or on a fancy base.. but this gives some good construction techniques.
Don't tell Frank I said this but he built a mighty nice table!
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/16183-router-table-cabinet-build.html
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I'm glad to hear I'm not the *only* one! Up until recently I've been trying to talk myself out of installing some Kreg Klamp track in the top of my router table (you know, multi-purpose space). After following this thread I've been trying to talk myself into installing it instead of building another router table, with it installed! I'd like to get a couple of years out of this one at least!
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Scott... that looks good, and since its stable, you're set! It looks like it folds down nicely and should serve you well.
I'm space-limited myself, so everything I have is on casters so it can be stored against the wall in the garage. If it was me, even when I built another table I'd hang onto that one, since it stores in limited space. There's times (such as when using rail and style bits) where having multiple tables set up concurrently can be a real time-saver... especially if you make a mistake and have to re-make a piece that already has cuts in it from other bits and setups. (Don't ask me how I know this.)
I'm space-limited myself, so everything I have is on casters so it can be stored against the wall in the garage. If it was me, even when I built another table I'd hang onto that one, since it stores in limited space. There's times (such as when using rail and style bits) where having multiple tables set up concurrently can be a real time-saver... especially if you make a mistake and have to re-make a piece that already has cuts in it from other bits and setups. (Don't ask me how I know this.)
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You should see Mike's work, Duane. Very impressive.That scares the crap out of me just looking at it, but if it works for you its good to go I reckon LOL !
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