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That is an excellent solution to tight working space Berry. I've suggested a few times that common folding table legs would work but your solution is probably more solid and you can still use the workmate for other jobs.
Posts by Cherryville Chuck
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Nice table Mike and welcome to the forum since this is your first post. Why don't you go to the introductions and introduce yourself to everyone?
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If there is most of us have never heard of it. If it is for a miter jig closer is better. If is for a fingerboard it needs to be far enough back to make room for your work and the fingers. I prefer to use a sled instead of a miter jig, it is much simpler.
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The death of one router table means the birth of a new and improved one.
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That's very similar to the design of my latest table Tim except the tunnel down the center is much narrower on mine. I needed more drawer space with mine. It sounds like you plan on closing the tunnel in but mine will stay open. I like to be able to work from both sides of the table. That puts me close on one side for small parts and gives me more table from the other side for working on panels.
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It looks like the hinged addition to the table is meant to slide back and forth to the main table Christer. Is that correct?
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I'm almost finished with my latest table and I thought I would post how I set up my remote switch. I made the table with the hole offset to one side so that I could be close to the fence for small parts on one side or stand on the other side and have extra room for wide panels. This meant that a remote switch couldn't be mounted under the table, it had to be above and capable of facing either way so the only option for that was fence mounted. I bought a magnetic paddle switch and tried that but the switch turned out to be defective (more on that later) so I switched to a common light switch in a water proof box.
The box I had built in the fence to allow for dust collection turned out to be just the right width for the outdoor electrical box. All I had to do was use thin plywood to extend the sides up and add strips on the inside to trap the ears on the electrical box. The box simply lifts up and out so that I can turn the fence around to face the other way. The photos show that I used a surface mount box on the router cabinet side and I used an old extension cord for a wire going to it and that gave me a built in extension cord for the table at about 15' long. Another piece of the cord runs from the plug in box to the switch box and when the switch turns on it energizes the plug ins. I've been able to run both my M12V2 and my shop vac at the same time from that box so the switch turns both on simultaneously.
So far I'm really liking having the switch on the fence. There is no fumbling around guessing where it is, I can see it and it's inches away from where my hands are so I think this is a better solution than an under table mount. The paddle switch I bought came from Powertec through Amazon. They refunded my money for the switch but I'm still out the shipping. There is nowhere locally to buy one. Powertec never responded to two emails of my asking for advice to see if something else could be tried to make it work. The switch turns the router on but it won't stay on unless I'm holding the start button down. The magnetic part is defective. It's not a total loss. I turned the switch around in the frame so that the start button is under the paddle and I added a bolt through the paddle to contact the switch and I'll eventually use it on my drill press as a hands free dead man's switch. My advice is don't buy this switch through mail order.
The box I had built in the fence to allow for dust collection turned out to be just the right width for the outdoor electrical box. All I had to do was use thin plywood to extend the sides up and add strips on the inside to trap the ears on the electrical box. The box simply lifts up and out so that I can turn the fence around to face the other way. The photos show that I used a surface mount box on the router cabinet side and I used an old extension cord for a wire going to it and that gave me a built in extension cord for the table at about 15' long. Another piece of the cord runs from the plug in box to the switch box and when the switch turns on it energizes the plug ins. I've been able to run both my M12V2 and my shop vac at the same time from that box so the switch turns both on simultaneously.
So far I'm really liking having the switch on the fence. There is no fumbling around guessing where it is, I can see it and it's inches away from where my hands are so I think this is a better solution than an under table mount. The paddle switch I bought came from Powertec through Amazon. They refunded my money for the switch but I'm still out the shipping. There is nowhere locally to buy one. Powertec never responded to two emails of my asking for advice to see if something else could be tried to make it work. The switch turns the router on but it won't stay on unless I'm holding the start button down. The magnetic part is defective. It's not a total loss. I turned the switch around in the frame so that the start button is under the paddle and I added a bolt through the paddle to contact the switch and I'll eventually use it on my drill press as a hands free dead man's switch. My advice is don't buy this switch through mail order.
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Good job so far Tom. It looks like all you need is a fence and you are ready to rout.
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I know they had some warped table problems a few years ago Jessie because we saw guys on here complaining about them. Whether they fixed that since I don't know.
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