Darrink, I found your router table to be just the design I need. Is there any chance that you could give us a few dimensions to go with the pictures? Thanks, Shepherduke
Wanted! pictures of your router table!
Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me. 
So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.
So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.
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Kevin,
Here are some pictures with the dimensions. Let me know if I missed anything, or if you need more details.
The cabinet is made of 5/8" plywood, and the face frame is made from 2X4's ripped to 3/4" thickness.
Thanks!
Here are some pictures with the dimensions. Let me know if I missed anything, or if you need more details.
The cabinet is made of 5/8" plywood, and the face frame is made from 2X4's ripped to 3/4" thickness.
Thanks!
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Here are a few shots of my table. The table is a work-in-progress – lots of work yet to be done on it.
Photo 1: In this photo, please note the following:
Dust collection connection at the left end.
Switch left of centre. (Second one exists on opposite side.)
Lift in the middle (discussed in another thread.)
Clean top design – just the MagnaLock Ring insert – no insert plate, no t-track and no mitre track.
1/4"-20 inserts around edge of top, to mount accessories, such as t-track or mitre track.
Photo 2: Plans call for a set of drawers in the right pedestal and a couple of doors on the left pedestal.
Photo 3: The small L-brackets in the upper corners of the pedestals provide support for the alignment bolts in the top’s brace members. These allow one to make the top square, on two axis, to the router axis. In this photo, one can see the dust collection elbow on the left end. One of the channels in the brace attached to bottom of the top has been closed in to form a dust chute from the space below the MagnaLock Ring (see photos 1 and 2) to the dust collection elbow.
Photo 4: This shot shows the dust collection port on the outfeed side of the table.
Specifications:
Top: 24”x48”, top surface 36” above the floor; two layers of 3/4" MDF, 1-1/2”x1-1/2” red oak edging, laminated top and bottom; 1”x3” maple brace on the bottom of the top
Carcase: base is two layers of 3/4" BB plywood; pedestals are made 3/4" BB plywood; undersized wheels (2”) to be replaced
Cassandra
Photo 1: In this photo, please note the following:
Dust collection connection at the left end.
Switch left of centre. (Second one exists on opposite side.)
Lift in the middle (discussed in another thread.)
Clean top design – just the MagnaLock Ring insert – no insert plate, no t-track and no mitre track.
1/4"-20 inserts around edge of top, to mount accessories, such as t-track or mitre track.
Photo 2: Plans call for a set of drawers in the right pedestal and a couple of doors on the left pedestal.
Photo 3: The small L-brackets in the upper corners of the pedestals provide support for the alignment bolts in the top’s brace members. These allow one to make the top square, on two axis, to the router axis. In this photo, one can see the dust collection elbow on the left end. One of the channels in the brace attached to bottom of the top has been closed in to form a dust chute from the space below the MagnaLock Ring (see photos 1 and 2) to the dust collection elbow.
Photo 4: This shot shows the dust collection port on the outfeed side of the table.
Specifications:
Top: 24”x48”, top surface 36” above the floor; two layers of 3/4" MDF, 1-1/2”x1-1/2” red oak edging, laminated top and bottom; 1”x3” maple brace on the bottom of the top
Carcase: base is two layers of 3/4" BB plywood; pedestals are made 3/4" BB plywood; undersized wheels (2”) to be replaced
Cassandra
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Router table from new poster
Hello guys, my name is Bill and this is my first post.
I have a "gentleman's" shop that I use for fun, and since it is attached directly to the living area, I am careful to collect dust. This system works well and you may find some useful ideas for your shop. I have attached the router table to my Ryobi BT 3000 saw to save space in the shop, and it works very well for the things I do.
One simple idea is to split the end of a 2 1/2" dust collection hose, and wrap it loosely around the open area of the router base, under the table. I did not want a complete seal, just enough to collect the chips and cause an airflow away from the router. This also pulls chips down through the opening for the router bit. It is not 100%, but it gets almost all of the chips that normally fall into the box housing the router. I wanted some airflow by the router to help keep it cool.
The second idea is to collect the topside chips through end of the fence rather than have a hose coming out the back side. Everything inside the fence (box) has been designed to aid airflow, and that design also works very well. It has never had any buildup inside. It feeds into a 2 1/2" hose which has been split from the main 4" feed.
The main 4" feed Y's the fence hose off, then continues to a plenum chamber that allows me to switch between the saw and the router box. At one time I took both 2 1/2" feeds off the plenum chamber, but now I just do the one.
The router fence clamps to the saw fence and is fully adjustable. The table top is separate from the box and has leveling screws in it.
Hello guys, my name is Bill and this is my first post.
I have a "gentleman's" shop that I use for fun, and since it is attached directly to the living area, I am careful to collect dust. This system works well and you may find some useful ideas for your shop. I have attached the router table to my Ryobi BT 3000 saw to save space in the shop, and it works very well for the things I do.
One simple idea is to split the end of a 2 1/2" dust collection hose, and wrap it loosely around the open area of the router base, under the table. I did not want a complete seal, just enough to collect the chips and cause an airflow away from the router. This also pulls chips down through the opening for the router bit. It is not 100%, but it gets almost all of the chips that normally fall into the box housing the router. I wanted some airflow by the router to help keep it cool.
The second idea is to collect the topside chips through end of the fence rather than have a hose coming out the back side. Everything inside the fence (box) has been designed to aid airflow, and that design also works very well. It has never had any buildup inside. It feeds into a 2 1/2" hose which has been split from the main 4" feed.
The main 4" feed Y's the fence hose off, then continues to a plenum chamber that allows me to switch between the saw and the router box. At one time I took both 2 1/2" feeds off the plenum chamber, but now I just do the one.
The router fence clamps to the saw fence and is fully adjustable. The table top is separate from the box and has leveling screws in it.
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2
My new table
This is a design you may recognize from woodsmith. I modified the design a little. The top is hinged for easy access to the router. The router plate and fence were reused from an earlier table I made. The top is 3/4" ply with 2 layers of 1/4" tempered masonite the edges are 3/4" oak and then the top and bottom surfaces are formica. The plate is lexan. The fence I made with 3/4" luan ply and maple for the auxiliary fence faces.
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This is a design you may recognize from woodsmith. I modified the design a little. The top is hinged for easy access to the router. The router plate and fence were reused from an earlier table I made. The top is 3/4" ply with 2 layers of 1/4" tempered masonite the edges are 3/4" oak and then the top and bottom surfaces are formica. The plate is lexan. The fence I made with 3/4" luan ply and maple for the auxiliary fence faces.
homemade table
this is my fourth router table attempt.
this is my fourth router table attempt.
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New top
My old Rockler top seemed too thin for the weight of a BenchDog Pro lift and a PC 7518, so I built a new top. It's two pieces of 3/4" phenolic-surfaced Baltic Birch ply, laminated with contact cement, and hardwood edging. The fence base is 3" x 3" x 3/8" aluminum angle from Online Metals. The split face is 3/4" MDF, sealed with shellac, sanded at 400, and waxed. I made two sets of faces, the 6" high "regular" shown here, and a 12" set for upright panels, etc. Leveling of the lift is accomplished with eight 8-32 set screws in threaded brass inserts (the largest that would fit in the rabbet for the lift), two on either side of each corner, so the weight is distributed.
I occasionally have to move things around, so I'm continuing to simply mount the top on a large B&D WorkMate (an old model with one-piece legs, now discontinued). There's a piece of aluminum angle screwed to the underside of the top to clamp the top in the WorkMate. Not as nifty as a base cabinet with drawers, but it folds up.
My old Rockler top seemed too thin for the weight of a BenchDog Pro lift and a PC 7518, so I built a new top. It's two pieces of 3/4" phenolic-surfaced Baltic Birch ply, laminated with contact cement, and hardwood edging. The fence base is 3" x 3" x 3/8" aluminum angle from Online Metals. The split face is 3/4" MDF, sealed with shellac, sanded at 400, and waxed. I made two sets of faces, the 6" high "regular" shown here, and a 12" set for upright panels, etc. Leveling of the lift is accomplished with eight 8-32 set screws in threaded brass inserts (the largest that would fit in the rabbet for the lift), two on either side of each corner, so the weight is distributed.
I occasionally have to move things around, so I'm continuing to simply mount the top on a large B&D WorkMate (an old model with one-piece legs, now discontinued). There's a piece of aluminum angle screwed to the underside of the top to clamp the top in the WorkMate. Not as nifty as a base cabinet with drawers, but it folds up.
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