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Hey bob:

Welcome to the Router Forums! Please, don't stay new, settle in and stay a while.

You're following the path that many have followed. The first table is rarely, I believe, the one a routerer will settle on.

Cassandra
tanks casandra.....and I meant simply!
actually I had another table in connx with my craftsman router. I think the combined cost was about 100 bucks......new! Table was a benchtop and not real good but the little router will stay. I learned some things with it, tho..enuff to dive in about two months ago and st up a shop in my basement right next to my now covered motorcycle!
 

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New addition to my table. Very recently I added an Incra 17" LS Positioner Super System to my collection of toys. Already tried the edge jointing technique. Also, did a test run of slot cutting, using the Positioner to do the spacing of the slots. What a treat!! Quick and accurate.

Cassandra
 

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New addition to my table. Very recently I added an Incra 17" LS Positioner Super System to my collection of toys. Already tried the edge jointing technique. Also, did a test run of slot cutting, using the Positioner to do the spacing of the slots. What a treat!! Quick and accurate.

Cassandra

Is that rig cool or what!!!!!!:sold: You're gonna love it Cass!!

Sounds like you may be thinking of mounting yours, as I did mine..here's a few pics,
 

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Hi Bill:

I have already fallen in love with it! It has so much potential! The videos on YouTube for the LS Positioner sold me. Dovetails, box joints, sliding dovetails, slots, tongue and groove, edge jointing, vertical panel routing, . . . So much easier now!

Thanks for the photos, Bill. I am a bit of a purist. As indicated in other threads, I am of the camp that says minimal penetration of the router table top. No t-track. No mitre track. No starter pin hole. No fence mounting holes or tracks. The only penetration of the top on my router table top is for the router. All accessories either clamp to the table via clamps (as seen in the photo above) or clamp to the table via the 1/4"-20 inserts located in the edging.

Cassandra
 

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Hi Bill:

I have already fallen in love with it! It has so much potential! The videos on YouTube for the LS Positioner sold me. Dovetails, box joints, sliding dovetails, slots, tongue and groove, edge jointing, vertical panel routing, . . . So much easier now!

Thanks for the photos, Bill. I am a bit of a purist. As indicated in other threads, I am of the camp that says minimal penetration of the router table top. No t-track. No mitre track. No starter pin hole. No fence mounting holes or tracks. The only penetration of the top on my router table top is for the router. All accessories either clamp to the table via clamps (as seen in the photo above) or clamp to the table via the 1/4"-20 inserts located in the edging.

Cassandra

Thats cool Cass. we all go about things a bit differently...Just so long as it does not distract from the enjoyment of the journey :)
 

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New addition to my table. Very recently I added an Incra 17" LS Positioner Super System to my collection of toys. Already tried the edge jointing technique. Also, did a test run of slot cutting, using the Positioner to do the spacing of the slots. What a treat!! Quick and accurate.

Cassandra
Hi Cassandra
Thanks for shareing I appreciat hearing from you you're addition is something else for me to think about is it worth my expence etc. Just getting under way and already looking forward to improvements so Thanks again Russ
 

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You guys/gals are making me jealous! Nice set ups!
So, when are you going to join us? :jester:

By the way, I got it at Lee Valley, for CDN$389. That includes the 17" LS Positioner with Pro-Fence, Wonder Fence, Templates and book plus instructional DVD.

Cassandra
 

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Hi Cassandra
Thanks for shareing I appreciat hearing from you you're addition is something else for me to think about is it worth my expence etc. Just getting under way and already looking forward to improvements so Thanks again Russ
You're very welcome, Russ!! Glad to be of help!

Cassandra
 

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Your table is beautiful. I am about to enclose an open stand and wondered how much room to allow around a router motor for airflow and exhaust. Those of you with the cabinetry must have some breathing space for the router?

Thanks,
Tim
 

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Hi Tim:

Welcome to the Router Forums!

Different people have different ideas as to what space, how much air, and the direction of dust flow.

A very common practice is to enclosed the router in a "box" - a cabinet - and then have the dust swept out the back at the bottom of the "box", with vents at the front of the box to allow replenishment air to flow towards the router. One needs to make sure that the vents allow sufficient air for the router to cool itself.

Other people, like myself, don't enclose the router. My set-up collects dust at the table end of the router and pulls it away from the router (preventing clogging the air intake of the router.) With no enclosure, the router can draw all the air it wants. Besides, the air flow from the router works with the dust collector to remove the dust from around the bit.

Cassandra
 

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How many tools do you have in the shop that box in the motor with all the saw dust,not to many I think,,many say the switch on my router will not work any more ,gee I wonder why..the router is not made to work in air tight box.. :(
Not to say anything about the door is always in the way when you are using the router.. :(

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-999-500-0...ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1294364877&sr=1-1

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