Very nice.
Wanted! pictures of your router table!
Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me. 
So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.
So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.
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701 - 720 of 1154 Posts
My new router table
So my shop was under the water during the Sandy (I am in NY). All my tools were gone. Had to rebuild everything including my router table. Here is couple of pictures. My split fence is mounted on Freud SH-5 professional micro adjustable shaper, router lift is INCRA Mast-R-Lift II and digital readout for up and down location of the bit. Cabinet I build myself. I do not own a joiner so I use Freud SH-5 instead. I do some cabinet making so having INCRA lift and digital readout for tool positioning is great. Table top is also INCRA 24x32 and INCRA miter v27.
So my shop was under the water during the Sandy (I am in NY). All my tools were gone. Had to rebuild everything including my router table. Here is couple of pictures. My split fence is mounted on Freud SH-5 professional micro adjustable shaper, router lift is INCRA Mast-R-Lift II and digital readout for up and down location of the bit. Cabinet I build myself. I do not own a joiner so I use Freud SH-5 instead. I do some cabinet making so having INCRA lift and digital readout for tool positioning is great. Table top is also INCRA 24x32 and INCRA miter v27.
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Finished Router Table
I just finished my table for the Incra Positioner system based on what I saw other do on this forum so it's really nothing new - other than for me. I'm very pleased with the way the whole thing works. The Positioner system really is as accurate as advertised. I've got one on both my table saw as well as this one. On the saw, when I set the measurement on 2 inches for example, the cut board literally measures 2.000". Cutting 1/32" strips is easy and reproducible plus they are cut on the outside of the blade so you're not trying to push a small strip between the blade and fence.
One thing I did a little differently on the table was to attach the cover (drawer front with the air holes for the dust collection system) in front of the router to the cabinet with rare earth permanent magnets. They are very strong and automatically center the cover to match the other drawer fronts.
Thanks for the ideas,
Don
I just finished my table for the Incra Positioner system based on what I saw other do on this forum so it's really nothing new - other than for me. I'm very pleased with the way the whole thing works. The Positioner system really is as accurate as advertised. I've got one on both my table saw as well as this one. On the saw, when I set the measurement on 2 inches for example, the cut board literally measures 2.000". Cutting 1/32" strips is easy and reproducible plus they are cut on the outside of the blade so you're not trying to push a small strip between the blade and fence.
One thing I did a little differently on the table was to attach the cover (drawer front with the air holes for the dust collection system) in front of the router to the cabinet with rare earth permanent magnets. They are very strong and automatically center the cover to match the other drawer fronts.
Thanks for the ideas,
Don
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Al, yes, they were the first cuts I made using the system. I used Baltic Birch which doesn't cut real cleanly on the back sides but what is visible looks great. I also found out how critical it is not to go to far when when using the little "sled" when cutting the tails. First time through I went a little too far and a brand new Freud dovetail cutter didn't like the metal bolt that holds the runner on. Also, I found that when making the first back cut on the tails, if you cut as deep as what was suggested there just wasn't much left of the plywood. I reduced the cut depth by half and it worked just fine.
Don
Also, I found that when making the first back cut on the tails, if you cut as deep as what was suggested there just wasn't much left of the plywood. I reduced the cut depth by half and it worked just fine.Don
My Table
My table is an old Craftsman 45.5cm (18”) by 33cm (13”). Its mounted to a 12mm concrete form plywood and then clamped to the top of the table saw. There is a 10 foot 10 gauge extension cord attached to the plywood with an outlet box. Ive used it for 8 or 9 years. I modified the fence when it was first put to use. I cut a metal “L” bracket, tapped some holes in the two pieces using them to give more height to the metal frame. They support the wood fence better. It can work as a split fence by changing the wood face.
I have often considered extending 3 sides but now feel it is just better to make a new one. The ridges are bitter sweet. They have little friction, especially when waxed. The down side smaller pieces tend to tilt between the ridges.:bad: The cross bar for the split fence is constantly in the way of the vacuum plenum, and the miter track is about useless. Hope to have the new table done shortly.
My table is an old Craftsman 45.5cm (18”) by 33cm (13”). Its mounted to a 12mm concrete form plywood and then clamped to the top of the table saw. There is a 10 foot 10 gauge extension cord attached to the plywood with an outlet box. Ive used it for 8 or 9 years. I modified the fence when it was first put to use. I cut a metal “L” bracket, tapped some holes in the two pieces using them to give more height to the metal frame. They support the wood fence better. It can work as a split fence by changing the wood face.
I have often considered extending 3 sides but now feel it is just better to make a new one. The ridges are bitter sweet. They have little friction, especially when waxed. The down side smaller pieces tend to tilt between the ridges.:bad: The cross bar for the split fence is constantly in the way of the vacuum plenum, and the miter track is about useless. Hope to have the new table done shortly.
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Here is my KISS router table for my bosch 1617 router.
I used some melamine from the local hardware store. It's cheaper than 3/4 plywood so a simple choice for me.
Also picked up the Grizzly router plate. No issues with it either. Loving my new Rockler quick release clamps as well. Much better than the C-clamps I started with.
Loving it so far, almost have the face frame done for some laundry room cabinets!
Edited so they show up as attachments instead of taking up the whole thread.
I used some melamine from the local hardware store. It's cheaper than 3/4 plywood so a simple choice for me.
Also picked up the Grizzly router plate. No issues with it either. Loving my new Rockler quick release clamps as well. Much better than the C-clamps I started with.
Loving it so far, almost have the face frame done for some laundry room cabinets!
Edited so they show up as attachments instead of taking up the whole thread.
Attachments
Here is a shot of my table set up to process different width planks for finger joints.
The material widths vary from about 3" wide to approx. 8 3/4 wide.
The thickness is uniform at about 1.700".
I used old inline skate wheels to provide hold down and push back for holding he work as it travels over the cutter.
The mounting lip at the front attaches to he table via threaded inserts under the table top.
The hold down rollers are mounted to a tee bar mounted to the fence. The clamps at the end of the fence are to prevent the force on the rollers from lifting the fence
The material widths vary from about 3" wide to approx. 8 3/4 wide.
The thickness is uniform at about 1.700".
I used old inline skate wheels to provide hold down and push back for holding he work as it travels over the cutter.
The mounting lip at the front attaches to he table via threaded inserts under the table top.
The hold down rollers are mounted to a tee bar mounted to the fence. The clamps at the end of the fence are to prevent the force on the rollers from lifting the fence
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701 - 720 of 1154 Posts
