Wanted! pictures of your router table!
741 - 760 of 1154 Posts
Joined
·
6,085 Posts
Indeed, a truly unique approach you took Brian. I like it! Any thought given to adding drawers/compartments etc?
Joined
·
1,186 Posts
Did it work? I seems to me it should. You don’t have to worry about someone walking off with it either.
Joined
·
23 Posts
Brian,
Your router table looks like an excellent blend of artwork with function!
Bill
Your router table looks like an excellent blend of artwork with function!
Bill
Yes, I am very pleased with the performance. Not too noisy and little vibration.
I was not concerned with storage because I have plenty. I was more concerned with dust collection, which I now have. A six inch pipe to the bottom rear from the Clear-Vue Max does an excellent job along with the joint tech fence. The stock sucks to the table from the vacuum.
The large dado and rabbit on the top was done with a router. The top was trimmed with a 12 inch blade and Laguna table saw. I had to tack a 3/4 inch runner to the bottom of the top and used the miter slot to trim the top to length. See photo. It was the first time I had used that technique. It worked well.
I really don't like the proportions. I wanted plenty of toe and knee space and I have it. But I think it made the whole table look awkward. I would of course change things on the next one.
Joined
·
20,552 Posts
Joined
·
20,552 Posts
Hi Jim.
"gets the job done" works for me.
You have given me some new ideas for one of my tables. (the 'to do' list just keeps on growing).....:haha:
Joined
·
1,186 Posts
Looks like a good choice to me. I wouldnt say thats a slow learner.
Joined
·
16,386 Posts
If there is most of us have never heard of it. If it is for a miter jig closer is better. If is for a fingerboard it needs to be far enough back to make room for your work and the fingers. I prefer to use a sled instead of a miter jig, it is much simpler.
I get asked every once in awhile about my homemade router table, so figured I'd best post pictures of it - don't know if it is as an example of what you can do with little, or just a example of what not to do. :lol:
I went thru my posts and picture files and came up with these pictures. This is version four or five I believe, and I believe I've had this particular version since about 2000, or possibly even earlier. It's made with 1/2" plywood, for the top, and router plates. Under it is supported by a spiderweb of 2X4 pieces, quite close together - give great support, and have had no problem with sagging. It's mainly held together with Titebond II, but bolted to the shelf with nuts and bolts, the total cost of which was somewhere around $2.50 if I recall right, and they have been reused since the first verion. The rest is scrap I had in the shop, so I don't count any cost of that. No, I did buy some screws and washers to hold the router to the router plate, cost unknown. Very basic, but answers my needs nicely. If I ever need a fence, a piece of 2X4 and a couple of clamps should do nicely.
First picture: The top. It is made of three pieces of plywood, four if you include the router plate. The only thing I can come up with for making this like this is, probably I didn't have any larger pieces of plywood handy. The router plate locks in nicely, with no movement, you have to lift the front, and lift, to take the router out.
Second picture: This is the best photo I have of the underside. On the left is a piece of 2X4, and on the right is the power strip I plug the router into, and that is attached to a piece of 2X4 on that side.
Third picture: And this rather bad picture is the router plate, with the router attached to the bottom side.
Fourth picture: This is the router mounted on the bottom side of the router plate. The hole in the plate was intended for hanging on a nail, but I have since drill holes in the plates on the leading edge, seems to be handier.
Fifth picture: This not so clear is with the router plate out, and where the router fits in. The lip on each side is about 1/2" each, with another at the rear, and support the plate and router nicely. The router winds up very close to each side, so there is maximum support.
Sixth picture: This is my new router plate master. Not sure why I tossed the other one, but obviously this one must be an improvement, of some sort. Down is printed on it, so that when the new router plate is finished, it will be turned so the nail holes are on the bottom. The cut corner on the plate is so I will know that goes to the upper right, and makes sure I have the right side on top - I was not able to get both sides 100% symetrical, and if I did it anyother way, I would be sure to get the wrong side up, and it would not fit quite right - so this saves hassle, and irritation. The holes for the screws to hold the router on are marked, but I don't think I will drill them, instead just put the router on the plate and mark the hole position, then drill them; then if I have a different router, with different hole spacing, won't have to worry about it.
Seventh picture: Just for the heck of it, one of my cane handle masters, and a cane made from it. As a bonus, you also get another poor view of under the front of the table.
Don't ask me for plans, I don't have any. I am not even sure how I made the darn thing. I started on it, made it, then couldn't tell how I did it. I still don't know how I cut those sides and made them fit so nicely to the router plate. I can't tell how I made the sides for the router plate either. Zen woodworking.
This has answered my need very nicely. It still does, but now I am going to extend the left side approximately 33" - that's the size of a bench I will be using as the extension. There are times when you simply don't need fancy.
I went thru my posts and picture files and came up with these pictures. This is version four or five I believe, and I believe I've had this particular version since about 2000, or possibly even earlier. It's made with 1/2" plywood, for the top, and router plates. Under it is supported by a spiderweb of 2X4 pieces, quite close together - give great support, and have had no problem with sagging. It's mainly held together with Titebond II, but bolted to the shelf with nuts and bolts, the total cost of which was somewhere around $2.50 if I recall right, and they have been reused since the first verion. The rest is scrap I had in the shop, so I don't count any cost of that. No, I did buy some screws and washers to hold the router to the router plate, cost unknown. Very basic, but answers my needs nicely. If I ever need a fence, a piece of 2X4 and a couple of clamps should do nicely.
First picture: The top. It is made of three pieces of plywood, four if you include the router plate. The only thing I can come up with for making this like this is, probably I didn't have any larger pieces of plywood handy. The router plate locks in nicely, with no movement, you have to lift the front, and lift, to take the router out.
Second picture: This is the best photo I have of the underside. On the left is a piece of 2X4, and on the right is the power strip I plug the router into, and that is attached to a piece of 2X4 on that side.
Third picture: And this rather bad picture is the router plate, with the router attached to the bottom side.
Fourth picture: This is the router mounted on the bottom side of the router plate. The hole in the plate was intended for hanging on a nail, but I have since drill holes in the plates on the leading edge, seems to be handier.
Fifth picture: This not so clear is with the router plate out, and where the router fits in. The lip on each side is about 1/2" each, with another at the rear, and support the plate and router nicely. The router winds up very close to each side, so there is maximum support.
Sixth picture: This is my new router plate master. Not sure why I tossed the other one, but obviously this one must be an improvement, of some sort. Down is printed on it, so that when the new router plate is finished, it will be turned so the nail holes are on the bottom. The cut corner on the plate is so I will know that goes to the upper right, and makes sure I have the right side on top - I was not able to get both sides 100% symetrical, and if I did it anyother way, I would be sure to get the wrong side up, and it would not fit quite right - so this saves hassle, and irritation. The holes for the screws to hold the router on are marked, but I don't think I will drill them, instead just put the router on the plate and mark the hole position, then drill them; then if I have a different router, with different hole spacing, won't have to worry about it.
Seventh picture: Just for the heck of it, one of my cane handle masters, and a cane made from it. As a bonus, you also get another poor view of under the front of the table.
Don't ask me for plans, I don't have any. I am not even sure how I made the darn thing. I started on it, made it, then couldn't tell how I did it. I still don't know how I cut those sides and made them fit so nicely to the router plate. I can't tell how I made the sides for the router plate either. Zen woodworking.
This has answered my need very nicely. It still does, but now I am going to extend the left side approximately 33" - that's the size of a bench I will be using as the extension. There are times when you simply don't need fancy.
Attachments
Joined
·
14 Posts
My New Router Table
This is the first router table I have built. I had been looking at different plans for a long time, and incorporated ideas from several of them. The basic cabinet design is from the WoodWorking For Mere Mortals website. I used Steve's frame and panel construction idea, sketched it out in Sketchup to get the dimensions needed to construct it. Built-in sawdust collection baffling ideas from a set of plans by Creston Wood. Cabinet is cedar framing and birch plywood panels, all sealed with one coat of Australian Timber Oil. The top is two layers of 3/4" MDF with 3/4" oak edging, and laminate on both sides. The lift is a JessEm RouterLift II. Homemade knobs for all the fence adjustments. The pictures tell a better story than I can.
So far, it is working better than I hoped. Dust collection is excellent and the noise is so much better than free hand routing.
Jake
This is the first router table I have built. I had been looking at different plans for a long time, and incorporated ideas from several of them. The basic cabinet design is from the WoodWorking For Mere Mortals website. I used Steve's frame and panel construction idea, sketched it out in Sketchup to get the dimensions needed to construct it. Built-in sawdust collection baffling ideas from a set of plans by Creston Wood. Cabinet is cedar framing and birch plywood panels, all sealed with one coat of Australian Timber Oil. The top is two layers of 3/4" MDF with 3/4" oak edging, and laminate on both sides. The lift is a JessEm RouterLift II. Homemade knobs for all the fence adjustments. The pictures tell a better story than I can.
So far, it is working better than I hoped. Dust collection is excellent and the noise is so much better than free hand routing.
Jake
Attachments
Joined
·
66 Posts
Joined
·
14 Posts
Sketchup is a free 3D drafting program. It is very easy to use once you learn the basics, and you can do anything from a simple cube with a hole in it to a whole house. It is limited only by the user. If interested, just Google "sketchup" and you will find the Trimble site to download it from.
Here is a sketch of the fence locking knob on my table. It provides all of the details that I had for the knobs. They can be scaled to whatever size you want for the application. This sketch came from another set of plans, but there is no identification of the author on them, and I do not remember where they came from. I also made other knobs just countersinking a T-nut in plywood. They can be seen on the bit guard and stop blocks.
Jake
Attachments
Joined
·
1,186 Posts
Jake thanks for the tip
741 - 760 of 1154 Posts
