RainMan 2.0· Registered
What do you do when you need to remove your harmonic balancer?Here's some more. ...wasn't sure how many I could load at one time. I used a gear puller for the screw adjustment. I think it raises .050" per turn. The green plastic that the screw rests in is some high density industrial plastic. Using that under the lift means I don't need a lube for the top of the ball on the screw.
In the next to the last image, you can see a curved 1/4" plate against the router. It contains 3 set screws. Those set screws inset into 3 hole I lightly drilled into the router body. When the router is set in place, it locks into those protruding set screws. Once the router is positioned, I screw on that funky looking aluminum plate you saw in the first batch of images.
On the right side of the lift is a long screw to lock the router once the height adjustment is made.
Only drawback so far is I probably should have allowed another inch of router travel.
....................that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
I’d certainly hope the pics keep a coming . My fav thread by farMan, this is an old string, 2009. But it has some great posts and wonderful ideas. Worth a review now and again.
Hi Charles. Not quite but it is useable now at least!Good job so far Tom. It looks like all you need is a fence and you are ready to rout.
The DC size is a restriction of the port size on my shop vac. For the under table dust collection it draws directly off the collection port on the Triton router (indicated in the photo), not from in the actual cabinet. I left the cabinet front open for air cooling and venting for the router.Great build, Tom! You might want to consider increasing the cabinet DC outlet size if you aren't happy with the collection efficiency inside the cabinet. With the open front there's no shortage of venting but the small port won't extract a huge volume. Easy to upsize if it proves that you need to.