[RainMan 2.0]

That’s an awesome looking setup Paul . Looks like your hooked like the rest of us lol

 

[wagspe208]

Here's some more. ...wasn't sure how many I could load at one time. I used a gear puller for the screw adjustment. I think it raises .050" per turn. The green plastic that the screw rests in is some high density industrial plastic. Using that under the lift means I don't need a lube for the top of the ball on the screw.
In the next to the last image, you can see a curved 1/4" plate against the router. It contains 3 set screws. Those set screws inset into 3 hole I lightly drilled into the router body. When the router is set in place, it locks into those protruding set screws. Once the router is positioned, I screw on that funky looking aluminum plate you saw in the first batch of images.

On the right side of the lift is a long screw to lock the router once the height adjustment is made.
Only drawback so far is I probably should have allowed another inch of router travel.
....................that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.

What do you do when you need to remove your harmonic balancer?
:smile:

 

[LeftFinger]

Home made table recycled stand

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

I'm almost finished with my latest table and I thought I would post how I set up my remote switch. I made the table with the hole offset to one side so that I could be close to the fence for small parts on one side or stand on the other side and have extra room for wide panels. This meant that a remote switch couldn't be mounted under the table, it had to be above and capable of facing either way so the only option for that was fence mounted. I bought a magnetic paddle switch and tried that but the switch turned out to be defective (more on that later) so I switched to a common light switch in a water proof box.
The box I had built in the fence to allow for dust collection turned out to be just the right width for the outdoor electrical box. All I had to do was use thin plywood to extend the sides up and add strips on the inside to trap the ears on the electrical box. The box simply lifts up and out so that I can turn the fence around to face the other way. The photos show that I used a surface mount box on the router cabinet side and I used an old extension cord for a wire going to it and that gave me a built in extension cord for the table at about 15' long. Another piece of the cord runs from the plug in box to the switch box and when the switch turns on it energizes the plug ins. I've been able to run both my M12V2 and my shop vac at the same time from that box so the switch turns both on simultaneously.
So far I'm really liking having the switch on the fence. There is no fumbling around guessing where it is, I can see it and it's inches away from where my hands are so I think this is a better solution than an under table mount. The paddle switch I bought came from Powertec through Amazon. They refunded my money for the switch but I'm still out the shipping. There is nowhere locally to buy one. Powertec never responded to two emails of my asking for advice to see if something else could be tried to make it work. The switch turns the router on but it won't stay on unless I'm holding the start button down. The magnetic part is defective. It's not a total loss. I turned the switch around in the frame so that the start button is under the paddle and I added a bolt through the paddle to contact the switch and I'll eventually use it on my drill press as a hands free dead man's switch. My advice is don't buy this switch through mail order.

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Great idea having the switch stalk mounted like that Charles . I never would have thought of that

 

[Old_Tom]

I am in the process (LONG PROCESS!!!) of building my table. I started with a home made table top on a mitre saw stand, but found it a little high and a bit too much movement. I have also made fittings for three of my routers at different times, but got the Triton TRA001 and it will have a permanent home mounted in the table.
I suppose you understand why I haven't finished it yet after six months!!!!
Cheers.

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

Good job so far Tom. It looks like all you need is a fence and you are ready to rout.

 

[DesertRatTom]

Man, this is an old string, 2009. But it has some great posts and wonderful ideas. Worth a review now and again.

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Man, this is an old string, 2009. But it has some great posts and wonderful ideas. Worth a review now and again.

I’d certainly hope the pics keep a coming . My fav thread by far

 

[Old_Tom]

Good job so far Tom. It looks like all you need is a fence and you are ready to rout.

Hi Charles. Not quite but it is useable now at least!

 

[Old_Tom]

Hi Guys. I got the router table finished, except for a kick of clear and a fence. I have a dust collector hose fitted to the output port on the Triton Router which exits at the rear of the table. There will also be a "Y" fitting on the rear tube with a hose from the DC fitting on the fence.
Don't look too hard; you might just see some of my build mistakes:surprise:wink:. Not bad for a first effort me feels. It will do the job nicely!
Cheers.

 

[Old_Tom]

Finally got the fence completed! :grin:

 

[Stick486]

nice work...

 

[mr happymoose]

I've got to stop looking at this thread, it's making me feel very inadequate

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Awesome looking setup Tom. I’m kicking myself for not building my own

 

[DaninVan]

Great build, Tom! You might want to consider increasing the cabinet DC outlet size if you aren't happy with the collection efficiency inside the cabinet. With the open front there's no shortage of venting but the small port won't extract a huge volume. Easy to upsize if it proves that you need to.

 

[Old_Tom]

Great build, Tom! You might want to consider increasing the cabinet DC outlet size if you aren't happy with the collection efficiency inside the cabinet. With the open front there's no shortage of venting but the small port won't extract a huge volume. Easy to upsize if it proves that you need to.

The DC size is a restriction of the port size on my shop vac. For the under table dust collection it draws directly off the collection port on the Triton router (indicated in the photo), not from in the actual cabinet. I left the cabinet front open for air cooling and venting for the router.


Thanks guys. I appreciate the comments. Yes it is satisfying to get it to this stage........nothing is ever finished though

 

[DaninVan]

Makes perfect sense, Tom.

 

[Silverdog]

My last effort on the subject: Rotala, an electronic controlled router table that will be presented at the Rome Maker Faire 2019
This is just a preview , the project still needs a lot of documentation and v3 is a rendering for the moment ... I'm waiting for the metal parts to be delivered from the laser cut service.
https://www.tanzolab.it/rotalapanel_Specifications
Software development (Open source) https://github.com/SergioSubrizi/rotala-panel-master runs on Raspberry PI with touch Screen
Hardware design will be realesed with Creative Commons Licence
The mechanics consists in a trunion slide mechanism fence and height are stepper motor controlled, titling + and - 45° is visualized with extreme precision but manually operated.
Here some tests of the software:

 

[David Bradford]

Got this table partly done a few years ago then had it in storage. Bringing it out and going to finish it now.