Wanted! pictures of your router table!

628509 Views 1153 Replies 385 Participants Last post by FreeTime, 10 mo ago

Old_Chipper

Discussion Starter · Oct 25, 2009

Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me.

So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.

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IWLOCAL21

· #101 · Dec 14, 2009

still a little work to do on it but we are on and running!

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timbertailor

· #102 · Dec 14, 2009

Mike Gager said:
mines nothing special but its big

View attachment 30881

I like the size of the top and the finish of the whole thing. Gives it a clean look.

Mike Gager

· #103 · Dec 14, 2009

TwoSkies57 said:
Mike...

as long as your happy with it.... thats all that matters....

yeah i like the size and height, im not real happy with the router plate, i need to get a different one and i wish i had more drawer space but i plan on fixing that one of these days

AxlMyk

· #104 · Dec 14, 2009

Here's my cheap table. Goes together in a few seconds, and is ready to go.

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Loco-Motion

· #105 · Dec 15, 2009

Great looking angle iron fence Jason. I think that i will borrow that idea, if you don't mind. What kind of wood is that table top?

Duane867

· #106 · Dec 15, 2009

AxlMyk said:
Here's my cheap table. Goes together in a few seconds, and is ready to go.

That scares the crap out of me just looking at it, but if it works for you its good to go I reckon LOL !

IWLOCAL21

· #107 · Dec 15, 2009

Have at it Buck, just as long as you give it back lol. The top and fence are 3/4 solid oak, I also bolted 1 1/2" x 1/4" angle underneath the outside perimeter for extra stability and clamping purposes. I then applied 4 coats of clear gloss lacquer for the finish. Just got done making transition threasholds from kitchen to living and it's working quite well! However I have noticed many people use MDF or some other material for thier top.

BigJimAK

· #108 · Dec 15, 2009

Duane867 said:
That scares the crap out of me just looking at it, but if it works for you its good to go I reckon LOL !

You should see Mike's work, Duane. Very impressive.

Tuuek

· #109 · Dec 15, 2009

WoW I am a little late to the thread and after going thru the pages with all the different style of router tables Im amazed. Like the Old Chipper's son I am looking to build a table for my shop and here I have found a wealth of different designs. Thanks OC and everyone that posted.

Benny LaBaw

· #110 · Dec 16, 2009

James san, thank you for your idea.
I used table like image #1 for long tome.
But your idea is very useful...and pleasing or enjoyable...

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AxlMyk

· #111 · Dec 16, 2009

Thanks Jim;

Just to let you all know, that is a piece of styrofoam I set on the router. I don't really use it.

ross.anderson

· #112 · Dec 21, 2009

So as I've been studying all the pictures in this thread, I'm thinking I might be up for making my own table rather than buying one (Thank you to everyone who has posted, this is a very informative thread). The structure and the tabletop seem straight forward to me. The part I'm not sure about is how to build a fence that is adjustable. I've seen a bunch of pictures with groves cut through the top, and adjustment bolts coming out to allow it to move. Are these off the shelf products, or home made as well? Just seems like it would be difficult to get something to sit still with just a notch in the wood, or is there a metal rail or something that is underneath and I just can't see in the pictures? Just trying to feel out the options for that.

BrianS

· #113 · Dec 21, 2009

ross.anderson said:
The part I'm not sure about is how to build a fence that is adjustable. I've seen a bunch of pictures with groves cut through the top, and adjustment bolts coming out to allow it to move. Are these off the shelf products, or home made as well? QUOTE]

Ross, you're making this far too complicated. A fence can be any wooden straight edge.. make it long enough to reach the edges of the table and hold it in place with a couple of small c clamps. You don't need the fancy groves, t-tracks or adjusting bolts, etc. Those can come later, after you have used your table for a while and get an idea what you actually need to accomplish what you want.

Duane867

· #114 · Dec 21, 2009

AxlMyk said:
Thanks Jim;

Just to let you all know, that is a piece of styrofoam I set on the router. I don't really use it.

It's to late Mike. your secret is out. There is no going back now.
Just own it.

HA HAHAHAHAHAHAAAAA !!

Duane867

· #115 · Dec 21, 2009 (Edited)

Hi Ross,

IMHO You're best bet is to make a split fence.
All you need is a piece of 90 degree angled aluminum ( or make your own from hard wood ), a hack saw, drill, T track, carriage bolts, T- bolts, and MDF.
Its the easiest thing in the world to build. It just sounds intimidating is all.

Think of it like the side of the fence closest to you on a table saw sled.
Its basically A long board on end tall enough to pass over the blade with enough height up top allow enough material left to keep it securely together after it passes over the blade. Only difference is the opening will be larger, you'll have 90 degree cleets on the back for support, and two pieces of sacrificial MDF with terminated, through slots routed into them so they can slide to and fro on the fence.
The out feed side sacrificial MDF will be held on with slightly longer bolts so that you can use shims to joint.

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timbertailor

· #116 · Dec 21, 2009

ross.anderson said:
The part I'm not sure about is how to build a fence that is adjustable. I've seen a bunch of pictures with groves cut through the top, and adjustment bolts coming out to allow it to move. Are these off the shelf products, or home made as well? Just seems like it would be difficult to get something to sit still with just a notch in the wood, or is there a metal rail or something that is underneath and I just can't see in the pictures? Just trying to feel out the options for that.

Several mfg's make rail systems that work great for what you are trying to do. Kreg, Woodpecker, and Rockler come to mind.

Most have two parallel rails that allow the fences to be moved independently or together, depending on how you make your fence. They bolt from the underside of the top to all but eliminate the possibility of tear out.

I suggest building a split fence that also accomodates large bits and the mounting of feather boards. Lots of photos here and on the internet to give you an idea of what you may want.

Good Luck and keep us posted on your progress.

the_nite_owl

· #117 · Dec 21, 2009

ross.anderson said:
So as I've been studying all the pictures in this thread, I'm thinking I might be up for making my own table rather than buying one (Thank you to everyone who has posted, this is a very informative thread). The structure and the tabletop seem straight forward to me. The part I'm not sure about is how to build a fence that is adjustable. I've seen a bunch of pictures with groves cut through the top, and adjustment bolts coming out to allow it to move. Are these off the shelf products, or home made as well? Just seems like it would be difficult to get something to sit still with just a notch in the wood, or is there a metal rail or something that is underneath and I just can't see in the pictures? Just trying to feel out the options for that.

I built mine with a piece of melamine for the bottom, MDF for the face. T-Track in the table for it to clamp down to. 45 deg wedges behind the face to firm it up against the melamine and make it solid.
On the face I glued a layer of MDF across the top and added some t-track into it for accessories. Below that I left clearance for the sliding fence and added t-track there as well. I use that piece of t-track to hold the sliding fence in place with flat head screws counter sunk into the face. I feel it gives a firmer flatter hold on the sliding fence than trying to have grooves and back side mounted knobs to tighten it down.

My biggest problem is that the melamine slides across the formica table top too well and no matter how hard I crank down those knobs it slips on me. I will probably get a very fine grit sandpaper and some spray adhesive and apply it to the bottom of the fence so it will grip better.

This is my very first attempt and I am a newbie but reading on here and looking at a lot of other peoples tables made it alot easier.
My table is two layers of 3/4" MDF glued together with formica top and bottom. I edged the sides with hard maple, added a WoodPecker plate, t-track for the fence to ride on and a combo t-track/miter slot track near the front.
You can see on the fence I have also set it up with dust collection. I just recently boxed in the router and added dust collection to the box for down drafting from the table top. I still have to add the power switch but I have one ready, just have to make a mounting plate for it to go on the steel frame I have the table top sitting on.

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tdsapp

· #118 · Dec 22, 2009

Here is my table... Right now it sets on a couple saw horses when I need it. After Christmas I am going to be working on a bench for the shop and then it will go into the bench.

It's two 3/4" MDF sheets glued together and then routed for the T-rails and miter guide. I did not cover it with any laminate or anything... It has several coats of a hard poly to make the surface slick. It has worked great for me so far.

The fence I made myself as well. It's from a design I saw in a magazine that is just for routers... One of the "Router Secrets" magazines.

Tim

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dawziecat

· #119 · Dec 24, 2009

Mine is a "work in progress."

It ain't gonn'a be pretty but I hope it will be functional. I just put a phenolic plate into the top of an existing workbench. I have routed a track along the edge of the bench for featherboards. Tracks for a fence are next.

Pics at Photography of Terry Danks-Woodworking

The tracks I am using are ones from Busy Bee: Busy Bee Tools Product Detail

Uses standard 1/4" - 20 hex bolts
3/4" x 3/8" requires 3/4" material for flush mount

Does anyone know if there are miter gauges made to fit small tracks like these? I would like to make a sled for doing cabinet rails but am unsure if I should be using tracks like these. They seem smaller than "standard" table saw tracks.

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timbertailor

· #120 · Dec 24, 2009

dawziecat said:
Mine is a "work in progress."

It ain't gonn'a be pretty but I hope it will be functional. I just put a phenolic plate into the top of an existing workbench. I have routed a track along the edge of the bench for featherboards. Tracks for a fence are next.

Pics at Photography of Terry Danks-Woodworking

The tracks I am using are ones from Busy Bee: Busy Bee Tools Product Detail

Uses standard 1/4" - 20 hex bolts
3/4" x 3/8" requires 3/4" material for flush mount

Does anyone know if there are miter gauges made to fit small tracks like these? I would like to make a sled for doing cabinet rails but am unsure if I should be using tracks like these. They seem smaller than "standard" table saw tracks.

I am not sure if there is miter gauge made for the smaller track.

I would suggest laying down two tracks. One small and one for a miter gauge, just in case.

Woodpeckers sells them. I am sure Rockler does too!!!

Looks like a good use of space and you will never be lacking in table top space.

What do you plan to use for a fence?

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