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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys. My query is similar to rh111's about bench saw blades. I've just become the proud owner of a Ryobi compound mitre saw but need some advice on blades. The timber I often use is straight grained but can be coarse and suffers from tear-out on the surface. What tpi on a blade should I be looking at to minimize this? Is there a rule-of-thumb?
 

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Hi Geordie

I recommend one or the other blades below, and I like the Freud over the CMT.it's a bit sharper,they are both 10" and cut real clean,they are about the same price .

http://www.mikestools.com/productinfo.aspx?productID=206.060.10&affid=6

http://www.shop.com/op/~Freud_10_In...de_LU74R010-prod-22536479-30490706?sourceid=3


Just a NOTE*** 10" compound mitre saw are underpowered saws. :) unlike the 12" and 14".... :)
I do recommend 12" compound mitre saws ,because you some times need the extra 2" to make the hard cuts like a compound mitre cut on 6" molding for just one of them.

The Rule ,so to speak is the more teeth the cleaner the cut...the norm but you can over kill it when you cut 3" Oak and other hardwoods.(burn it if the blades is a bit dull)

Bj :)
 

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Blade

here is the one i use LU88 Freud LU88R Industrial Perma-SHIELD™ Coated Thin Kerf Crosscut Blades

Freud LU88R Industrial Perma-SHIELD™ Coated Thin Kerf Crosscut Blades
Freud Industrial saw blades offer all the quality that fine cabinetmakers have come to expect from Freud. MicroGrain carbide tips thick enough for several sharpenings and tri-metal brazing for impact resistance ensure long life.

• Thick MicroGrain carbide tips
• Laser cut blade bodies and expansion slots
• Kickback reducing design
• Tri-metal brazing for impact-resistant tips
• Perma-SHIELD™ coating guarantees less working friction and less resin adhesion while preventing the development of rust
• Covered by Freud's Limited Lifetime Warranty
 

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Gordie,

I think where Bj was headed was that some saws increase in power as they increase in diameter. However, 15A is the max you will find for 120V bench top tools so considering several saws with various blade diameters but all with the same motor, the smallest will have the most available "power". Gearing is also a consideration and a 15A saw with a 14" blade should be geared to turn slower than a 15A with a 10" blade so this counters some of the difference. In the end, look for the most powerful saw you can find in the diameter you are shopping and remember that 10" blades are much more economical (due to sales volume) than 12" and especially 14" blades. BTW, I second Bj's recommendation for the LU74R010 blade.
 

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Geordie, 24 tooth blades are designed for ripping wood. Your miter saw will need a minimum of a 40 tooth blade for rough carpentry and preferably an 80 tooth blade for higher quality. Since blades can often be interchanged between a miter saw and a table saw I suggest buying the 50 tooth Diablo combination blade as the minimum. I use an 80 tooth blade on my miter saw. Freud blades give excellent performance for the price, a true value.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys. You're right. The blade supplied with the saw is a 10" x 40. I checked out the Freud blades on the web and the difference is obvious even to a newbie like me. FYI the saw is 230/240V 2000 Watt (2.68 HP). Can't find a Freud supplier locally but there are Bosch 80 blades available so I'll give them a try first.
 

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You will see a tremendous difference with the 80 tooth Bosch blade Geordie. Sorry you guys dont have access to so many of the great US made products.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Del, I promise faithfully that if I don't get good performance from the Bosch blade I'll buy a Freud over the net!
 
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