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Discussion Starter #1
I need to buy a large version of a router bit style bearing. What is the correct name? I see some with NR as part of the name. I need a bearing with a 1/2" ID (Inside Diameter) and a 1 1/8" OD (Outside Diameter).
I've done internet searches but don't know what the correct terminology is.
 

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It's a lot easier to just take the number to any bearing supplier...standard numbering everywhere; cross-reference always available...unless you are engineering a specific application...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's a lot easier to just take the number to any bearing supplier...standard numbering everywhere; cross-reference always available...unless you are engineering a specific application...
Yes, it is for a specific application. I'm building a jig and the bearing is for the edge guide.
 

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Then you don't need to worry about load, pressure or speed rating...just need no play and a good seal to keep the dust out... Not knowing what you're making, have you considered a "shoe" ? More surface area, less likely than a bearing to pick up a "nook or cranny"... just thinkin'...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Then you don't need to worry about load, pressure or speed rating...just need no play and a good seal to keep the dust out... Not knowing what you're making, have you considered a "shoe" ? More surface area, less likely than a bearing to pick up a "nook or cranny"... just thinkin'...
I have a set of plans that I'm following so I didn't give any thought to other options.
 

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Whatc'ya makin'...or is it a surprise...
 

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LMAO...understood...I know the feeling...

I suspect you're using the jig for more than what a bearing guided (top or bottom) straight/spiral bit would do...?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
LMAO...understood...I know the feeling...

I suspect you're using the jig for more than what a bearing guided (top or bottom) straight/spiral bit would do...?
It's primary use is to flush cut the applied shelf edging, or in this case wood counter edging. The use of a bearing guided bit would require balancing the router on the edge or standing the piece on edge and doing it on the router table. I've seen a lot simpler set ups but I figure what the heck...give this one a try. I probably don't even need the edge guide....the author might have done it to prevent the bit from extending over the edging? George Vondriska had a real simple quick and dirty set up....maybe that's what mine will turn into.
 

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It's primary use is to flush cut the applied shelf edging, or in this case wood counter edging. The use of a bearing guided bit would require balancing the router on the edge or standing the piece on edge and doing it on the router table. I've seen a lot simpler set ups but I figure what the heck...give this one a try. I probably don't even need the edge guide....the author might have done it to prevent the bit from extending over the edging? George Vondriska had a real simple quick and dirty set up....maybe that's what mine will turn into.
Got it...sounds like you've picked a good approach...let us know how it all works out...pictures are always good...
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Of course there's the other way of trimming the edge flush with the top...
A Jig for Precision Trimming - Popular Woodworking Magazine
The jig I am making is the same basic design and works the same way. The plans I have make a jig that is larger and holds a full size router and has the front bearing that rides along the front edge of the edge banding piece. The bearing is probably overkill but maybe there was method to the designer's madness. The whole jig is probably overkill and could have been made out of scrap. The bearing is the most expensive part of the jig.
 

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The jig I am making is the same basic design and works the same way. The plans I have make a jig that is larger and holds a full size router and has the front bearing that rides along the front edge of the edge banding piece. The bearing is probably overkill but maybe there was method to the designer's madness. The whole jig is probably overkill and could have been made out of scrap. The bearing is the most expensive part of the jig.
Hey, Jim; the style covered in the link doesn't need a bearing. It trims parallel with the bottom of the router plate. the router rides on the face of the panel, trimming anything that's proud of that face...dowel plugs, wood edging, edge laminate sticking up, etc.
Bill Hylton has a sweet little custom Acrylic base plate project in his book Router magic
https://www.amazon.ca/Router-Magic-...8&qid=1464311486&sr=8-1&keywords=router+magic
There's a pic of it on the cover of his book...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey, Jim; the style covered in the link doesn't need a bearing. It trims parallel with the bottom of the router plate. the router rides on the face of the panel, trimming anything that's proud of that face...dowel plugs, wood edging, edge laminate sticking up, etc.
Bill Hylton has a sweet little custom Acrylic base plate project in his book Router magic
https://www.amazon.ca/Router-Magic-...8&qid=1464311486&sr=8-1&keywords=router+magic
There's a pic of it on the cover of his book...
Thank You....I may order his book. The purpose of the bearing is to prevent the router bit from being moved away from the edge and back onto the laminate or whatever the table top/shelf surface is. If the bit setting is correct it should not contact the table/shelf anyway so the bearing is an extra precaution and maybe overdoing it? It's already made....it's parts cost more than the rest of the entire jig so I hope it was worth it.
 
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