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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello.
A local festool dealer told me that a router with 8mm. collet can't operate saftly a bit with long shaft and a diameter 20-25mm. I felt that he just wants to sell me an
Festool OF 1400 EBQ-PLUS with 711€. What is the biggest cylinder-shape bit with longer shaft that can be operated with an Elu mof96e?
 

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Cutter (flute) length usually no more that 4x the shank diameter.
And even if that standard is met it doesn't mean the cutter is safe.
Appreciate that these things are only supported on one end.
And, as such, subject to a lot of deflection.
Biggest cutter perhaps this one.
 

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There are some raised panel bits that were made in 1/4" shank that were meant to cut about 1/2" deep x 1 1/2" high but they should be used very carefully with numerous light passes to get to depth. I've used 3/4" in 1/4" shank but also with care and not too much depth per pass. I have broken a 1/4" shank or two in the past. 8mm has about a 30% larger cross section so I would agree with Pat that about 32mm would be the max and should be used carefully.

It does sound a bit like he was trying to part you from your money.
 

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Esko there are a lot of very good routers that run 1/2 shafts that are not Festool, Bosch, Makita, Triton, many others, variable speed, plunge and not, don't get fooled into thinking that festool are the only good ones, they are good but just not worth that price tag. NGM
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank's Pat, Charles and Neville for your information. It's easy to keep in mind that a router is a machine that has to be handled with care. It's difficult to forget sush a matter when you have a very very sharp bit spinning near your most precious at a speed of max. 27000rpm.
Even I mostly use pine I still make light passes. Propably something like 3-5mm. maximum.
I have a second machine. It's labeld Biltema. As a sheap machine, 50€ as new, it works fine in my use. I understand it can't be as good as my old Elu.
Festool and blue bosch are the most expencive. Triton is yotaly unknown here.
 

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1 PC 1 2" SH 3" Extra Long Flush Trim Router Bit | eBay

1 PC 1 4" SH 2" Blade Extra Long Flush Trim Router Bit | eBay

1 PC 1 2" SH Door Window Casing Molding Router Bit | eBay

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Hello.
A local festool dealer told me that a router with 8mm. collet can't operate saftly a bit with long shaft and a diameter 20-25mm. I felt that he just wants to sell me an
Festool OF 1400 EBQ-PLUS with 711€. What is the biggest cylinder-shape bit with longer shaft that can be operated with an Elu mof96e?
 

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Was a consultant for a major vendor with respect to your first (3" = FL) entry.
Not a pretty sight (the injury). 65,000$ for the ER and subsequent surgeries.
A long skinny bit like that is simply a loose, pit bull terrier.
Not recommended x this user.
 

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Esko, how long a bit with 8mm shaft are you wanting to use?
 

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I have use the listed items for many years and not one error with any of them..

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Was a consultant for a major vendor with respect to your first (3" = FL) entry.
Not a pretty sight (the injury). 65,000$ for the ER and subsequent surgeries.
A long skinny bit like that is simply a loose, pit bull terrier.
Not recommended x this user.
 

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Esko, I think you would be safer buying a router that will accept 1/2" shank bits.
 

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Thank's Pat, Charles and Neville for your information. It's easy to keep in mind that a router is a machine that has to be handled with care. It's difficult to forget sush a matter when you have a very very sharp bit spinning near your most precious at a speed of max. 27000rpm.
Even I mostly use pine I still make light passes. Propably something like 3-5mm. maximum.
I have a second machine. It's labeld Biltema. As a sheap machine, 50€ as new, it works fine in my use. I understand it can't be as good as my old Elu.
Festool and blue bosch are the most expencive. Triton is yotaly unknown here.
Esko there is one trick regarding that high speed cutter, as a professional then I don't mind passing this trade secret on to you, "when it is spinning then don't touch it with your fingers" do that and do the light cuts until you get the hang of it and you will be fine, Neville
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hello guys.
From your question Charles rises a new Q. I'm making lapjoints to 2x4" or 4x4" with the router. I'm having an extended base or a XL base for the router so I have enough support for it. I'd rather use some thin material but I only had 15mm water ply. To be able to make flush joints I need to go 2" down, yes? So, 15mm&2" is
about 2 1/2" or 65mm. Shurly 3mm steel plate would be a better solution.

I understand all the if's and but's (my english is funny with all the faults but I know what I am doing and I know woodworking tools. I comleted my education in 1992). At the moment I just can't walk to the store and buy everything I need. Besides tools are quite expencive here in Finland.

Thank's for all the good advices and specially I'll keep in mind not to touch the spinning bit.
 

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Hello guys.
From your question Charles rises a new Q. I'm making lapjoints to 2x4" or 4x4" with the router. I'm having an extended base or a XL base for the router so I have enough support for it. I'd rather use some thin material but I only had 15mm water ply. To be able to make flush joints I need to go 2" down, yes? So, 15mm&2" is
about 2 1/2" or 65mm. Shurly 3mm steel plate would be a better solution.

I understand all the if's and but's (my english is funny with all the faults but I know what I am doing and I know woodworking tools. I comleted my education in 1992). At the moment I just can't walk to the store and buy everything I need. Besides tools are quite expencive here in Finland.

Thank's for all the good advices and specially I'll keep in mind not to touch the spinning bit.
Esko, if the boards are based on the North American sizes then they will actually be 38mm x 89mm or 89mm x 89mm. There is a reason for this. Lumber is measured in the rough sawn condition which was a full 2 inches or 4 inches some years ago because of the crude saws used to cut lumber. Then the boards were planed to the dimensions above.

The longest bit you would need is 60mm plus the length of shank inserted into the router.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here in Finland you get what you pay for. If you buy 2x4" you get 2x4" or 50x100mm. I just spoke with a man who sells timber/lumber. Here the mill must count extra when they saw wood. So when the wood shrinks when it will get dry the dimensiones are just that what you think they are/it is. When I buy 2x7" it is just that and not 44x160 or something else.
Before I start routing I measure the piece so I know. But. This is basic woodworking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hello.
Your reply to the measures got me thinking Charles an I found something.
"Lumber is measured in the rough sawn condition..."
Same here. It's someware here: http://www.smy.fi/smy/Materiaalitdeve.nsf/Images/261B800BB3A6C101C2257132003B0C13/$file/PuustaJalosteeksi0_new.pdf
But basicly: In structures the tolerance of the measures in 20% humidity are -1...+3mm.
(Rakenteissa käytettävän sahatavaran sallitut mittapoikkeamat 20 % kosteudessa ovat –1...+3 mm tai –2...+4 mm, jos nimellismitta on yli 100 mm [SFS-EN 336]. Sahatavarastandardin SFS-EN 1313-1 mukaan sallitut mittapoikkeamat ovat –1...+3 mm tai –1...+4 mm, jos nimellismitta on yli 100 mm.) So if I buy 50x100mm it can be at minimum either 49x99mm. or 53x103mm.

"Then the boards were planed..."
If I buy planed 2x4"/50x100mm I could as well burn money in a stow. I would get one meter of 45x95mm. for 2.39 euros.
 

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I should have considered you might measure differently. In our building code Imperial measure is listed as "nominal" measure and would be the rough sawn measure. However, when it lists metric measure it is in the actual dimension of 38 x 89mm for example. I'll be glad when we stop mixing the two systems together.
 
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