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I am just a beginner, trying to make some very basic furniture, main reason to get 1/2' collet powerful router was to be able to make all those nice bells and whistles, which make furniture look great)). I like American style of wood furniture (no surprise, it is a great combination of different styles).
Привет N/A and welcome to the forums....

We can take some of that newness off of ya..
head over to this link for a bit of education on routering and it's accessories...

feel free to ask any and all questions that you may have...
enjoy!!!
 
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I drove through Watts (accidentally!) in 1968. I got some very strange looks.
rumor control says that's the norm everywhere...
 
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@salavat...
can you tell us what brands you have available and try to reverse engineer what you need...
if you have a design in mind we can come up w/ something...

Freud, CMT and Amana will come out of the European market and more than likely be metric...
 

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CMT are very good bits...
But, here, their customer service leaves a lot to be desired...

I don't know Dimar..
 

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DIMAR and CMT make both Imperial and Metric.
* I have easy access to both DIMAR and CMT here in Canada. I have both and have no complaints with either brand.
As Salavat pointed out, and was previously discussed here, CMT's less expensive line isn't made in Italy anymore. :(
after extensive VOE w/ bits made ''elsewhere''.... I'd steer clear of them because of prior experiences...
 

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As for type of furniture - I like a lot classic line of Restoration Hardware
the are some beautiful pieces...
bits should be problem...
 

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@salavat...

Как Вас зовут?
 

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Stick mentioned staying away from foreign manufacturers,
guess I need to be blunt...
make that cheap outta china bits...
every bit from China I found to have one or more issue(s)...

poor QC...
Balance... out of balance bits are rough on the router...
poor brazing.. you can ask my ear about that...
softer carbide.. short production life due to dulling...
fragile.. carbide chipping/breaking when hitting a dense knot..
two piece construction.. body to shank which under duress would separate...
same part number/same manufacturer/same profile... but one bit to the next won't/doesn't match..
dia aren't as advertised...
no CS to speak of...
to name a few...

LV does the specs and QC on their bits...
also the last I knew they were made in Taiwan...

we also discussed the differences between in Amana Israel and Amana china finger joint bits

point...
An Amana FJ bit made in Israel is a long lasting quality bit....
the same brand/bit/profile made in china doesn't last but hours and the china made profile doesn't match the Israeli made profile...
same price too... about 170$ at the time...
same thing w/ CMT bits too
and don't get me started om chinese MCLS bits...

Remember..
I wasn't a hobbyist....
if it cost me... it got dumped...

while in business I did spread sheets on what came into the shop...

I factored in a lot of things..

initial cost.. (tangible)
support cost.. (intangible)..
safety...
CS... did the product's manufacturer stand behind the item..
quality..
performance.. did it do it's job well..
longevity..
availability..

initial cost.. (tangible)
OTC/delivered into my hand...

support cost.. (intangible)..
cost/time to get it warrantied if need be...
a carry back to the seller or postage and the trip to the post office isn't free...
cost/time of related down time..
cost/time of damage repair..
cost/time of a connected call back...
cost/time of related down time and job set back...
cost/time of rework because of

all of this relates in unit LF...
(unit cost ÷ LF)

I think Whiteside bits are better than equivalent Freud bits fresh out of the box..
but...
Freud stayed in production the longest..
Freud beat Whiteside in unit cost..
CMT bits are very good but fall short in support by a long ways...

every bit from China I found to have one or more issue(s)...

poor QC...
Balance... out of balance bits are rough on the router...
poor brazing.. you can ask my ear about that...
softer carbide.. short production life due to dulling...
fragile.. carbide chipping/breaking when hitting a dense knot..
two piece construction.. body to shank which under duress would separate...
same part number/same manufacturer/same profile... but one bit to the next won't/doesn't match..
bottom line, china was very expensive no matter how little was paid for a product from there...

NOTE:
there is a lot of knock offs and counterfeits coming out of china...
something they're virtually infamous for...

.
 

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