[TenGees]

My router was sitting on metal legs with one shelf where I had boxes of bits, the router wrenches and inserts etc. This was always buried in the sawdust that I hadn't breathed in. So I figured it was time to do something... the router table was my dirtiest tool.

I didn't take pictures of the build but it's basically a Norm Abram's design adapted to fit my top (came with my Incra plate). If you're interested in making one, Creston Wood (Don Phalen) has a free PDF (and Sketchup 8 files) available on his site: Ultimate Router Table He also has pics of the build steps. (No it's not THAT woodworking-plans guy.)

I made mine mostly from scraps around the shop except the faces and made four drawers and four bit holders and doors at the bottom. I just used hardboard panels for the doors and the backs of the compartments but I used a plexi one for the router door (like the REAL one). I made four different drawings on the computer to mark the holes for the bit holders.

Fence:
I still need to make a new fence but that might wait, the one I have works okay but I'd like a taller one with adjustable faces and easy featherbord and stops. Maybe similar to the one in the plans but probably a longer track.

The fence locks that I added work very well so I'll use them again on the new fence.

Levelling:
The feet on mine are just lag screws with the heads tapped into stopped holes in wood disks. Contact cement holds rubber sheet on the bottoms of the disks. My floor isn't very even so the adjustment is necessary to take the rocking out. I start with the lags screwed right into blocks added to the bottom and then back out which ones need it.

Dust:
I only have a pair of shop-vacs for dust collection in my garage. I have a 2-1/2 inch hose from one going into a little box at the back of the table from which I'm running two 1-1/4 inch hoses. One to the fence and one to the router port. I'm not sure how effective it will be but it should be a big improvement over just a face mask... I hope. Still working on that part, which won't really be finished until I make my new fence. By then I should know if that system works or if I should start over.

Blooper:
I already made a cabinet in the same fashion (see pics) and plan on making more in the same cheap style. I put stopped 1/2 coves in the bottom of the drawer faces for my fingers (no knobs needed).

You didn't notice where I had to rout the corner out of one drawer face so it would pass by the light switch covers did you? Didn't think so.

 

[Stick486]

that is some major squared away Paul...

 

[RainMan 2.0]

Great job on the router table build Paul

 

[honesttjohn]

That was a major project. You did better than good!!

 

[old55]

Awesome job Paul.

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

That's really similar in design to my latest one Paul except I put large drawers at the bottom to hold my routers. Now you have me wondering if I should have put doors on instead.

 

[Herb Stoops]

Good job, Paul, that is a bunch of work there,looks real professional too.
Herb

 

[Multiwood]

Excellent build Paul. You will get a lot of use out of it.

 

[woodworker47]

Paul,

Excellent build. I also used this same design. As Charles stated, I put a drawer in the bottom instead of doors. I also used a piece of plexiglass for the opening instead of a door. I like your door design.

Frank

 

[Danman1957]

Nice work Paul,
I have all the cut parts on a workbench and need to dado them and then assemble. As Chuck stated, I like the idea of the doors instead of drawers at the bottom. I might modify my plans.
cheers, Dan

 

[sreilly]

Paul that turned out great. I did this project last year but used Woodpeckers Super Fence and a Router II lift from JessEm. Best shop project to date. I also built by the plans putting 3 drawers in the bottom for accessories and additional routers. Between this build and the rack of bits I have mounted on the wall it's all in one place. I also added the lift style wheels to make it mobile for long wood. Hooked up to my CV1800 DC and I get zero sawdust in the router chamber or on the top. The fence has a 4" to 2.5" dc hose connection and the chamber has a direct 4". I'm amazed at how well this system works. I had offered to have my rescue squad buddy build his at the same time but he passed on the offer and has been kicking himself since. I also have recently added the Micro Adjust after trying to do raised panel doors and the drawer lock miter joints. Really helps me zero in on the exact depth for these cuts.

https://www.astral-imaging.com/woodworking_shop6.htm

Now I really need to start putting some finish on these things.............not my favorite part and can't get my bride interested in doing it either. Oh well.

 

[harrysin]

Excellent job Paul, the only difference that I would have made would be to have more clearance at the bottom for feet to go which prevents leaning over.

 

[TenGees]

...I did this project last year...

Your's blows mine away! Nice job.

 

[TenGees]

Excellent job Paul, the only difference that I would have made would be to have more clearance at the bottom for feet to go which prevents leaning over.

This is quite a bit higher than what I had, Harry. There are just blocks screwed on the bottom corners for the lag screw levellers. They could be easily changed and might have to be... my back has been a little stiff lately.

 

[TenGees]

Thanks for all the nice comments, guys. It should be a big improvement from what I had. The investment was very little more than time. So for the price I'm quite pleased with the results.

 

[TenGees]

That's really similar in design to my latest one Paul except I put large drawers at the bottom to hold my routers. Now you have me wondering if I should have put doors on instead.

Chuck, I think that drawers might be less bending. One advantage of the doors though, is that it's easy to put in shelves to fit your needs. The doors are cheaper to make... that's an advantage to a guy like me.

 

[Bushwhacker]

Very nice job Paul. Beautifully done.

 

[DaninVan]

Richly deserved compliments, Paul; it's a beauty!
I'm assuming you have a slope on your garage floor (1/8" per Ft.). It's a p.i.t.a for shop purposes.
Levelers are pretty straight forward but castoring is another story.

 

[TenGees]

...I also used a piece of plexiglass for the opening instead of a door. I like your door design...

Frank, I have to get at the locking lever and the spindle lock on that router. So it was a necessity... I'll be in there all the time. I was making doors already so it wasn't a big deal to make that door but the dado was different for the plexi than for the hardboard. I put a magnet catch at the top and an adjustable stop block at the bottom.

 

[TenGees]

...I'm assuming you have a slope on your garage floor (1/8" per Ft.). It's a p.i.t.a for shop purposes.
Levelers are pretty straight forward but castoring is another story.

Mine's similar to a ski slope in parts, Dan. There's a corner that has settled. I built a shop cart with casters, tools will roll off in some parts of the garage.