My router was sitting on metal legs with one shelf where I had boxes of bits, the router wrenches and inserts etc. This was always buried in the sawdust that I hadn't breathed in. So I figured it was time to do something... the router table was my dirtiest tool.
I didn't take pictures of the build but it's basically a Norm Abram's design adapted to fit my top (came with my Incra plate). If you're interested in making one, Creston Wood (Don Phalen) has a free PDF (and Sketchup 8 files) available on his site: Ultimate Router Table He also has pics of the build steps. (No it's not THAT woodworking-plans guy.)
I made mine mostly from scraps around the shop except the faces and made four drawers and four bit holders and doors at the bottom. I just used hardboard panels for the doors and the backs of the compartments but I used a plexi one for the router door (like the REAL one). I made four different drawings on the computer to mark the holes for the bit holders.
Fence:
I still need to make a new fence but that might wait, the one I have works okay but I'd like a taller one with adjustable faces and easy featherbord and stops. Maybe similar to the one in the plans but probably a longer track.
The fence locks that I added work very well so I'll use them again on the new fence.
Levelling:
The feet on mine are just lag screws with the heads tapped into stopped holes in wood disks. Contact cement holds rubber sheet on the bottoms of the disks. My floor isn't very even so the adjustment is necessary to take the rocking out. I start with the lags screwed right into blocks added to the bottom and then back out which ones need it.
Dust:
I only have a pair of shop-vacs for dust collection in my garage. I have a 2-1/2 inch hose from one going into a little box at the back of the table from which I'm running two 1-1/4 inch hoses. One to the fence and one to the router port. I'm not sure how effective it will be but it should be a big improvement over just a face mask... I hope. Still working on that part, which won't really be finished until I make my new fence. By then I should know if that system works or if I should start over.
Blooper:
I already made a cabinet in the same fashion (see pics) and plan on making more in the same cheap style. I put stopped 1/2 coves in the bottom of the drawer faces for my fingers (no knobs needed).
You didn't notice where I had to rout the corner out of one drawer face so it would pass by the light switch covers did you? Didn't think so.
I didn't take pictures of the build but it's basically a Norm Abram's design adapted to fit my top (came with my Incra plate). If you're interested in making one, Creston Wood (Don Phalen) has a free PDF (and Sketchup 8 files) available on his site: Ultimate Router Table He also has pics of the build steps. (No it's not THAT woodworking-plans guy.)

I made mine mostly from scraps around the shop except the faces and made four drawers and four bit holders and doors at the bottom. I just used hardboard panels for the doors and the backs of the compartments but I used a plexi one for the router door (like the REAL one). I made four different drawings on the computer to mark the holes for the bit holders.




Fence:
I still need to make a new fence but that might wait, the one I have works okay but I'd like a taller one with adjustable faces and easy featherbord and stops. Maybe similar to the one in the plans but probably a longer track.
The fence locks that I added work very well so I'll use them again on the new fence.


Levelling:
The feet on mine are just lag screws with the heads tapped into stopped holes in wood disks. Contact cement holds rubber sheet on the bottoms of the disks. My floor isn't very even so the adjustment is necessary to take the rocking out. I start with the lags screwed right into blocks added to the bottom and then back out which ones need it.
Dust:
I only have a pair of shop-vacs for dust collection in my garage. I have a 2-1/2 inch hose from one going into a little box at the back of the table from which I'm running two 1-1/4 inch hoses. One to the fence and one to the router port. I'm not sure how effective it will be but it should be a big improvement over just a face mask... I hope. Still working on that part, which won't really be finished until I make my new fence. By then I should know if that system works or if I should start over.


Blooper:
I already made a cabinet in the same fashion (see pics) and plan on making more in the same cheap style. I put stopped 1/2 coves in the bottom of the drawer faces for my fingers (no knobs needed).



You didn't notice where I had to rout the corner out of one drawer face so it would pass by the light switch covers did you? Didn't think so.