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What router plate do you recommend

6.8K views 26 replies 15 participants last post by  Mike  
#1 ·
I'm planning to build a router table and see that people recommend putting in a router plate. I'm wondering which one people recommend. Most appear to be around $50, but I saw some people talking about a Harbor Freight one for $20. I have a Bosch 1617 EVS router.
Does it really matter which one you get? Can you make one yourself?
Thanks
Todd
 
#2 ·
I don't use a router plate. It can cause position errors between the router and the fence, so I build my router table top with without an insert. The top is hinged across the back so that I can tilt it up when router access/bit replacement is needed. A swing-up support stick holds the top up when 2 handed access is necessary.

CharleyL
 
#3 ·
Hey Todd,
I've built two router tables and I bought a router plate from Sears.. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...e=Power+Tool+Accessories&sName=Router+Tables+&+Attachments&keyword=router+plate
It has been ok but since my recent router table build...using the same plate.. I really want a different one... why?
Well this one has a molded numbers (ie. tape measure) on both sides which I thought would have been of some use... NOT. The only thing that they have done for me now is that they sometimes catch the wood as it tries to glide over the plate. Plus I had to make my own center rings to take up some space around the different size bits.
So anyway... I've been looking at the phenolic plates again but with a smooth surface or an aluminum plate. The only thing that I've seen with most plates is that they need to have a center ring that has the inset of 1 3/16 to allow for the brass inserts that usually come in that size. The one from HF has a 1 1/4 inset so I don't know the issue that it may have. Everyone talks about sagging in the phenolic plates but mine has lasted for 3 years with "very little" if any sag so.... do I pay more for an aluminum plate?????
I thought about making my own plate but by the time I cut the center, make centering rings, drill mounting holes, drill adjusting holes etc..etc... I'm better off buying one.

Well that is where I am right now. I'm going to the woodworking show the 20th in Charlotte NC so I can see some first hand and make up my mind.

Pamer
 
#9 · (Edited)
i bought the plate from MLCS it was $34.95 shipped and it seems to be pretty nice. i probably would have gotten the harbor freight plate but i would have had to order it and with shipping there wouldnt have been that much of a price difference

from the picture of the harbor freight version they appear to be the same plate

does the harbor freight plate have concentric rings on the underside and a 1/4 rabbeted edge?
 
#11 ·
HI Mike

" does the harbor freight plate have concentric rings on the underside and a 1/4 rabbeted edge? " = yes

The nice thing about HF, they have stores all over the place so you need to just pick it up and save the freight charge :) but you don't get your free item, online orders only ..


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#10 ·
Todd, just my two cents worth...but I have always been leary about Harbor Freight goods. Can't quite put my finger on it. Me, I would spend the extra $20-$30 and get a quality plate. You might save that much money in the long run just on the tylenol you won't need because of the headaches from an inferior plate. Again, just my two cents. The plate from HF may just work well.
 
#14 ·
HI Mike

That will work,,bird in the hand thing :), but 20.oo for the plate and 6.oo dollars for shipping that's hard to beat.. :)

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#15 ·
Routing with Template Tom



Todd:

This may be your first router and you are doing exacly the same as I did some forty years ago, inserting it under the table. As a matter of interest that is what over 90% of router users do when they get their first router. It took me some 15 years to learn I was not getting the full potential from my router by leaving it in the table. Yes I took it out now and again to finish edges especially when the edges were curved, or I wanted to use a dovetail jig, or inserting trenches when making shelving units.
There are many projects that can be completed with greater safety awareness when it is used in the plunge mode, take time to study the use of the guides when designing your projects.
Just as a matter of interest not all routers are suitable for use in the plunge mode.

Tom (Template tom)
 
#16 ·
Todd:

This may be your first router and you are doing exacly the same as I did some forty years ago, inserting it under the table. As a matter of interest that is what over 90% of router users do when they get their first router. It took me some 15 years to learn I was not getting the full potential from my router by leaving it in the table. Yes I took it out now and again to finish edges especially when the edges were curved, or I wanted to use a dovetail jig, or inserting trenches when making shelving units.
There are many projects that can be completed with greater safety awareness when it is used in the plunge mode, take time to study the use of the guides when designing your projects.
Just as a matter of interest not all routers are suitable for use in the plunge mode.

Tom (Template tom)
Sorry I forgot to add I also have three routers set up in a permanent position in three different router tables (Two home made) I am not against the use of the router table it's just I can get more from my router when it is used in the plunge mode.
Tom

Tom
 
#18 ·
There are many different mounting plates available, many are styled after the Rousseau plate with removeable center disks.(Like one of the MLCS and HF plates) The Rousseau plate is slightly convex and patented. All the other plates should be perfectly flat. I know for a fact the Rousseau installation kit works with the HF plate. Do not trust the concentric rings for mounting, use a centering kit($5) or an inlay kit. These are the only way to be sure you are perfectly centered. I had to return one HF plate that was very out of shape, but most seem to be fine.
 
#19 ·
Thanks for everyone's opinions on this. I've gone ahead and ordered the plate from peachtree. I agree that Harbor Freight has cheap stuff, but the plate looked identical to the MLCS one. Hopefully the peachtree one will be good.
 
#21 ·
i want to say that Mike is right on with his advice about the rousseau centering kit. if i as a total novice can use the kit and get the plate centered dead on, than that says a lot about the kit.

great info Mike!
 
#23 ·
Installing the HF baseplate

I just recently picked up the HF plate. It comes with 4 magnets designed to lock the plate in place on the table. Does anyone have advice on how to properly install them? Are the leveling screws provided with the plate meant to be postioned above where the magnets are set in the table? What is the best way to secure the magnets to the table itself (mdf table)?
 
#24 ·
Hi Calvin222

Put the magnets in a plastic back and keep them for a latch for a box or doors..they are not needed..

the weight of router will keep the plate in place..if you cut to deep use some masking tape for a shim under the plate edge..

But if you still want to use the magnets,,use a forester 1/4" bit or brad point drill with a flat bottom on it and use a drop of super glue to hold them in place in the MDF..,put some masking tape on the bit, you don't want to go to deep.. :)

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#25 ·
i just finished installing mine tonight. i routed the rabbet a little deep and the leveling screws were almost all the way out before i could get it level so i decided to use the magnets. i just took a 5/16" drill bit and made a shallow hole about 1/2 the thickness of the magnets and then i took some 6 minute epoxy and put it in the holes and stuck the magnets in.

just make sure the magnets are sitting level DAMHIKT!
 
#27 ·
The easiest way to install a HF plate is to purchase the Rousseau installation kit and the centering kit to fit your router. The installation kit includes the template and a guide bushing designed to fit the PC style mounting holes. The bushing has a removeable collar so you get a perfect 3/8" lip for your plate to sit on. The centering kit has a disk (which fits snuggly into a PC style mounting hole on your plate), a 1/4" straight bar to chuck in your router and transfer screws to mark the hole locations. A light tap with a hammer to make your marks, drill, flip the plate and countersink the holes and you have a perfect installation. I feel this is money well spent.