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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, today, I got a Bosch Ogee 3 1/2" Raised Panel bit, thinking that would be perfect to go along with the Bosch Ogee Rail and Stile Bits I already have and have tried and succeeded making frames with. But, nooooooo, the opening in my Sears Craftsman router table is too small. I know I will have to take this Bosch bit back tomorrow. :(
The question is, what size should I get and what brand and will it work with the bits I already have as far as fitting inside the groove that my Rail and Stile bits make?
Should I get the bit that makes a groove in the back of the panel at the same time it makes the raised panel on the front?
Am I stuck with using the Ogee style raised panel bits? :confused:
Should I get the vertical bit and make the fence that Bj made for that purpose?
Thank you for your help, as always. :)
 

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Sandy, which router are you using and which Craftsman table? I have some ideas for you but would like to provide accurate information.
 

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Hi SANDY
Flat Panels are attractive you don't always need to put in a Raised panel.
You can also get a 2" raised panel bits but I don't recommend them.
BUT
You may want to take a look at this link below... :)
A 2 HP router will do it.

http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=2725

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mike,
My 2HP router is a Model No. 315.275000 and the Craftsman Professional Router table is Model No. 171.254831.
Any advice is appreciated.
Bj,
Yeah, that's the fence I was talking about. The one you made for the vertical bit. So, if I end up taking this 3 1/2 " bit back, I will consider this fence.
I could possibly do the raised panels on my table saw. Then, is there a way to beautify the plain edges with some edging router bits?
I'll be waiting for your replies.
Thank you so much.
 

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Hi Sandy
When you use the table saw to make a Raised Panel(s), you will need to make a jig also like the one Norm (NYWS) made but most come out looking like crap and it takes a long time to sand them down to get the saw blade/burn marks out.
But that's up to you, the router can do it quick and easy.

You don't need to make the sub fence and push block to make the panels on the router table, a tall push block will do it also but the sub fence and the push block helps from making firewood, one nick or over cut will turn a nice oak,cherry,maple stock into firewood.
Just a note *** if the panel is over 6",split the panel and glue it back up as one b/4 you make the panel cut.(just about any thing over 6" will cup/bow in time) the door frame will help but it will still cup/bow and pull the frame out of sq.

"Then, is there a way to beautify the plain edges" = the plain edges are put into the door frame so you will not see them.(the norm is 1/4" to 7/16" deep) in the frame.
The O-G door bit set will put a nice edge on the frame,then you can use a door lip/round over/? bit on the outside of the door frame.

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Bj,
Thanks for all your helpful info.
What I should have asked was, Is there any way to use some kind of router bit on the part that shows, like near the raised part.
Also, I did use flat panels for my cedar planter and they just don't do anything for me. That is why I was so excited about this bit I got. I know the raised panels would have looked beautiful.
However, where there is a will, there's a way! Right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bj :D
Yes, those are some awesomely beautiful looking bits on those urls you just gave me.
Bits, bits, and more bits, it never ends, but the more bits you get the more you want. :eek:
I sadly took that humongous raised panel bit back and shopped till I dropped for anything vertical or even 3" would probably have worked, but didn't find anything. However, a very kind salesman at Lowe's told me about another place to get tools, etc. Unfortunately, it was closed till Wednesday. So, I'm going to look then. But, it sure helps to know there is another way to make the raised panels as you've just shown me.
Thanks, Bj :sold:
 

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Hi Sandy

I would be ashamed to tell you what I have invested in router bits... :)
And I will not tell my wife hahahahahaha see would kick my butt I'm sure.
I will say it's one of the biggest investments I have in the shop.

TIP below
Don't buy a 3" panel bit yet,get a 3 1/4 HP router 1st, it takes power to spin that big bit at the right speed.
If you use your Craftsman router and try and make a OAK panel you will say I need more power ...( a Tim the Tool Man thing) hahahahaha..
The variable speed you have will slow the router down but you will also lose HP..
Routers get the HP from the RPM that's to say most do,the big 3 1/4 routers have a slow startup and variable speed built in and will give you HP at all speeds.

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Bj,
You are right, I need a 3 1/4 HP router, haha! Well, for now I'll try some other way if I don't find a vertical raised panel bit on Wednesday. This store is supposed to be cheap and like walking into a candy store (that's what the clerk said), so I can't wait!
I am very protective about my router bits, too. I am now cleaning them after each use. Is that going overboard? But they cost so much and I sure don't want to replace the ones I have so I can get some different ones. Like the one you have introduced me to today. Wow, I love that one. And the one they use on the Router Workshop on boxes, and the beading bit they use. I saw those two at HD, but they were all locked up like jewels or something and that just makes me mad. Like woodworkers are crooks or something? No way! Well, enough ranting. Back down to the shop and do something fun. I have it all swept up and now I have to mess it up.
Your secret is safe with me!
 

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Personally, I don't believe there is a such thing as goin overboard as to cleaning an maintaining your bits.

"They lock them up because wood workers drool all over them."
This is also why woodworkers have those bib aprons. ;) :D
 

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Sandy, I'm gone on vacation and just checking in. You can build yourself a horizontal router table very easy, see another recent post by me about this. A vertical panel raising bit is the way to go. Much smaller diameter, can be run faster for a smoother cut, costs less too! All you need is a piece of plywood attached to the end of a bench. I will give you better info when I get home to my computer and files.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks, Mike, I hope you have a great time on vacation!
Bj and Ken, Hmmmm, I didn't know there was a problem with rusting, hahahaha!
(Is there?)
I'm wondering now, seriously, if mineral spirits is ok to clean bits with? I don't want to make my bits worse by cleaning them with something that makes them rust. I would do a search, but I'm off to see this new candy store if you know what I mean!
Hopefully, I will come home with some new toys, I mean bits.
 

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Hi Ken
"bib aprons"
And all this time I thought it's because they called most wood workers (wood butchers) :)
But I think I like yours better (blue drool bib)
Wood workers take round wood and make it sq.wood and then in turn make it round again. :eek: endless task......and it all ends up in the fireplace after 100 years or so.

Bj :'(
 

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Sandy, mineral spirits shouldn't hurt the bits, however, if you do this every time you use them, get some 3 in 1 oil or something similar and soak the bearings in the oil. As for a "rusting" problem... again, that's why we woodworkers have those "bib aprons". ;) :D


"and it all ends up in the fireplace after 100 years or so"
No such thing as "wasted wood". :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ken,
Thanks for letting me know about soaking them in oil. Here is a stupid question for you. Do you separate the bearings from the bit (I wouldn't want to do that), or do you stick them in a little shot glass full of oil so that just the bearings are in the oil..........or......well, I am clueless how to do what you suggested.
I always get sawdust everywhere when woodworking and often think of wearing the bib aprons, but I am never happier than when I'm covered head to toe in sawdust!
hahahahaha!
At the store today, they had the bits all in an enclosed case (he told me it was unlocked), but I just looked thru the plexiglass at the very expensive bits, not wanting to drool like some people I hear about!
The vertical raised panel bit was over 60 bucks so I decided to shop around. It was more like an expensive candy store. I did get some different drum sander sizes for the drill press to help sand the saw canes I'm making so it wasn't a wasted trip.
 

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