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Thank you for the quick reply!
The groove is 1/8” deep. It’s a repair job, the cabinet doors are no longer made from Lowe’s. It’s a typical shaker frame with this convex edge profile.
Here’s more pictures of a different frame.
Those commercial doors were not made on a router.
Here is a sheet of different styles of bits and the profiles they make. But if you're making doors, you need to get a match set of door making bits. Some of these bits will work for the rails and stiles, but door panels are easier to do with a bit set for doors. Every maker has them. I use Sommerfeld Tools matching bit sets. https://www.fabricdirect.com/shop/c...le-46-unbleached-muslin-fabric-100-yard-roll/ You might also want to watch Marc Sommerfeld's videos on youtube on making panel doors. Really good technique, clear and detailed.
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Here is a very simple Shaker style set. Matched sets are best because once you set the first bit, the other or rest are exactly the same shaft length, so you don't have to reset by trial and error. It works by placing a half inch rubber grommet into the bottom of the collet so the shank bottoms out on that grommet. Grommet, not o-ring.
Where it gets more complicated is if you want a raised panel inside the door frame. That requires an additional bit or two, depending on the profile.
The doors you are showing, have been made from glued up strips of solid wood. That gives you the thickness you need to carry the profile from the frame out onto the panel.
Here is a sheet of different styles of bits and the profiles they make. But if you're making doors, you need to get a match set of door making bits. Some of these bits will work for the rails and stiles, but door panels are easier to do with a bit set for doors. Every maker has them. I use Sommerfeld Tools matching bit sets. https://www.fabricdirect.com/shop/c...le-46-unbleached-muslin-fabric-100-yard-roll/ You might also want to watch Marc Sommerfeld's videos on youtube on making panel doors. Really good technique, clear and detailed.
Here is a very simple Shaker style set. Matched sets are best because once you set the first bit, the other or rest are exactly the same shaft length, so you don't have to reset by trial and error. It works by placing a half inch rubber grommet into the bottom of the collet so the shank bottoms out on that grommet. Grommet, not o-ring.
Where it gets more complicated is if you want a raised panel inside the door frame. That requires an additional bit or two, depending on the profile.
The doors you are showing, have been made from glued up strips of solid wood. That gives you the thickness you need to carry the profile from the frame out onto the panel.
As Tom said.
If you have a close look, the groove on either side of the convex moulding is asymmetric. There are bits (see below - not shown in Tom’s sheet) which will produce a groove, but with symmetrical roundovers on either side of the groove. You have a round over on one side and a crisp edge on the other - had to be done by gluing pieces together, or with a highly customized bit on a shaper. Also, the raised panel edging is a continuation of one crisp edge, does not appear to have been made with both bits of the rail-and-style bits Tom shows (the corners are mitred, not cope-and-stick).
Looks like at best, you will be able to approximate the moulding with a router, not duplicate it.
At a pinch, you could try a diy custom scratch stock for the grooves. They are deeper than what I have managed - but then I am no expert at scratchstocks.
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Interesting how the grain pattern at the mitre corner in your last photo makes the inner part of the moulding look raised.
If you have a close look, the groove on either side of the convex moulding is asymmetric. There are bits (see below - not shown in Tom’s sheet) which will produce a groove, but with symmetrical roundovers on either side of the groove. You have a round over on one side and a crisp edge on the other - had to be done by gluing pieces together, or with a highly customized bit on a shaper. Also, the raised panel edging is a continuation of one crisp edge, does not appear to have been made with both bits of the rail-and-style bits Tom shows (the corners are mitred, not cope-and-stick).
Looks like at best, you will be able to approximate the moulding with a router, not duplicate it.
At a pinch, you could try a diy custom scratch stock for the grooves. They are deeper than what I have managed - but then I am no expert at scratchstocks.
Interesting how the grain pattern at the mitre corner in your last photo makes the inner part of the moulding look raised.
Apologies, I am being stupid, let me offer a simple alternative before the more experienced members call me out.
Once I convinced myself that the inner part of the moulding is flat, not raised, the answer presented itself.
You will have to do the bullnose before you mitre the pieces. Available in different radii, there should be one to match yours.
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Once I convinced myself that the inner part of the moulding is flat, not raised, the answer presented itself.
You will have to do the bullnose before you mitre the pieces. Available in different radii, there should be one to match yours.
Hey Jafo9, sorry about the delay. It is easier to show you than to make a sketch.
My bullnose bit was from Rockler, I think. You will notice that the grooves are much wider than your originals. It may not matter if you do a batch of doors that are all the same, but one door in a set will stand out some. Other brands may be closer to what you want, otherwise you may be able to get a sharpening service to grind top and bottom edges down.
The groove to bullnose ratio may also vary by size of bit. I only have one size, cannot remember the radius.
Thinking about it, you will probably only get what you want in 1/4” shank (like mine), which means multiple passes in order not to stress the bit. I did the sample (soft yellow pine) in two passes, you may need more. I did not quite get the height of the first groove right, yours looks like 7 mm, but you get the idea.
Set the fence flush with the maximum curvature of the bit, mark the front or back of the fence on your table, then move the fence further forward and sneak up to the mark on successive passes.
Sorry about the mess in the photo showing the profile of the resultant bullnose - the best light (gathering storm) was on my wife’s pottery and potting table.
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My bullnose bit was from Rockler, I think. You will notice that the grooves are much wider than your originals. It may not matter if you do a batch of doors that are all the same, but one door in a set will stand out some. Other brands may be closer to what you want, otherwise you may be able to get a sharpening service to grind top and bottom edges down.
The groove to bullnose ratio may also vary by size of bit. I only have one size, cannot remember the radius.
Thinking about it, you will probably only get what you want in 1/4” shank (like mine), which means multiple passes in order not to stress the bit. I did the sample (soft yellow pine) in two passes, you may need more. I did not quite get the height of the first groove right, yours looks like 7 mm, but you get the idea.
Set the fence flush with the maximum curvature of the bit, mark the front or back of the fence on your table, then move the fence further forward and sneak up to the mark on successive passes.
Sorry about the mess in the photo showing the profile of the resultant bullnose - the best light (gathering storm) was on my wife’s pottery and potting table.
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