Welcome to the forum.
Thank you for the quick reply!Hi and welcome.
1. Could you add one or more photos with the doors/drawers slightly open? It is difficult to make out which is door and which is frame. Your tape measure obscures some detail on the drawers.
2. Could you indicate on the photo what exactly you want to reproduce?
3. If possible, could you measure the depth of the groove? It looks a bit deep for the usual cock-beading.
4. Are you planning to make the doors with Cope-and stick, or some other method to hold the panel?
As Tom said.
If you have a close look, the groove on either side of the convex moulding is asymmetric. There are bits (see below - not shown in Tom’s sheet) which will produce a groove, but with symmetrical roundovers on either side of the groove. You have a round over on one side and a crisp edge on the other - had to be done by gluing pieces together, or with a highly customized bit on a shaper. Also, the raised panel edging is a continuation of one crisp edge, does not appear to have been made with both bits of the rail-and-style bits Tom shows (the corners are mitred, not cope-and-stick).
Looks like at best, you will be able to approximate the moulding with a router, not duplicate it.
At a pinch, you could try a diy custom scratch stock for the grooves. They are deeper than what I have managed - but then I am no expert at scratchstocks.
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Interesting how the grain pattern at the mitre corner in your last photo makes the inner part of the moulding look raised.
It looks like the bullnose or fingernail bit is closer to the shape I need. What’s the difference between those two bits? Sorry, to change the discussion; I’m not familiar with them.Apologies, I am being stupid, let me offer a simple alternative before the more experienced members call me out.
Once I convinced myself that the inner part of the moulding is flat, not raised, the answer presented itself.
You will have to do the bullnose before you mitre the pieces. Available in different radii, there should be one to match yours.
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Thank you for the awesome example! The only difference I see is the groves are wider than what I have. I guess I’ll have to keep searching for a bit that has smaller grooves. Maybe I can have a custom bit made to match?Hey Jafo9, sorry about the delay. It is easier to show you than to make a sketch.
My bullnose bit was from Rockler, I think. You will notice that the grooves are much wider than your originals. It may not matter if you do a batch of doors that are all the same, but one door in a set will stand out some. Other brands may be closer to what you want, otherwise you may be able to get a sharpening service to grind top and bottom edges down.
The groove to bullnose ratio may also vary by size of bit. I only have one size, cannot remember the radius.
Thinking about it, you will probably only get what you want in 1/4” shank (like mine), which means multiple passes in order not to stress the bit. I did the sample (soft yellow pine) in two passes, you may need more. I did not quite get the height of the first groove right, yours looks like 7 mm, but you get the idea.
Set the fence flush with the maximum curvature of the bit, mark the front or back of the fence on your table, then move the fence further forward and sneak up to the mark on successive passes.
Sorry about the mess in the photo showing the profile of the resultant bullnose - the best light (gathering storm) was on my wife’s pottery and potting table.
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I plan on making the doors frames myself to match. The doors are painted white with charcoal glaze in the groves. If they were going to be in different rooms, I wouldn’t mind using a different profile bit. Unfortunately, the broken cabinet is really close and I have to match it or make all new doors…Left something out. If you decide to build or match with unfinished commercial doors, then you still have to finish them to go with the other woods in the existing cabinet carcasses. This will almost certainly require having enough extra material to try weveral kinds of stains and finishes on to get the match. I think that would be easier to do if you have a cabinet shop make the doors. They will need a sample to match the finish. You have to at least mach the face frames.
Are you sure you can't salvage the existing problem door? Maybe post a picture of that door we can look at to suggest options?.