[Biagio]

Hi and welcome.

1. Could you add one or more photos with the doors/drawers slightly open? It is difficult to make out which is door and which is frame. Your tape measure obscures some detail on the drawers.
2. Could you indicate on the photo what exactly you want to reproduce?
3. If possible, could you measure the depth of the groove? It looks a bit deep for the usual cock-beading.
4. Are you planning to make the doors with Cope-and stick, or some other method to hold the panel?

 

[Biagio]

As Tom said.
If you have a close look, the groove on either side of the convex moulding is asymmetric. There are bits (see below - not shown in Tom’s sheet) which will produce a groove, but with symmetrical roundovers on either side of the groove. You have a round over on one side and a crisp edge on the other - had to be done by gluing pieces together, or with a highly customized bit on a shaper. Also, the raised panel edging is a continuation of one crisp edge, does not appear to have been made with both bits of the rail-and-style bits Tom shows (the corners are mitred, not cope-and-stick).
Looks like at best, you will be able to approximate the moulding with a router, not duplicate it.
At a pinch, you could try a diy custom scratch stock for the grooves. They are deeper than what I have managed - but then I am no expert at scratchstocks.

Interesting how the grain pattern at the mitre corner in your last photo makes the inner part of the moulding look raised.

 

[Biagio]

Apologies, I am being stupid, let me offer a simple alternative before the more experienced members call me out.
Once I convinced myself that the inner part of the moulding is flat, not raised, the answer presented itself.

You will have to do the bullnose before you mitre the pieces. Available in different radii, there should be one to match yours.

 

[Biagio]

The bullnose bit will cut both grooves at the same time as shape the bullnose.. the fingernail bit will not cut crisp grooves, and not as deep. The grooves will be too wide to look good.
Go to Leevalley.com and look up bullnose bit amongst router bits. You will not be using it in the usual way, on the edge of a board, as shown in Tom’s sheet. You will be using it in a router table, protruding up from the table. I will attempt a sketch.
Best to get a 1/2” shaft bit.

 

[Biagio]

Hey Jafo9, sorry about the delay. It is easier to show you than to make a sketch.
My bullnose bit was from Rockler, I think. You will notice that the grooves are much wider than your originals. It may not matter if you do a batch of doors that are all the same, but one door in a set will stand out some. Other brands may be closer to what you want, otherwise you may be able to get a sharpening service to grind top and bottom edges down.
The groove to bullnose ratio may also vary by size of bit. I only have one size, cannot remember the radius.
Thinking about it, you will probably only get what you want in 1/4” shank (like mine), which means multiple passes in order not to stress the bit. I did the sample (soft yellow pine) in two passes, you may need more. I did not quite get the height of the first groove right, yours looks like 7 mm, but you get the idea.

Set the fence flush with the maximum curvature of the bit, mark the front or back of the fence on your table, then move the fence further forward and sneak up to the mark on successive passes.

Sorry about the mess in the photo showing the profile of the resultant bullnose - the best light (gathering storm) was on my wife’s pottery and potting table.

 

[Biagio]

@Jafo9,
as Tom says, there are many manufacturers, and you may find the ideal bit. You will need to establish the radius of the bullnose - perhaps you can cut a cross-section from the broken door to show the profile?
My bit cut a deeper groove than yours - 3/16”. A shallower groove would, I guess, permit “thinner” cutting edges on either side of the bullnose.
I dare say you could have a bit modified or custom-made - you guys are blessed with choices in lumber and tooling that the rest of us only dream about. But I also think a custom-made bit could be a bit pricy. Modification would need some skills, as there are small cutting edges at the top and bottom of the bit.
I can’t tell from the photos whether the panel side of the frame is a 90 degree edge, or whether there is a slight bevel.

Please keep us posted as to how you get on.

 

[Biagio]

Can you not just paint the Lowes door? Are yours custom sizes?
The thumbnail looks too flat, while the bullnose may be too deep.
I think a custom bit may be cheap at the price, especially considering that the sides are not square.
The depth of the bead below the surface is not an issue, you can sink it until the wood rubs up against the shaft of the bit, should you feel so disposed.

 

[Biagio]

You might just, just scrape by with making two parallel cuts with this bit. I could have sworn I had one, went to test it out, and found I don’t have one.

The sides of the groove will be symmetrical, whereas yours are not, but it may not be a noticeable difference once painted.

The problem with the multi-bead bit shown by Tom, is that you would have to rout the bead, then glue it on to the rest of the rail/style material. Otherwise you will not get the square outermost part of the profile.

 

[Biagio]

Your part of the world, known as a full bead bit. Lee Valley in Canada has them as beading bits.
‘There is a 3/16 radius option, which should get pretty close to your 5/16 overall bead width. You might have to hand-sand away a fine ridge on the bead, where the two opposing cuts overlap.

 

[Biagio]

Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

[Biagio]

As in surgery, it pays to do it right first time. You won’t remember the cost of the bit in a couple years, but you would get irritated every time you saw the difference between a “close” reproduction and the real thing. Did you send them a piece of molding from the broken door so they can fettle the bit exactly?

 

[Biagio]

You have saved yourself an awful lot of curse words, and can maintain your cupboards indefinitely.

 

[Biagio]

Hi there, give us an update on your repairs?