I have removed center "floating" raised oak panels from small kitchen cabinet doors by using the Dremel Trio and a regular cutting bit. Once I completed the rough cutting out of this center, I was able to pull out by hand the rest of that floating panel's pieces by hand. The frame was intact with no damage to finish. Now I have the frame of the door, floating panel taken out and the remaining groove left is perfect for the size of glass I have to cut for it. Problem is, how do I get the glass in that groove? This is a one time DIY project by a novice with little tools and I use the term "Novice" loosely. I'm guessing I'll have to cut the inside of the door panels on at least two sides to slide the glass in but what then to finish? I have 12 to do and don't want them to look awful when one opens the door even though these doors will be very high up and against the ceiling but I still want them to look good after the glass is put in and then finished, however that ends up? Thanks for any ideas, remember I have just basic tools but don't mind buying something for the job.
pacchiraku
What's next step preparing kitchen cab. door for glass?
I have removed center "floating" raised oak panels from small kitchen cabinet doors by using the Dremel Trio and a regular cutting bit. Once I completed the rough cutting out of this center, I was able to pull out by hand the rest of that floating panel's pieces by hand. The frame was intact with no damage to finish. Now I have the frame of the door, floating panel taken out and the remaining groove left is perfect for the size of glass I have to cut for it. Problem is, how do I get the glass in that groove? This is a one time DIY project by a novice with little tools and I use the term "Novice" loosely. I'm guessing I'll have to cut the inside of the door panels on at least two sides to slide the glass in but what then to finish? I have 12 to do and don't want them to look awful when one opens the door even though these doors will be very high up and against the ceiling but I still want them to look good after the glass is put in and then finished, however that ends up? Thanks for any ideas, remember I have just basic tools but don't mind buying something for the job.
Attachments
HI Celeste
I would suggest you pickup a good rabbit bit and remove the lip on the back side so you can put the glass in place..you may need to use a good chisel to sq.out the corners by hand..
MLCS Corner Chisel
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I would suggest you pickup a good rabbit bit and remove the lip on the back side so you can put the glass in place..you may need to use a good chisel to sq.out the corners by hand..
MLCS Corner Chisel
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Celeste,
Bob is absolutely right about the rabbeting bit. The bearing should ride on the "outside" part of the door as you cut away the inside portion.
I would use a dab of clear silicone at each corner and possibly along the long edge of any larger doors to keep the glass from rattling. You can use small plastic turn buttons to hold the panels in place.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1593&filter=turn%20button&ne_ppc_id=776&mkwid=3419743&pcrid=620722080&ne_key_id=swD6b4zFP&gclid=CJP57dqHr6cCFcNM4Aodfy4_Ug[/URL]
Bob is absolutely right about the rabbeting bit. The bearing should ride on the "outside" part of the door as you cut away the inside portion.
I would use a dab of clear silicone at each corner and possibly along the long edge of any larger doors to keep the glass from rattling. You can use small plastic turn buttons to hold the panels in place.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1593&filter=turn%20button&ne_ppc_id=776&mkwid=3419743&pcrid=620722080&ne_key_id=swD6b4zFP&gclid=CJP57dqHr6cCFcNM4Aodfy4_Ug[/URL]
Celeste,
Once the rabbeting bit has cleaned up the the "shoulder" and the corners have been squared up with a sharp chisel (not likely sharp enough out of the package so I'd suggest a robust X-Acto holder and heavy duty blade) the glass panel can be dropped in and permanently attached to the frame with a continuous bead of clear silicone such as GE Silicone II. No clips, beads, nails, points or retainers required. Don't bed the glass in the silicone as removing broken glass will be quite the chore.
Regis
Once the rabbeting bit has cleaned up the the "shoulder" and the corners have been squared up with a sharp chisel (not likely sharp enough out of the package so I'd suggest a robust X-Acto holder and heavy duty blade) the glass panel can be dropped in and permanently attached to the frame with a continuous bead of clear silicone such as GE Silicone II. No clips, beads, nails, points or retainers required. Don't bed the glass in the silicone as removing broken glass will be quite the chore.
Regis
I would probably make some trim on the router and tablesaw to hold the glass in; however, one other option is to use coloured silicone and no trim frame to hold the glass in. I usually use my finger to smooth the bead down, but in this case I might use one of the little plastic spreaders with the different size notched corners. In either case keep it wet then the silicone won't stick and start smearing.
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