What's the best way?

Deck

I'm doing the same thing,you may want to get a top that's done
The top must be true and flat to work right.
The one I just got you can change the bits from the top of the router table or pop it out quick and easy the router boys way ( Bob & Rick )
The neat thing about this top you can use it from the front side or the back side of the cabinet.
If you want to see a snapshot just ask and I will post one.

Top from:
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?ID=6
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/
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Plus the one that's Mike's talking about.▼
BUT note***The only plate molded with a slight crown to insure the cutter is the highest point for accurate, distortion free cuts.

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=Rousseau+mounting+plate&hl=en&btnG=Search+Froogle

Bj

Deck
Mounting the P.C. router can be a bit tricky because the mount holes come out right on the side of the Alum.snap out ring.
Marc said to just notch the Alum.ring I didn't like that ideal so I took a forrest bit and put in a pocket down to the base of the Alum.ring seat and then drilled it out and put in a counter sink holes under the snap out ring.
I used a 1/16" bit to start off with and the used a 3/16" drill bit for the mount screws.
Just a NOTE*** the screws to hold the PC in place are 10-24 (3/16-24)
Take some 10-24 set screws that are 1" long put them in your drill and grind them to a sharp POINT then screw them into the base of the router.
Then put in the 1 9/16" plug you made with the old 1/4" router bit,glued in place.
Then place the router on the botton side of the base plate and TAP the router base with a hammer, this will mark the spot to drill the 1/16" holes to mount the router to the base plate.
After you have the 1/16" holes turn over the base plate a use a 3/8" forrest bit to put in the pocket holes then drill the holes out to 3/16" and counter sink the holes.
You will need a 3/8" OD max counter sink bit.

Just some snapshots for kicks...


Bj