Woodcraft.



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OK thanks.

 

Peter,

You can make them as well using t-nuts and scrap blocks. Bobj3 has a tutorial or two on how to make your own wood knobs.

I've used brass and aluminum ends and tapped out the right sized hole as well.

 

Thanks.

 

Hi Peter

I do enjoy making knobs of all types but I will say the big wing type like to snap off easy too small of mass around the center nut the norm but here's some links that you can use to make your own very easy and quick..that will stand up to the test of time.

I make most of them for the cost of the tee nut about 10 cents each or less and some scrap stock out of the bin, I have about 100 or so on hand most of the time but for the last year I have been using pop bottle caps ,it's just quicker and cheaper and they work just as well..

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...unted-routing/49587d1327605886-mlcs-horizontal-router-table-update-100_2331.jpg

Hope this helps

Router Forums - View Single Post - Jig Storage & Shop made Knobs

Router Forums - View Single Post - Jig Storage & Shop made Knobs

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/8193-beadlock-pro-joinery-3.html

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OK thanks for that.

 

Hi Peter,
Here is a link to a supplier in the UK

from Rutlands.co.uk

Hope this helps,
Mike

 

WOW !!

UK£ 3.95 = 6.239815 U.S. dollars

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Hi Peter,
Here is a link to a supplier in the UK

from Rutlands.co.uk

Hope this helps,
Mike

 

Here's another in the UK.

Components Direct

 

Thanks and a good price too, if I can other things from them for the jig might get the free delivery option too.

 

Try your big box store, such as Lowes or Home Depot. But don't look in the hardware section as the ususally don't carry 1/4-20, or 5/16-18 ones, but rather look were they have their parts for mowers and yard equipment. I have found both there, and they usually come in packages of 2 along with bolts and washers (usually cheaper than at the woodworking store). Just bought several packages as HD was changing vendors, less than $2 per package.

 

I hate to see grown men cry... (make that groan?)
149-Piece Jig & Fixture Parts Kits - Lee Valley Tools

$6 for a knob?! Are they insane? What are the odds they came out of the same Chinese factory as our NA stock...

 

More shop made jig nuts

First post! Haven't had the chance to read much yet either... Got here a while back just looking for router info and tips.

I just made up some wingnuts in the shop last week, and remembered to get a few pics along the way.

These were a little simpler than shown by Bobj3, no counterboring for the T-nuts, or extra roundover on the edges.

The layout was basically a 1-1/8" grid, and all drilling was with 1-1/8" & 1-3/4" holesaws (halfway from each side). The overlapping gave me the flutes on the handle as well as the lower portion of the knob, plus plenty of additional spacers or to make the knobs longer.

After doing the layout, I had trimmed the scrap to the edge of the holes before drilling, to allow clearance for the sawdust from the 1" saw. SAFETY NOTE: Better to keep the scrap oversize, and drill a hole on the edge of each 1" hole for sawdust clearance (helps the holesaw). When I was drilling out the 1-3/4" the waste between the 1" holes was flying off at the completion of each hole. Ended up holding on with pliers for safety. Also, the 1" holes become sawdust clearance for the 1-3/4".

A quick hit with a 1" sanding drum in the flutes of the wingnut. Then loaded everything up on long bolts, chucked it in the drill and sanded everything smooth in just seconds. Bolted a wingnut and spacer together for glueup and alignment, and that went quick too.

The attached PDF is 4 pages, one drawing and 6 pics. I had originally drawn the layout for a 1" holesaw, but my kit didn't have THAT one... But 1-1/8" worked fine.

Also, I had already bought the T-nuts planning on 3/4" scrap, but since I had plenty of 1/2", I had to leave the 9/16" T-nuts proud of the knob till after glueup, but didn't get pics after seating them fully, plus a shot of rattlecan red...

Same process with different spacing would work great for larger or smaller knobs too.

Mike
(now to go make my intro...)

 

First post! Haven't had the chance to read much yet either... Got here a while back just looking for router info and tips.

I just made up some wingnuts in the shop last week, and remembered to get a few pics along the way.

These were a little simpler than shown by Bobj3, no counterboring for the T-nuts, or extra roundover on the edges.

The layout was basically a 1-1/8" grid, and all drilling was with 1-1/8" & 1-3/4" holesaws (halfway from each side). The overlapping gave me the flutes on the handle as well as the lower portion of the knob, plus plenty of additional spacers or to make the knobs longer.

After doing the layout, I had trimmed the scrap to the edge of the holes before drilling, to allow clearance for the sawdust from the 1" saw. SAFETY NOTE: Better to keep the scrap oversize, and drill a hole on the edge of each 1" hole for sawdust clearance (helps the holesaw). When I was drilling out the 1-3/4" the waste between the 1" holes was flying off at the completion of each hole. Ended up holding on with pliers for safety. Also, the 1" holes become sawdust clearance for the 1-3/4".

A quick hit with a 1" sanding drum in the flutes of the wingnut. Then loaded everything up on long bolts, chucked it in the drill and sanded everything smooth in just seconds. Bolted a wingnut and spacer together for glueup and alignment, and that went quick too.

The attached PDF is 4 pages, one drawing and 6 pics. I had originally drawn the layout for a 1" holesaw, but my kit didn't have THAT one... But 1-1/8" worked fine.

Also, I had already bought the T-nuts planning on 3/4" scrap, but since I had plenty of 1/2", I had to leave the 9/16" T-nuts proud of the knob till after glueup, but didn't get pics after seating them fully, plus a shot of rattlecan red...

Same process with different spacing would work great for larger or smaller knobs too.

Mike
(now to go make my intro...)

Just went back to reread this topic, missed your post first time, interesting info thanks.
Peter.

 

Hi Mike

That's a great PDF file (how to make knobs) THANKS

I'm always looking for a cheaper /easy-er way to make knobs.
Here's just one more way, use the pop lids off the pop bottles,little bit of fiber glass resin and you have a knob in 30 mins or less after the resin drys out.
Plus it can be made for peanuts..

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Bob,

I like those pop bottle caps, but I have never seen them on any pop bottles around here or in any of my travels around the US. What pop bottles do they come on? Where do I find some?

Charley

 

NOS - High-Performance Energy Drink | Power Through

from 7-11 stores/food stores/ and many other outlets,1.00 dollar the norm..

Just a note :: it can be any type of plastic caps, I'm now saving all types of caps at one time I just put them in the trash can.. but the pop caps I like the best..at about .10 cents for a jig knob.

==

 

It's worth staying on this forum, just to keep up with Bj's hints and tips......

Thanks Bob.

 

Wow, with your reputation I've seen here, I am really thankful for your comments BobJ3! Glad I could provide something easily useful.

In the meanwhile, since my original post, I have continued my playing at lunchtime, and re-drew the 4-notch layout (CROSS) to include sawdust relief holes, as well as developing a 5 (PENT) & 6 (HEX) notch layout as well. The idea was to make a layout that could just be repeated for the lenght of whatever scrap you happen to be using. 3 PDFs attached.

Also, the overlap of the cuts on the PENT layout should fall into the kerf of the previous one, or be small enough to sand off. Haven't made them yet...

Now I just need to steal some more shop time!

Mike "Dodis"

 

I use ebay.de for sourcing any sort of unusual fastener I need. Search there for 'sterngriffe' - literally, star-grip - and you'll find plenty of knobs, but almost always in metric threads, not usually imperial.

 

OK thanks for the tip.

 

Mike, is there any way to make the hex and or the pent version with the 1 3/4" overall size?

 

All you need is the right size thread. Many things use large wing nuts including most newer lawnmowers.