Hi Bobby

That's a hard one ,,it's almost like asking what kind of car to buy,,,,,,,everyone has the one they bought and it's the best just like a car..

Buy the best one you can afford and do your home work..

I like the Katie dovetail jig, I'm not the sharpest pencil in the box I wanted one that is easy to use ..see what I mean


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Bobby,

Go with the Katie like BJ recommends if you can swing it. Nice and simple and can do a about any job. One BIG plus is that it works with the router "in the table" :dance3:

 

If you plan on doing other joints like box joints, sliding dovetails, etc. then get an Akeda. It is very simple to use, does not require a lot of assembly and is extremely well built. You can check it out at akeda dot com

 

My money would go for the Leigh D4. But the other posters are absolutely right - if you ask 10 different woodworkers, you'll probably get 10 different answers. *shrug*

 

I bought my super 18'' leigh for $290 plus shipping at Valley Supply Canoga Park ca. (818)340-2630 I did my home work for 3 months you can also buy other templates for it

 

One of the big problems with dovetail jigs is that there seems to be a direct link between price and frustration with many of them. The less they cost, the more they frustrate.
I have long been a fan of the Leigh jigs even though they represent a sizeable investment. I would love for them to be free or close to it but that isn't reality. I don't mind paying for good equipment that works very well and then keeps working that well for many years.
I have reviewed the Rockler jigs and for the money, I think they are one of the better values out there. If the Rockler jig fits the budget, good deal, if you can swing the Leigh I urge you to consider that one as well.

 

OK, in the spirit of "the only bad question is the one that isn't asked"... Has anyone any opinion on the General Tools Pro Dovetail Jig at HD (home depot). I too am just getting into woodworking and this looks too simple to be hard.

 

In my experience, if it seems too nice and easy, it probably is much more complicated (or poorer quality) than it seems. I haven't actually seen this jig, but based on the pictures from the manufacturer's website, I'd probably pass.

I have to admit I use a very cheap and small Craftsman dovetail jig. It's made of plastic so it requires a little tweaking here and there, but the setup is a breeze, as opposed to other jigs I've used.

If you're going to spend $60 on a dovetail jig, I'd spend a few bucks more and go for a Rockler or Jet. You can probably find one on craigslist depending on where you live, maybe for even less.

 

The biggest problems with virtually all dovetail jigs are 1) setting proper bit depth and 2) accurately setting the position of the finger template. Once these two settings are dialed in you can cut consistent dovetails over and over on pretty much any dovetail jig. The problem is it can be very frustrating trying to get these setting right.

The Leigh jigs strength is in its accurate vernier scale used to adjust the finger template. The biggest complaint with Leigh jigs is setting router bit depth. I know two friends that have D4R’s sitting in their garage collecting dust because they don’t like the hassle of setting up bits in the router. The manual makes it look easy; but in reality, it’s a bit more work than you think.

Akeda jigs are easy to set up the jig, but it can be a real hassle setting the proper bit and depth in the router (read the reviews, lots of complaints here). I am not a fan of the Akeda jig.

The Porter Cable 4212 is a brute and uses crude thumbwheel nuts and a guideline cut in the template to adjust the template position. The guideline on the finger template will get you in the ballpark but numerous adjustments may be required to dial in the perfect template position. The problem is the thumbwheel nuts are not very accurate and tends to move the template when you tighten them. The router bit depth setting guide is handy but you will still need to tweak bit depth.

Then there are the inexpensive jigs. They are no better or worse than all the expensive fancy jigs because it all boils down to proper template and bit depth setting.

Single pass half blind dovetails are the easiest to setup and cut because you do not need to reset the jig between pin and tail cuts.

Through dovetails can be a bit more of a challenge because you need to re-setup the jig and may also need to change router bits between pin and tail cuts. Touch the jig or change router bits and you can bet you will be fine tuning all over again.

All dovetail jigs will guide a router in a way that will cut dovetails. It’s the setup that is the real issue. My advise, start with an inexpensive Rockler type dovetail jig and get familiar with the in’s and out’s of cutting dovetails; than you can decide if it is really worth spending $400 - $600 of an expensive dovetail jig. Unless you really need variable spaced finger I suggest you stay away from the hi end jigs. They just aren’t worth the money unless you use them everyday.

 

Hi Rob

I must disagree with you

The Katie jig is so easy it 's almost imposable to get a dovetail in wrong the 1st. time you use it..
Out of the box you can put in dovetails in about 5 mins or less unlike many of the others..

Many dovetail machines can and will drive you nuts trying to set them up..not to say anything of making fire wood the 1st. two hours or so..

Catalog #15 Page 3-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood


"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions."
MIKE
Senior Moderator

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I don't have any problems setting the router depth on either the Leigh or my favorite the Akeda. I don't have a vernier scale on the leigh fingers, the fingers are normally set by eye. If you are referring to the scale on the sides of the template they are not even used. On the new VRS they are basically done away with. On the leigh you put in your wood, put in another cross board and mark it with a pencil. Then adjust the router bit until it is centered on the line. Simple.

On the Akeda it is even easier because there is a window you can look through. Put the router on jig and adjust the bit until it is slightly below the wood you are cutting.

I like the Akeda much better than the Leigh. For someone starting out simple is better and Akeda is very simple.

 

I guess I'll chime in by saying, I have to "3rd" what Bj is saying about the Katie Jig. No, I don't have one. Wished I did. I've always wanted a Leigh but, too pricey. Others have purchased the New PC DT jjg and there seems to more complaints than praise about it. What I do have, is a cheap craftsmen DT jig that IMHO is junk. I believe another member has already mentioned this in an earlier reply. Take a good close look at the Katie Jig. It follows along the lines of the OP jigs. K.I.S.S.

 

If you only intend to make a few box joints, you can make a simple jig to make these from scrap mdf and less than an hour of your time.

 

here is the one i have It is very easy to use Only 1 set up will cut tail's and pins And very tight No messing around I have used it for a couple yrs now Gifkins Dovetail Jig You can get it from japan wood worker

 

here is the one i have It is very easy to use Only 1 set up will cut tail's and pins And very tight No messing around I have used it for a couple yrs now Gifkins Dovetail Jig You can get it from japan wood worker

Del,

My vote is also for the Gifkins Jig.

For a beginner where variable spaced pins/tails is not an issue, great value.

If you are only going to do the occasional dovetail there is no need to outlay a great deal of money for something that will gather dust in the corner.

James

 

Well I have to put in a vote for the Leigh jig. It's the only jig that has variable pin/tail width and looks the closest to hand cut. I just bit the bullet and got the Leigh 12" Superjig. First off I'll say that ANY tool that performs very accurate repeatable cuts requires some initial setup and tweaking. If you're not willing to read and understand the manuals and invest the time then you'll never get great results no matter the manufacturer.
Setting bit depth on the Leigh is as simple as accurately (there's that word again) scribing a line on the workpiece, then accurately (again) setting the bit to the center of the line.
In my case I downloaded the instruction manual prior to getting the jig so the setup time was shortened for me. Still about an hour or so is needed to assemble, familiarize yourself, and make some test cuts. I gotta say the results were pretty impressive. Airtight through and half-blind dovetails the first time. Great product. Oh, and if you decide on the Leigh get the VRS attachment. Works great with very little or no sawdust on the floor.

 

General Tools EZ-Pro Dovetail Jig

Has anybody tried using the EZ-Pro Dovetail Jig from General Tools (available at Home Depot in my area)? I saw it in the store the other day and wondered if it would work (retails for $40). I'm not looking for something that is too expensive, just want to be able to cut dovetails to make wooden boxes (ie: jewelry, music, etc.). I've tried making my own jig with no luck. This one looks so easy. Then again, that's what you guys have all warned about. If it looks too easy, then there's got to be a catch. Just would like to hear from anyone that actually has one or has used one. Thanks.

 

Has anybody tried using the EZ-Pro Dovetail Jig from General Tools (available at Home Depot in my area)? I saw it in the store the other day and wondered if it would work (retails for $40). I'm not looking for something that is too expensive, just want to be able to cut dovetails to make wooden boxes (ie: jewelry, music, etc.). I've tried making my own jig with no luck. This one looks so easy. Then again, that's what you guys have all warned about. If it looks too easy, then there's got to be a catch. Just would like to hear from anyone that actually has one or has used one. Thanks.

I think that one is designed to work with a router table.

 

EZ PRO. is the same as below I think, it will work but it's on the lower end of dovetail jigs..

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

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I just got my new shop notes mag. yesterday. I see that someone has rediscovered and old but, true idea for DT's. My grand dad when he was alive and still doing cabinetary, he used his TS, BS and routers to create them. I do suggest you take a good look at this. Again, an old idea made new again.

ShopNotes Magazine - No. 108 Table of Contents

 

Fast Joint precision joinery system sold through MCLS is another slick system worth taking a look at. All joint are made from the router table top via use of a 3/16" bit and template. With an assortment of optional templates that appear to be very reasonably priced. thru dovetails are limited to1/4- 3/8" stock and halfblind can be made with up to1/4- 3/4" stock. They advertise both are good for boards up to 14"s wide. Don't have one myself, (saving up for the LeighD4r) just another one of many worth a good look...

be sure to check out the accompanying video...damn, ya gotta love the internet..

Fast Joint Precision Joinery System

 

Ptree and Oak Park and Rockler sale about the same thing, Ptree and MLCS are the same at almost the same price ( 2.oo bucks in total) but MLCS has free shipping that's a big plus for the bottom line...

I have the MLCS and it's a great jig.. the only thing I don't like about the system it comes with a 3/16" HSS bit..I thing they did that because the soild carb.bit likes to break easy..

I did one box and the bit was toast and black and blue.. so I now use the carb. bit but with care..
The brass guides are very high end type but you must check them once you open the box..they must be dead on..

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http://www.ptreeusa.com/fast_joint.htm
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Fast Joint precision joinery system sold through MCLS is another slick system worth taking a look at. All joint are made from the router table top via use of a 3/16" bit and template. With an assortment of optional templates that appear to be very reasonably priced. thru dovetails are limited to1/4- 3/8" stock and halfblind can be made with up to1/4- 3/4" stock. They advertise both are good for boards up to 14"s wide. Don't have one myself, (saving up for the LeighD4r) just another one of many worth a good look...

be sure to check out the accompanying video...damn, ya gotta love the internet..

Fast Joint Precision Joinery System

 

In support of the Katie Jig, again, no I don't have one and, yes I do want one. I suggest you take a close look at Marc Sommerfeld's dvd, "Router Tables Made Easy". Marc shows just how simple and easy this jig is to use.

 

I think everyone agrees that "accurate" setup is what using dovetail jigs is all about. No matter how simple, fancy, expensive or exotic a dovetail jig is, if it and/or the router are not set up "accurately" it will not cut good dovetails. What Akeda does is eliminate jig adjustments and put the onus in router setup. I suppose that is a step in the right direction.

By the way, I was able to cut great dovetails with a 15 years old Sears dovetail template..... Again, it's all about accurate setup.

 

I do the same. I have an old Sears router that is difficult to adjust for depth, but once adjusted holds its position solidly. I've set that for the dovetails and I never change it. So my dovetail setups are fairly quick.

 

By the way, this is my concern about the Akeda jig (from Benchmark)...

The Akeda has been specifically designed to offer no adjustment to the template system itself. However its claims of "no adjustment required" is fundamentally not true. There are in fact adjustments required.
All the fixed template design does is move the fit equation from the template and into the guide bushing and bit diameter. This ultimately translates into fewer opportunities to correct the fit since it is harder to make corrections changing bit and guide bushings than it is to move a template. The design of the Akeda in particular is closely dependant upon the guide bushing being nearly perfect; Standard guide bushings are NOT purposefully made to the tolerances required.

Since the template is fixed, adjustments are made using two additional proprietary router bits (the straight cutters) which are 0.004" under and oversize and / or using two 0.004" under and oversize precision guide bushings.

As a result of this design, if the tolerance stackup of the guide diameter, router bit diameter, and spindle runout does not result in the desired fit, the user must start swapping router bits and guide bushings to try and find the right combination to achieve the desired fit. This is more of a hassle than simple reading a scale and moving the template.


It should be noted that the over and under size router bits and guide bushings required to obtain adjustability are NOT standard therefore the base jig actually has NO adjustment capability.

 

Thanks to all you guys for taking the time and for sharing your experience and thoughts with me. I am also new to this site and didn't expect such great feedback. I'll be checking out the other brands that were mentioned, I admit I had no idea how many were out there but at least now I have an idea what the concerns are and what to look for. Thanks again
Bobby V

 

we're glad you joined us, Bobby.. and stick around.. there'll be more questions and answers to come!

 

Echonav,

Have you personally used an Akeda jig and for how long?

Thanks,
Jim

 

I use the Porter Cable 4212 and I'm happy with it. The Akeda jig seems to have a good setup for dust collection (important for an indoor shop) but I could not justify the price and the need to purchase all of the different bits.

I'd love to buy a Wood Rat, but that too is outside of my price range.

Good luck on your selection. It is a hard choice, so I'd take my time in the selection process.


Dave

 

I forgot to add that I've been looking at the jig that Penn State offers, there are a lot of templates for different cuts that look pretty interesting.

Dave

 

I would have to say get the Leigh D4R JIG. Very strong and the manual is the best for a jig I've seen. They are kinda pricey but I believe worth it.