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I posted earlier in the thread, had then just got the new Gifkins and only done a test cut.
Have made a few boxes since, one with variable spacings and I am delighted.
Anyone that gets one of these and follows the very detailed but simple instructions, should be able to produce perfect joints, first time, every time, as I have.

Caveat: This is an Aussie product and I'm a proud Aussie, so I could be accused of bias : )
 
Hi Henry, I have made many boxes with my Gifkins and have been very happy with it also. I would still like to one day have the Katie jig for the expanded options mentioned by BJ, but then again wonder if I would really use the other options :unsure:
 
One quick question..comment...dissertation...Whatever..

I have been looking at all the jigs offered and considering the initial outlay of coinage I keep asking myself how many boxes am I going to make and for whom. I know from experience if you take em to a craft sale no one will spend the money for what you put into them in effort and time let alone the supplies.. I have had wonderful conversations with myself about this issue. I have decided I make "stuff" for me and people that appreciate it..wife, daughters grandchildren and great neighbors...I have been using the "Woodline jig for a while now and convinced myself to move up..So my dear Forum Friends please keep beating this issue and I will move up....just as soon as I suss out my sign project...I'm keeping score as to who likes what and why....Damn I love a close race..

Best Regards,
George Cole
 
Bob,
So far it's a tie but really hard to tell who's ahead. Honestly I am doing my best to justify the expense. My rational is that I'm retired, half way to 132 (thanks Jim) and as far as I know you can't take anything with you when you go....you know the extra charges for luggage...so why not get all the toys while you can..2012 will be here soon anyway..

George
 
Bob,
So far it's a tie but really hard to tell who's ahead. Honestly I am doing my best to justify the expense. My rational is that I'm retired, half way to 132 (thanks Jim) and as far as I know you can't take anything with you when you go....you know the extra charges for luggage...so why not get all the toys while you can..2012 will be here soon anyway..

George
George..... go for it! You know you want to :dance3:
 
Hi Henry, I have made many boxes with my Gifkins and have been very happy with it also. I would still like to one day have the Katie jig for the expanded options mentioned by BJ, but then again wonder if I would really use the other options :unsure:
G'day Bob,
It's always nice to have all the options. I bought the kit Gifkin calls "The Lot," - all 6 dovetail and 2 finger joint templates and associated router bits. Probably overkill on my part, but I'm a tool fanatic.
Not sure what the earlier models did, but this new one will do standard through dovetails, variable spacing, angled dovetails. Can do longer sections than the 300mm specified. (Needs care in setup) Won't do blind dovetails apparently. I can live with that, - I'm used to putting false fronts on drawers as it is.
Given it's capabilities, my main reason for getting it was the almost foolproof setup arrangement, which if followed, gives first class results every time.
Apart from the safety aspect, I reckon I could have a complete novice cutting perfect dovetails in 15 minutes.
(Is my Aussie parochialism showing? ) : )
 
Henry,

You are absolutely right in it being one of the easiest and fool proof jigs made, at least IMHO. My Gifkins is capable of everything you have listed and I have been most happy with it also. The Katie got my attention with the blind DT and the variable spacers, but like I said, not sure how much I would even need those features. Just the downside of being a toolaholic and always looking for something that does more I guess. :happy:
 
I just bit the bullet and got the Leigh 12" Superjig with the vacuum attachment. I wont use it so much for small boxes as I think they are too delicate for dovetail or box joints. Mitered corners with splined keys look best in my opinion. I do however make a lot of drawers and the Leigh jig does the best job of replicating the look of handcut dovetails. I like the variable spacing, really customizes the look of the joints.
Again, my opinion only.
Assembly and setup time is about an hour. This includes making practice cuts and fine tuning your settings. Then it's accurate repetition for as long as you can cut.
There are so many factors that go into the precision and accuracy of any of theses jigs no matter the manufacturer, thickness of pieces being joined, species of wood, guide bushing accuracy, router runout, operator technique, etc. The Leigh jig looked to me to be the one with the most accurate repeatable results. I'll give a bit more information as I get to use it more.
 
Dovtail Jigs are divided into three classes, expensive, workable but frustrating and a pattern to make your own jig.

The first group is made up of katiejig.com, akeda.com, leighjigs.com, kellerdovetail.com, mcfeelys.com/docs/prazi.pdf, gifkins.com.au and festool.com. This category is basically throw money at the wall and see if it sticks. All of the jigs work and share the same frustrations. When considering a dovetail jig, start with the end product and work backwards and you'll see that they all follow the same procedures.

Then, you've got the "standard import" jig that is available under a myriad of brand names and come in a broad range of completeness. The only one to offer anything different is the Rockler version. The most cost effective is the Craftex from busybee tools.

The last category allows you to make your own jig from a template. This is Richard Stottmann's jig. stots.com. He provides you the capability to make your own jig of any size. Of dovetail jigs, this one offers the greatest bang from the buck and the greatest versatility. The one drawback is the blind dovetail implementation is a kludge.

My vote goes with Richard's for most use and the craftex for blind dovetails. BTW, all jigs, from the Gifkin's to the Stots share the same setup headaches. Once setup is complete and all adjustments made, they are all equally productive.

I hope this helps.
 
I'm going to make a some broad-brush generalizations here, but they are consistant with my observations. Your mileage may vary. These observations seem to apply to most templates and jigs.

At best, templates and jigs provide great repeatability and accuracy, once you have them properly set up / tuned. The amount of setup required can vary from jig to jig but all involve a level of upfront investment of time to accomplish this. This applies to dovetail jigs, the Incra (and other) fences when used for highly precise cuts, as well as templates themselves. Once the setup is complete (or template made), if properly designed and used they can save a lot of time and reduce the amount of firewood generated.

Take for example, a trivel design I'm using to hone my Incra skills (first page attached, free download from Incra.com). Making the body of the trivet simply involves 56 cuts lowering the wood over a spinning bit and sliding the wood between two depth stops. The upfront time is spent in setting the fence to cut precisely in the center of the wood and placing the depth stops for each end such that the two intersecting bits meet precisely at the same point. It may just be my shortage of skill but I've twice spent an hour or so tuning the stops and only have it within about 1/16" in a couple of places. After the second (last) adjustment though, I was able to cut 6 trivet bases (336 cuts across 4 different bits) in a bit over an hour. Once I get the final setup, a "production run" would be a breeze.

To a much lesser extent but the same is true with the 4 dovetail drawers I made for my shop. I spent most of an hour on the setup and about 5 minutes per drawer making the cuts. If it'd been a kitchen full of drawers, the time would have been very time effective for me (not yet having the skill for hand-cut).

Fortunately for me, the slight depth stop error on the trivets only showes up on the perimeter so I've been able to trim off the perimeter and end up with some pretty spectacular 4"x4" 3-D coasters made from Maple and Padauk, minimizing the firewood pile.

Anyway, I've found that with precisely sized square and flat stock and a properly set up jig, these cuts are relatively easy but they do not come without some investment of time up front. Since my mission is building my skills rather than production, I'm intentionally choosing projects that require different skills than those I used in my last projects. This puts me low on the learning curve, requiring a disproportionate amount of setup compared to others that have used these tools for an extensive period of time (like others here), but my point remains. There's an up front investment of your time.

Any one who approaches making dovetailed drawers (possibly other than in an assembly line, with previously set up equipment) expecting the speed and ease of "glue and screw" joints is misled.

Good jigs and templates can help minimize making firewood from your prime wood, but they don't come without investment of time. Bad ones... well, I won't even go there... :)

Just my $0.04... (just like $0.02, but twice as long!) :)

<Edit> Hmm.. maybe I should have made that $0.06!!
 

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let me tell you this, when I first started dovetails I bought the rockler one which works o.k. but I have used it only two or three times.....since then, I have made about 8 projects using hand cut dovetails (one of them had about 80 dovetails) with a $15.00 japanese style saw from home depot and the veritas 14 degree saw guide from leevalley for $42.50.and had tons more satisfaction doing it this way then with the jig.
It just took me about 10 dovetails to get the idea.
There are a lot of articles about this in the different woodworking magazines.
Teo
 
I agree with Ron on the three catagories of DT jigs only my descriptsions are a little more colourful. The only time I use a jig is when I have to make HB. I try and use through dovetails which I make on the bandsaw. It has its limitations but I find as a rule
I can make the DT's faster and with less frustration than it takes to set the dovetail jig up. The learning curve is short. When I learned this method I found I was making acceptable dovetails in about an hour. This method is not good for a production shop but for what most of us do I think this is a good alternative.
That's my .02
Wayne
 
Look into the gifkins dovetail jig, its made in Australia and sold thru an outfit called Japanwoodworker. You will be cutting thru dovetails in 10 minutes, it is so simple to use. you are limited to thru dovetails though. its about $249 and well worth it.

Joe
 
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