Which router bit?
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ball/round nose bit....
Freud Tools - Search Results for round nose
Freud Tools - Search Results for round nose
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Plus one for the drill press. Getting the router bit centered in just the right spot so many times seems a daunting task. Chuck up a ball-nose bit in your drill press and run it at top speed.
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If you are going to do this with a router, make a template on the drill press and then use a bushing on the router to cut the board.
If you are doing only one ,just use the drill press with the router bit. You might want to dimple the hole first with a small drill bit to act like a pilot to keep the ball bit from wandering on the drill press. Also putting the drill press on highest speed with the router bit.
Herb
If you are doing only one ,just use the drill press with the router bit. You might want to dimple the hole first with a small drill bit to act like a pilot to keep the ball bit from wandering on the drill press. Also putting the drill press on highest speed with the router bit.
Herb
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I was going to make a Chinese checker board once, but found that the post on my drill press would not allow me to reach far enough. I would have to make a template and use a plunge router with a guide bushing to accomplish it. I never made it sorry to say.
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Excellent guide Harry.
The internal diameter must allow a reasonable clearance between it and the bit. Kits of template guides are available for the Tritons but in Australia they are VERY expensive but much cheaper in other countries. It would have been possible to point you in the right direction if your profile had been completed.
https://stusshed.com/2008/01/26/triton-router-template-guides/
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To me, this is a job for a drill press with a ball nose bit. The result will be the same, but it is far easier to do with a drill press, particularly one with a laser.
If you use a router, I'd also consider using straight lines so you can use a clamped on straight edge to align all the holes. Butt the router base up to the straight edge. Set the depth stop so the depth is limited and consistent. Then all you have to do is get the spacing between holes the same. Which would be much easier with a square base on your router. You can put a reference mark on the routher and lay out the spacing on the straight edge. Voila, even, straight spacing. The curve will be much harder to do accurately.
I'd lay this out on a large sheet of butcher paper. You can punch small holes precisely where you want to drill, then transfer the mark through the paper with a marker. You'll be drilling out those marks, but it will really help you with alignment later.
OK, that's my 37 cents worth.
If you use a router, I'd also consider using straight lines so you can use a clamped on straight edge to align all the holes. Butt the router base up to the straight edge. Set the depth stop so the depth is limited and consistent. Then all you have to do is get the spacing between holes the same. Which would be much easier with a square base on your router. You can put a reference mark on the routher and lay out the spacing on the straight edge. Voila, even, straight spacing. The curve will be much harder to do accurately.
I'd lay this out on a large sheet of butcher paper. You can punch small holes precisely where you want to drill, then transfer the mark through the paper with a marker. You'll be drilling out those marks, but it will really help you with alignment later.
OK, that's my 37 cents worth.
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