[JOAT]

My shop isn't insulated either. Didn't have the money to spare when I got the shop and just let it slide since. But, being as the heat, and cold, is really getting to me this year, starting to think how to insulate it. Rolls of insulation would be good, but not on my knees or back. But looks like I can get ridged foam insulation, cut it to fit between the joists, with a lot less pain and time, so that is likely the rout I will go. Then thinking OSB will work well over it, especially since I have a small air nailer. Dunno if will cut it in strips, chunks, or what. For me at least it seems to be the best route, figure it will cause me the least pain and time. Should give me the incentive to make some changes, and also to get rid of a batch of stuff the younger son had me store in there - and then never touched again.

 

[Jontaylor]

Try to insulate the shop with some cooling system. I remembered a few years ago when I went to a wood shop for purchasing a lamp, I got impressed with the interiors they had in their shop. Not only the rooftop, but also the floors was fully made of wooden floors. After I asked the manager about highly unique designed floors, they suggested me to call the wood*flooring Sacramento from the website for having such an amazing wood floor designs.

 

[hawkeye10]

I put OSB board on the walls on the shop I had before this one. I then blew insulation behind that. I also put OSB on the ceiling. Light reflected off of it really good. For 1/2" OSB it's $7.55 a sheet in my neck of the woods.

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...sOsZbS2XwpqFQ0ybRNhoCc7IQAvD_BwE,gclsrc:aw.ds

 

[CharleyL]

My shop is fully insulated 3 1/2 in the walls and 6" in the ceiling, but very little of it has any covering. The plan was to cover walls and ceiling with 1/2" plywood, but I had to move everything in because I had to vacate my former shop, so only a few sheets were put up and those are where the clamps and small parts bins needed to be hung. I did get it fully wired though. 4" quad outlets every 4' on #12/3 BX cable inside the walls and special runs for the 240 volt machines. I even ran the compressed air in the walls using 5/8 soft copper and flare fittings. Lights, heat pump, air compressor and all of my tools are in there and it's comfortable to work in there. If it never gets walls, oh,well.

I'm still spending most of my available time working on the 17 X 26' photography studio upstairs in the house. Very little has been done in my shop/outbuilding since January 2019. I have several woodworking projects planned for the photo studio, so I will be back out there soon.

Charley

 

[RainMan 2.0]

My shop is fully insulated 3 1/2 in the walls and 6" in the ceiling, but very little of it has any covering. The plan was to cover walls and ceiling with 1/2" plywood, but I had to move everything in because I had to vacate my former shop, so only a few sheets were put up and those are where the clamps and small parts bins needed to be hung. I did get it fully wired though. 4" quad outlets every 4' on #12/3 BX cable inside the walls and special runs for the 240 volt machines. I even ran the compressed air in the walls using 5/8 soft copper and flare fittings. Lights, heat pump, air compressor and all of my tools are in there and it's comfortable to work in there. If it never gets walls, oh,well.

I'm still spending most of my available time working on the 17 X 26' photography studio upstairs in the house. Very little has been done in my shop/outbuilding since January 2019. I have several woodworking projects planned for the photo studio, so I will be back out there soon.

Charley

I have a feeling the most I’ll get done before winter is have the insulation in the walls and ceiling, then if it’s cold outside I can at least work in there and board it at my leisure .
I’m not going to be working,so maybe I’ll actually apply myself and get it done before it’s cold .
Not very confident though , as it seems the months go by extremely quickly

 

[RainMan 2.0]

My shop isn't insulated either. Didn't have the money to spare when I got the shop and just let it slide since. But, being as the heat, and cold, is really getting to me this year, starting to think how to insulate it. Rolls of insulation would be good, but not on my knees or back. But looks like I can get ridged foam insulation, cut it to fit between the joists, with a lot less pain and time, so that is likely the rout I will go. Then thinking OSB will work well over it, especially since I have a small air nailer. Dunno if will cut it in strips, chunks, or what. For me at least it seems to be the best route, figure it will cause me the least pain and time. Should give me the incentive to make some changes, and also to get rid of a batch of stuff the younger son had me store in there - and then never touched again.

That rigid foam costs a fortune here Joat . I may as well go with Roxul

 

[Jontaylor]

Try to insulate the shop with some cooling system. i remember a few years ago when i went to a wooden shop for purchasing lamp, i got impressed with the interiors they had at their shop. Not oly the rooftop but also the floors were fully made of floors. After I asked the manage about highly unique designed floors, they suggested me to call the hardwood flooring sacramento for having such an amazing wood floor designs.

 

[DesertRatTom]

There is one entire wall in my shop that has 3 1/2 inch R13 insulation, and it's covered by 1/4 inch peg board. There is also a layer of radiant barrier on the inside of that wall which is 3/4 ply. That makes it R17. The ceiling has about 6 inches, but that insulation is sealed in with 2 inch thick foam with a reflective coating on the inside. I also have radient barrier (Bubble type) just under the roof, which keeps heat out in summer, heat in in winter. I think it took about 2 days to get all the insulation in.

The ceiling in the garage has 6 inch (R38) that was put in by a professional crew, with blown in insulation in all the walls. The ceiling was done in a couple of hours, including putting in the radiant barrier under the OSB roofing. The same crew also installed venting so there's air flow into the area and a powered exhaust fan so if it gets more than 120 up there, it changes the air.

I found that having a good powered staple gun makes installing insulation much faster and easier.

I've mentioned it before, but we did a IR heat check comparing the bare OSB to the radiant barrier covered side and there was about a 35 degree difference. Out here in the Mojave, that counts big time. I mention the details because, while we don't get condensation and mold problems here, where you are Rick, that attic ventillation is likely to be necessary.

I bet you could have that insulation fully in with about 4 evenings of work. Install one wall per day, and then the ceiling. Get the stuff in and worry about the wall materials later. I think you will seriously regret putting your new CNC through a winter of freezing in that ice box.

 

[RainMan 2.0]

There is one entire wall in my shop that has 3 1/2 inch R13 insulation, and it's covered by 1/4 inch peg board. There is also a layer of radiant barrier on the inside of that wall which is 3/4 ply. That makes it R17. The ceiling has about 6 inches, but that insulation is sealed in with 2 inch thick foam with a reflective coating on the inside. I also have radient barrier (Bubble type) just under the roof, which keeps heat out in summer, heat in in winter. I think it took about 2 days to get all the insulation in.

The ceiling in the garage has 6 inch (R38) that was put in by a professional crew, with blown in insulation in all the walls. The ceiling was done in a couple of hours, including putting in the radiant barrier under the OSB roofing. The same crew also installed venting so there's air flow into the area and a powered exhaust fan so if it gets more than 120 up there, it changes the air.

I found that having a good powered staple gun makes installing insulation much faster and easier.

I've mentioned it before, but we did a IR heat check comparing the bare OSB to the radiant barrier covered side and there was about a 35 degree difference. Out here in the Mojave, that counts big time. I mention the details because, while we don't get condensation and mold problems here, where you are Rick, that attic ventillation is likely to be necessary.

I bet you could have that insulation fully in with about 4 evenings of work. Install one wall per day, and then the ceiling. Get the stuff in and worry about the wall materials later. I think you will seriously regret putting your new CNC through a winter of freezing in that ice box.

Tom I stored all the cnc stuff in the basement. Thought I’d assemble it when the garage is complete inside ,which may be never if this new job turns out .

I thought I’d try and get some part time work ,as that would give me time to work on my house and shop .
But in a strange turn of events , one of our main contractors just crashed his quad breaking his leg and also receiving some spinal damage .
So now they want me full time . This will be a lot more work than I’m used to , and I suspect I’ll be pretty much bagged when I get home . But if I’m working out of town , the shift is 8 in and 6 out ,and that would free me up .
I could certainly use some decent income for the time being , as I still have way to high of a mortgage .
Things change rapidly around here , so I’m going to make the best of it and save as much as I can for now , as you never know what tomorrow brings .
I’m hoping this works out till I’m at least 60 ,which is in April 2021, then I can apply for CPP early .
Maybe hard work will get me in better shape and I’ll really enjoy this job and stretch it till I’m 65

 

[DesertRatTom]

@RainMan 2.0
You know, even if you only put in 2 hours per day, you could still get it done before winter. You have, what, 6 weeks before it starts turning cold. By then you could have have the insulation in.

 

[RainMan 2.0]

@RainMan 2.0
You know, even if you only put in 2 hours per day, you could still get it done before winter. You have, what, 6 weeks before it starts turning cold. By then you could have have the insulation in.

Ya but then I couldn’t BS with you guys every day :lol:

 

[DesertRatTom]

Ya but then I couldn’t BS with you guys every day :lol:

Ahh, there it is. Holy cow, a CNC in the basement and you want to BS with a bunch of old farts? Get a grip Rick. :smile: Get the insulation and a staple gun. Do what you can, when you can. Bet once you get started, you'll move it right along.

 

[Inor]

5/8" Hardie Board on the walls and ceiling. Metallic epoxy from these guys on the floor.

https://www.epoxyplus.com/

I will argue the epoxy floor finish is even more important than the walls and ceiling. It makes the shop SO much easier to clean up.

 

[DesertRatTom]

...

I will argue the epoxy floor finish is even more important than the walls and ceiling. It makes the shop SO much easier to clean up.

One shop has a ply floor, the other (garage) is concrete. Same stuff for both?

 

[DaninVan]

Harsh!

Ahh, there it is. Holy cow, a CNC in the basement and you want to BS with a bunch of old farts? Get a grip Rick. :smile: Get the insulation and a staple gun. Do what you can, when you can. Bet once you get started, you'll move it right along.

He can't, Tom. The garage is so full of stuff that he's overwhelmed. There is NO plan. I actually empathize.
Pretty sure I predicted this stalemate a few years ago; the garage has to be emptied out, completely. Trying to move the stuff around to get any work done in there will never happen.
Get a crane to place a shipping container onto the driveway, and hire a couple of guys to help with moving the stuff, insulating, and whatever else.This business of blowing insulation is just a stalling tactic.
Sorry if this sounds unkind, but just calling a stapler a stapler.
This misery could be done in a week. Talking about R40 in a workshop (in Castlegar) is not helping; you're not heating the shop to live in it. Go with R32 Fibreglass and giter done! Roxul is great stuff but a lot harder to install well.

 

[Larry42]

A bunch of good ideas. If you do drywall in the ceiling be sure it is 5/8", 1/2 will sag over time on 24". I also prefer conduit surface mounted for it's ease of changes. Over time you will change tool layout. If when you put in the conduit on the ceiling you mount a few extra boxes with a loop of 10 or 12 gage wire, life will be easier in the future. I marked the face plates with the breaker #. Painting walls & ceiling semi gloss white greatly improves the lighting. Don't cheap out on the lighting put in plenty of 4' LEDs. The ones around the edges need to be about 2' out from the walls or cabinets to prevent shadows. If you have cabinets over benches put in under cabinet lighting. The older you get the more you will appreciate good lighting. I know, I'm older than dirt. I put down 2 coats of epoxy on my concrete floor and really like it. I had it tinted a very light tan color (matches the dust!) Makes clean up much easier. If you have any chip outs in the concrete they make epoxy filler for that.
Make sure the floor is absolutely clean before you paint. I rented a 20" floor scrubber and used Trisodium phosphate. Vacuum, rise, vacuum, rinse....

 

[DaninVan]

"Make sure the floor is absolutely clean before you paint. I rented a 20" floor scrubber and used Trisodium phosphate. Vacuum, rise, vacuum, rinse...."
-Larry
See my earlier comment re 'emptying the garage completely.' None of the renos are going to happen until Rick accepts that his loaded-up garage is the problem.
Denial ain't just a river.
Not being cruel, Rick, I'm just giving you tough luv, Buddy!

 

[Inor]

One shop has a ply floor, the other (garage) is concrete. Same stuff for both?

I think the epoxy would only be appropriate for the concrete shop. It is pretty easy to put down, the only advice I will give is to make sure the floor is dry dry dry before you put on the primer coat. They recommend letting it dry for 5 full days after washing it with water. I figured that since I live in the desert that 3 days would be adequate. I have had a couple places where I dropped a clamp in it and it has chipped. I am sure that is due to my own stupidity.

I like the stuff so much, I doing the floor in the Art Shack that I am building for my wife with it too.

 

[DesertRatTom]

Hiring someone to help unload the garage is a good idea. Much easier to insulate, wire, drywall when it's empty. And I agree, go with the fiberglass or similar insulation with paper backs. One weekend and it's in. Drywall is easy on walls, so's plywood of some sort. OSB is cheap and heavy as sin. Rent a drywall riser to do the ceiling. Save your back. LED hurts YOUR eyes, so get someting that works for you. Enough of the long standing joke. It's worn out and once you have it done, get going on the CNC. You have no idea how good you'll feel when you're up and running.

 

[mtlakejim]

We are in the middle of finishing out the interior of our shop (54x42 with 10' ceilings). We are going with standard fiberglass insulation in the walls covered on the bottom 8' by 4x8 beadboard panels. The beadboard goes up easily and is very durable. Relatively inexpensive but looks great (far better looking than plain plywood or even sheetrock) and can even be stained. It also happens to be fairly inexpensive. The 2' above the panels will be covered by tin that matches the roof for contrast (I have seen other folks doing this and it looks good but is inexpensive. The overall look is similar to "country chic" and looks great in a shop but isn't expensive. What is not to like about that!! One other great thing about the beadboard panels is they are sturdy enough to be taken back down and reinstalled a few times if you have to pull one to get to utilities for repairs. Then also hold electrical boxes and other light items nailed to them with no issues.

We are going with sheetrock on the ceiling (probably 1/2") with blown in insulation above that. Hard to beat the price or looks of sheetrock for a ceiling. I own a sheetrock jack which really makes installation a one-man job (although it never hurts to have extra help). I strongly encourage anyone considering doing overhead sheetrock work to get a sheetrock jack!! You didn't mention how close your rafters are which does make a difference BUT running your sheetrock in the opposite direction of the rafters will alleviate some of the tendency to bow and you can always add in nailers at the sheet's midpoint or as a last resort battens over the top (or underneath as the case will be) to further support the sheetrock.