Pat I just bought a Woodpecker table and I know what your talking about. Using the "T" handle is something I hope I will get use to. I have seen on the net that they use to make the lift with a crank handle that comes out the side. There is even a red plastic plug that I think is where it goes. I am going to call them tomorrow and see if they still make it. I think using a crank handle would be much better.
Woodpecker lift issues??
Guys, I bought this lift a couple months ago got it mounted in my existing table very nicely. My issues is that the tension inserts to stop the plate from lifting out had to be removed because I got it really tight. But now that I have been using it for a while when I adjust the lift up it wants to come out. Any solutions for this?
My second issue is probably just me but the ability to make small rough adjustments with the t handle are very crude and I spend way too much time with the fine adjustment wheel to get it right, Any suggestions?
My second issue is probably just me but the ability to make small rough adjustments with the t handle are very crude and I spend way too much time with the fine adjustment wheel to get it right, Any suggestions?
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Please let me know what you find out. The unit itself wasn't cheap to begin with and now having to buy something else to get some kind of control would be VERY disappointing.
It is issues like that, and more, that made me decide to just go with a router plate I lift out. It pops out, I can quickly, and easily, make any adjustments or whatever, then pop it back in and go.
Personally, if I ever decided I did want a router lift, I would adept a car scissor jack, and go with that. I believe that would be at least as accurate as any store bought lift - and loads less expensive.
Personally, if I ever decided I did want a router lift, I would adept a car scissor jack, and go with that. I believe that would be at least as accurate as any store bought lift - and loads less expensive.
Theo I have heard of people using a car jack. It might do a good job, they sure don't work all that good on cars. :surprise:
I have the Jessem lift with the crank out the side and have been using it for years and it sure beats lifting out the router like I used to do. Also have a Rockler lift on the other table and it has a crank from the top that works very well too.
The Jessem dial on the top of the table is graduated in 1/64ths and seems accurate, the Rckler dial is in 1/16ths so a little guessing is involved for smaller increments, but I have no trouble with either, better than in and out of the table to fine tune. Just my opinion, not trying to bash anyone else s,
Herb
The Jessem dial on the top of the table is graduated in 1/64ths and seems accurate, the Rckler dial is in 1/16ths so a little guessing is involved for smaller increments, but I have no trouble with either, better than in and out of the table to fine tune. Just my opinion, not trying to bash anyone else s,
Herb
I don't jack up cars, or mow lawns, any more.Theo I have heard of people using a car jack. It might do a good job, they sure don't work all that good on cars. :surprise:
Don, I have version 2 of this lift.
Don, I have version 2 of this lift.Pat I just bought a Woodpecker table and I know what your talking about. Using the "T" handle is something I hope I will get use to. I have seen on the net that they use to make the lift with a crank handle that comes out the side. There is even a red plastic plug that I think is where it goes. I am going to call them tomorrow and see if they still make it. I think using a crank handle would be much better.
You have to take the router out of the car first, before you jack it up, don't you ?I don't jack up cars, or mow lawns, any more.
I own a Bosch Router.
It is a plunge router and the base works both as a lift and as a plunge base. I use the "T" handle. I had the same issue as what was described with Woodpecker lift. I found out all I had to do was loosen the main clamp and then it all worked fine. The "T" handle seems to always have a little slack after an adjustment is made. However, the minute adjustment knob always takes care of that. I do not know much about the game of routing, but trying to learn.
I only do a routing fished product after i have tested everything on a piece of scrap wood of the same thickness that I am going to use.
I am always open to suggestions and looking forward to help. That is why I subscribe to this forum.
Thanks for all the help and information
It is a plunge router and the base works both as a lift and as a plunge base. I use the "T" handle. I had the same issue as what was described with Woodpecker lift. I found out all I had to do was loosen the main clamp and then it all worked fine. The "T" handle seems to always have a little slack after an adjustment is made. However, the minute adjustment knob always takes care of that. I do not know much about the game of routing, but trying to learn.
I only do a routing fished product after i have tested everything on a piece of scrap wood of the same thickness that I am going to use.
I am always open to suggestions and looking forward to help. That is why I subscribe to this forum.
Thanks for all the help and information
Pat I called them and that does no good. They said to send them an email stating your concern so that is what I did. You should do the same. Just go to their website and copy their email address and past it to your email. Be sure and mention that we are talking about this problem on the Router Forum. Doing this helps get problems solved because a lot of wood workers read this forum. Companies like Woodpecker don't like bad things said about them.Please let me know what you find out. The unit itself wasn't cheap to begin with and now having to buy something else to get some kind of control would be VERY disappointing.
You will find their email address here.
https://www.woodpeck.com/aboutus.html
The "Sidewinder" handle was discontinued a couple years back by WP. Not sure if it wasn't all that popular or all that reliable. You needed a good bit of distance between where the crank mounted to the lift an where the crank handle was mounted to the side of the table. The idea behind the spring loaded lift wrench is to simply get your bit close (or occasionally spot on) and then use the micro adjustment to zero in on your desired height.
In time and with use, the spring on the wrench seems to loose a little of its lifting power. At least mine has started to. But now thats after almost 7 years of use. I can't complain about that. The columns that the router rises and lowers on need to be kept clean. The tension inserts your having a problem with should be addressed to WP. When building my table/cabinet they were exceptionally helpful. Drop em a note or give them a call...
put "sidewinder" into the search engine here....several comments on it
In time and with use, the spring on the wrench seems to loose a little of its lifting power. At least mine has started to. But now thats after almost 7 years of use. I can't complain about that. The columns that the router rises and lowers on need to be kept clean. The tension inserts your having a problem with should be addressed to WP. When building my table/cabinet they were exceptionally helpful. Drop em a note or give them a call...
put "sidewinder" into the search engine here....several comments on it
What shape end is on the T handle?
I had a top adjusted router table but it needed a phillips screwdriver to adjust and it was a pain.
So I replaced the phillips screw head bolt with a 10 mm headed bolt and used a 1/4" drive socket on a speed wrench handle.
Using a Trend height gauge set to the correct height and resting over the bit, just turn the speed wrench untill the bit touched the gauge.
accurate and very quick.
I had a top adjusted router table but it needed a phillips screwdriver to adjust and it was a pain.
So I replaced the phillips screw head bolt with a 10 mm headed bolt and used a 1/4" drive socket on a speed wrench handle.
Using a Trend height gauge set to the correct height and resting over the bit, just turn the speed wrench untill the bit touched the gauge.
accurate and very quick.
Bob the handle is flat on one side toward the end. It works like a key, you insert it into the hole and push it down until it stops and turn it a quarter turn. The spring helps bring up to the top or any where you want to stop it. You then turn it back a quarter turn and remove it, then you make the final adjustment with the wheel. I took the spring off and put a little 3 in 1 oil on the rod and that helped to adjust it easier. I think with a little practice adjusting it will not be as hard as I first thought.What shape end is on the T handle?
I had a top adjusted router table but it needed a phillips screwdriver to adjust and it was a pain.
So I replaced the phillips screw head bolt with a 10 mm headed bolt and used a 1/4" drive socket on a speed wrench handle.
Using a Trend height gauge set to the correct height and resting over the bit, just turn the speed wrench untill the bit touched the gauge.
accurate and very quick.
seems over complicated to me, but as long as it works....
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