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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if you guys had any info for making your own table for this lift and plate combo? Thanks Pat
 

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I made my own table, and using the PRL-V2 lift in it. I first made an MDF copy of the plate. I did this by cutting a piece of MDF a bit oversized, double sided taped it to the plate, and used a flush trim bit on my old router table (very carefully) to make the copy. From that copy I made my own router template with a 1/4" spiral bit and a 1/2" OD template busing. Using the same bit and a 1" OD template bushing, I routed the opening for it in the table. I went a little deeper than the thickness of the plate so that I could level it with the set screws. Test your template on scrap to make sure you have all your sizing right.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mike, thank you for your response. What did you actually make the top from? Couple layers of 3/4 ply?
 

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I prefer mdf to ply for tops. Ply can have tension in it. Either one should be attached to a sub frame with cross pieces (like a floor joist system). No panel board is designed to stay level across a span. I've seen a lot of members have issues with warping when trying to laminate 2 layers together and I've never seen anyone have issues with one layer and a cross membered frame. I built one table with 5/8 melamine coated particle board and then I cut 3/8 deep grooves in it for t track and still had no problems but I made sure the grooves were very close or directly over the cross members. Using more material is usually not a good substitute for proper engineering to start with.
 

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Mike, thank you for your response. What did you actually make the top from? Couple layers of 3/4 ply?
Two layers of 3/4 MDF, edge banded it with maple (can be whatever hardwood you have on hand), then topped with formica. I didn't put anything on the bottom of it, and it is still flat as when I made it.

I prefer MDF to plywood for a router table as it comes flat, and the weight dampens vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Guys, thanks for the replies. The plate has a couple of brass pins in the side not giving it a flat surface to reference with the bushing did you remove and fill these somehow?
 

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I have the Incra plate on mine, so it didn't have these bump outs. However, if you make an MDF copy of the plate like I did, it would be easy enough to remove the bump outs from the copy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Mike for sticking with me on this. I'm going to make my own template and then using it produce the recess. The nibs I mentioned are fastened in with small allen key screws and removable. Hope get it done in the next couple days when time allows.
 
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