Work Bench

Double up on the top with either another layer of ply or MDF. I'd also put some 1x2 or 3 straight boards (trusses) under the table to help it stay flat. Double layer will also give a better grip for the dog holes. If you use MDF, make sure you pre drill for any screws you install into it. It splits and tears out easily. This double will be heavy, but that helps with table stability. If you use the plywood for the top, wax, wax, wax it. Glue drips from squeeze out leaves raised areas bumpy, and waxed surfaces are easier to clean off

If you want a renewable top, which is my preference, put a 1/4 inch thick high density fiber board (Masonite) on top and wax the heck out of it to keep glue drippings from sticking. Use some 1x around the edges set high enough to hold the replacable top in position and protect the edges. Maybe counter sink screws on the corners to hold it down. Don't glue it down.

Get a roll of brown craft paper and or a roll of 18 inch butcher paper (white) to work on when gluing or staning. It will protect the top from inevitable spills, drips, etc.

Put the outlet on the side of the legs, or mount under one edge of the bench top so the outlets face out. Be sure to use a cable clamp of some sort for the wire, and I'd use at least 12 gauge cable.

Assemble the whole thing, then drill the 3/4 inch dog holes. Later, you can mount the top on a custom cabinet and put in shelves and drawers as you wish. I put doors on all my cabinets, it helps keep the sawdust out.

The double ply structure is also strong enough to mount an end vise, and maybe even a side vise in the future. I would never put T-track in a workbench, it isn't that useful. You can get clamps that fit in the dog holes, add an end vise to use with dog holes to hold pieces, or mount the T-track on a separate piece of ply and pull it out when needed. You may find you don't want the T-track built into the table, so waiting to install them is your safe bet.

Tom - my workbench top is two sheets of 3/4" mdf. I drilled 3/4" dog holes all the way through. Here's a pic of the dogs I use. The brass one at the back is from Lee Valley. I bought the longer one labelled as "a" in the link from Lee Valley. You can see from the link that the bench dog has a "spring" attached so that it creates a snug fit. Having the holes go all the way through enables me to push up the dogs from underneath.

Veritas® Round Bench Dogs & Muzzles - Lee Valley Tools

The wooden one's I made from 3/4" dowel, glued into a piece of 1/4" plywood.

+1 on the 1/4" Masonite, tempered preferred as it holds up to "impacts" better, and the surface is smoother. Definitely wax, and reapply and buff periodically. Depending on the size, you may need additional screws in the center.

Don't know if you'll have access to the underside of the top, but you might want to look at making up some of these modified clamps, the ones sold by HF are good enough for this. I would put a thin nylon washer between the two parts so that it swivels easier, and just tighten the nut down until the parts don't wiggle.