New Router is Lonely - Needs Table Saw Big Brother - Router Forums
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Default New Router is Lonely - Needs Table Saw Big Brother

Very happy with my new Bosch 1617 kit. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions.

Now I'm looking for a table saw. The Bosch 4100-10 seems to have a good following here, but I'm also considering a mid-range cabinet model.

Grizzly and Shop Fox have saws in the 1100-1800 dollar range that have good reviews. I'm certainly not adverse to a used model. I have 220 in my shop so that's a positive.

I'll not need to cut 4x8 sheets as I can do that outside my shop with a circular saw. So an overly large table, while nice in thoughts, is not probably necessary. It would also be nice if there's potential to build an inset router table eventually to save some space.

Any suggestions and advice will be appreciated. It will be wonderful to do research while recuperating. Thanks.

Steve

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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by sgcz75b View Post
I'll not need to cut 4x8 sheets as I can do that outside my shop with a circular saw. So an overly large table, while nice in thoughts, is not probably necessary.
Maybe not necessary, but oh so nice on those nasty rain days, or in the dead of winter. I just wish I had enough space to do that. Big plus, wouldn't have to hunt long for a place to set your coffee cup.

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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 05:19 PM
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what ever you do, don't sell that 4100 short...
in and out feed tables are way more important than width...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 05:31 PM
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The most important thing to me on a table saw is the fence. I’ve used too many cheaper models that had terrible fences . At some point you get tired of banging the ends of the fence to get it square once it’s locked down .
So my first saw was a delta contractors table saw, but it came with a Biesemeyer fence .
Love that fence , as it’s pretty solid .

On my new general cabinet saw I have a really large wing , and I took the easy way out and mounted my pc690’s base underneath.
It’s basically for doing round overs, so I didn’t get to carried away , but I do intend on putting a proper plate in it someday.

I have the large fence , think it’s 56” , and regret it. If I did it again I’d buy the 36” fence , and just use my track saw to break down large sheets .

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 01-18-2019 at 05:35 PM.
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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It's too easy for me to open the garage door, take out saw horses, breakdown sheet goods using my circular saw with Emerson edge clamps (best I've found so far and so easy to use) than to have excess side-table on the saw that would go to waste.

My shop space is not unlimited, I don't like shops and setups that require acrobatics to get around in, I like a clean and organized space, and I also plan to have a 14-inch band saw as well.

Bigger is not always better for me. When I was in law enforcement there were always the guys that thought an S&W M49 44 magnum was what they needed until they discovered they couldn't handle it.

I try to keep my ego out of the way.

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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 07:25 PM
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It's too easy for me to open the garage door, take out saw horses, breakdown sheet goods using my circular saw with Emerson edge clamps (best I've found so far and so easy to use) than to have excess side-table on the saw that would go to waste.

My shop space is not unlimited, I don't like shops and setups that require acrobatics to get around in, I like a clean and organized space, and I also plan to have a 14-inch band saw as well.

Bigger is not always better for me. When I was in law enforcement there were always the guys that thought an S&W M49 44 magnum was what they needed until they discovered they couldn't handle it.

I try to keep my ego out of the way.
I like the way you think . Iím in the same boat , and my garage is very busy , especially since I started welding and used up more room yet .
Iíve gotten some great ideas from this forum , and will use them this year to maximize my limited room .
May just cut my fence down to 36Ē while Iím at it . I think the best thing I did was invest in a track saw. I hated cutting large sheets down before , but now itís a cake walk, and I can do super accurate cuts plus angled cuts
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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 08:27 PM
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I'm with Stick on the out feed table. I had one that was about 3 feet past the saw. It wasn't long enough so I replaced with one that is over 4 feet past the blade. Anything is better than nothing. If you need to keep the saw portable then hinge the out feed table to the saw so that you can lift it once it's in position. For the infeed you can use the roller stands but they don't work very well for the out feed. You usually wind up knocking them over before the board or panel gets over the top of it and starts rolling.

I also agree with the fence being a good one that locks securely and square. The old Rockwell Beaver saws were decent saws and had a decent fence although I replaced the one on mine with an Accusquare/Mule fence which is better than the OEM. I got the Rockwell for $100 from a friend and it came wired for 220.
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 08:33 PM
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Give the Laguna Hybrid saw a look. Has a motor that runs on 110 or 220. Fine workmanship. Flat table, easily set up or moved by one person. Ample power. Available in 36 and 54 inch models. Add an outfeed table. I love that saw. And, it comes with a Biesmeier type fence, heavy duty fence, very accurate. Sometimes on sale through Rockler for 10 percent off. Take a look at the heavy duty mechanics and construction of this saw, very well made. And did I mention FLAT! I picked mine up from Rockler, and one of the wings had a slight curve (about 1mm), so I called Laguna to see about a replacement. Their warehouse is about an hour away, so they suggested I bring the saw in so they can check on it. When I got there, they had a brand new saw set up for me. They used some machined stainless steel straight bars and used feeler gauge. One small area was off by 15 thousandths, which is flat by any standard.

I really like the quality of the fence. Even the miter gauge is pretty good. It is a very simple machine, I'd call it elegant.

And yes, the Bosch 4100 is a heck of a good saw. A friend of mine built a stand with a table exactly the height of the saw and it made a really nice unit.
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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
I'm with Stick on the out feed table. I had one that was about 3 feet past the saw. It wasn't long enough so I replaced with one that is over 4 feet past the blade. Anything is better than nothing. If you need to keep the saw portable then hinge the out feed table to the saw so that you can lift it once it's in position. For the infeed you can use the roller stands but they don't work very well for the out feed. You usually wind up knocking them over before the board or panel gets over the top of it and starts rolling.

I also agree with the fence being a good one that locks securely and square. The old Rockwell Beaver saws were decent saws and had a decent fence although I replaced the one on mine with an Accusquare/Mule fence which is better than the OEM. I got the Rockwell for $100 from a friend and it came wired for 220.
Chuck,
The thing I found with out feed rollers on stands is that if they are not exactly parallel to the table saw tables they will track the piece being cut either toward the fence or away. And when a person is feeding the material into the saw he surely doesn't want to fight the alignment of the board.
That and what you mentioned about tipping over.

Herb
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 11:16 PM
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Chuck,
The thing I found with out feed rollers on stands is that if they are not exactly parallel to the table saw tables they will track the piece being cut either toward the fence or away. And when a person is feeding the material into the saw he surely doesn't want to fight the alignment of the board.
That and what you mentioned about tipping over.

Herb
I tried rollers first for an outfield support . I believe they ended up in the dumpster , never again. I intentionally built my assembly table a little lower than my table saw in order to use it as an outfeed table . Thinking of following Mikes idea and making one that has a router built in , and has adjustable height .
I seen a great idea before for a temporary infield support . I’ll try to find it

Found the link . Thanks to Bill aka schnewj for the idea


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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 01-18-2019 at 11:28 PM.
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