Just bought the "economy" model Ryoba saw recommended by Jonathan Katz-Moses in his instructional video on using Japanese pull saws
As I find myself using a hand saw more lately when I need to cut a piece and it's easier to cut it by hand rather than dragging out the miter saw - but finding that the part sometimes wasn't cut as accurately as I needed - I've been looking for a reasonably priced saw that would give me good results. Based on his recommendation, I bought the "economy" model Ryoba saw https://www.amazon.com/SUIZAN-japane...language=en_US
listed in the video notes. Amazon delivered it today and I gave it a quick workout, both rip and crosscut, and it did very well - bearing in mind that I'm no Paul Sellers when it comes to using a hand saw.
I had a scrap of 1x3 about 15" long that I had used to check sharpness on a plane I was working on and had a taper on one side so I struck a line parallel to the good edge and ripped the tapered edge off, turned out OK for a first effort. Then I took some more of the 1x3, marked off a series of lines across the width and then kept cutting the end off. checking that I was keeping square in both directions, got better as I went along, although not automatic yet by any means. So, for $25, it's a pretty good saw, rip and crosscuts with no effort - it's sharp.
The blade is only 7" long so you would have to be careful about getting too enthusiastic cutting a bigger section, but for cutting 1X material it's perfectly good. I even laid out and cut a couple of tenons on the end of a piece of 2x4 (definitely need practice on that but...) and it did good on that too, cutting cheeks that were about 3-1/4" long - I'd squared up some 2x4's on another project and this was an offcut.
Definitely a keeper, as it's able to give even me a reasonable result. The company has a more expensive line, maybe $35 for the Ryoba instead of the $25 that I paid for this one. I didn't buy the Dozuki model as I have an inexpensive model that I've been using, but may take a look at the Suizan if I feel the need for a better saw in the future. The economy model Ryoba looks as if it's going to meet my needs for the moment although I may look at the other model if I find I need more capacity.
Did I mention that the teeth are sharp? Maybe too sharp, you just drop the edge on the corner of the 1X and the fine points on the teeth actually sink in a little, you have to be careful in the soft wood of the 1X. I'll have to dig out a piece of harder wood and see if there's any difference, maybe a little easier to get the cut started, but once you're in the kerf, all you have to do is keep stroking and let the weight (such as it is) of the saw do the cutting - although, with the way thinner saw plate, you really can't horse them in a cut. I would think though that you wouldn't be able to "steer" it as easily as you would a "Western-style" saw because of the thinner plate (.012" compared to .020" and up for a conventional saw).
I look at the prices Veritas charges for their dovetail and tenon saws (and they are by no means the most expensive brand out there - by a long shot) and see what I'm getting by comparison with these saws, and I'm amazed. Even if I decide to pop for the more expensive model, I'm way ahead of the game - and thinking that the technique with this type of saw, although a lot different, may be a whole lot easier to pick up.
Now I need to pick up a couple up a couple of 8' lengths of 1x and practice by turning them into 1/2" long pieces.