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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
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Default KatieJig.com's Katie Jig

The following details my experience with the Katie Jig (KJ), as purchased from Katie Jig Tool System - Make Dovetail Joints Simply, Easily, and Quickly!. I had previously purchase Marc Sommerfeld’s DVD on the KJ with the intent of purchasing one from him. The video is excellent and left me ready to pick one up, to see if it was as “hassle-free” as it seemed and as good as BJ and others bragged about on the forum. When I learned about the KatieJig.com web site, I noted there’s wasn’t Marc’s “new KJ” and that KatieJig.com was more expensive, I called each supplier to ask what differentiated their product from their competitor.
Sommerfeld’s talked to the gold annodization and some additional “tuning forks” included in their base unit that would be optional add-ons with their competitor. KatieJig.com talked to how theirs was made in America and Europe, unlike their competitor. Upon further inquiry, they provided CMT bits and the jig itself was made in America, from American aluminum suppliers and extruders. I ended up going with the KatieJig.com model, which is described and photographed here.
Upon receipt, I looked over the instructions that came with it and found them confusing, so I used the setup and operational technique demonstrated in Marc’s video. I had some spare scraps of maple lying around, so I figured I’d try and make a 4-sided box frame about 8” on each side as a learning process and then figure out how to make it work right from there. Imagine my surprise when it went together perfectly first try and with no test or practice cuts, something I’d not try with my Incra. With that under my belt, I decided to try and make a couple of drawers to go into my RT cabinet. The first drawers were to be about 16” wide x 30” deep x 4-1/4” high. Image #1 shows where they are destined to be installed. Image #2 shows the stock, cut to size. Image #10 shows the KJ with painters tape applied and marked per Marc’s recommendation. Image #11 shows setting the end stops, set so the other end of the stock is centered between tuning forks. Marc also demonstrates how to label the pieces to avoid confusion as to which end of the stock is cut on front vs. back and left vs. right stop.
Image #12 shows me setting the bit depth and #13 shows the first set of tails cut.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
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Images #16 – 19 show the tails setup and cut. Images #21 - #24 show the assembly and a detail of the joint. Pretty good for a first-timer, eh? This is the end of the KJ review, but I’ll go on to show the rest of the drawer construction.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
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For the bottoms of the drawers, I wanted “heck for stout” but didn’t want to waste any space in the material under the drawer, so I decided to try something I hadn’t seen before (though it’s surely been done by others). I decided to cut a 1/4” dado up 3/8” from the bottom of the bottom of the drawer. I’d then mount a sheet of ¼” (7/32”) Baltic birch in the slot when assembling the drawer and then attach another piece underneath the drawer bottom.

Images #25 to 30 show the assembly. Rather than wait for the glue to dry, I used my 23ga pinner with 1-3/4” pins as “clamps” to hold the frame together and 7/8” pins to affix the bottom (Images #31 & #32). Image #33 shows the glue to hold the “lower” bottom in place. Image #34 shows it in place, clamped with 3/8” pins shot in at angles to prevent movement while the glue dried. I immediately installed the side supports and installed the drawer (Image #36). If you look closely, you’ll see I finished a couple more drawers before the final picture.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 07:24 AM
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Nice review Jim...... I'm jealous
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 01:46 PM
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I second Bob N's post in both parts.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 05:05 PM
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Well done on both the project and the research on the jig. I'm a little green at the moment too!

EGO postulo , EGO venalicium , EGO incidere.
I measured, I marked, I cut.
Latin instructions for firewood.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks... I was pretty amazed at how well the pinner drove the 1-3/4" pins and just how tightly it held the dovetailed parts together.

I *also* learned that the pieces have to be well-abutted (no air space) prior to pulling the trigger. Those 23 ga pins have no strength if they pass through an air gap (duh!).

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 11:22 PM
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Very Nice Job Jim

You Did It

I will say you don't need to glue in the extra bottom panels, some 1/2" thick MDF with a wabbit will do the trick but if you have the extra plywood it will do the trick also..but down the road it may drop down and stop the drawer from going in and out once you put some weight on it.

Just a side note,,I see you forgot to put your stop blocks in place on your fence ,so you don't blow out the plywood slots .. it's no big because the drawer face place will hide them..

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Yes BJ.. I was lazy since It's going to be hidden and I figures the maple should still hold up. Right now the most heavily loaded one has my LV planes in it... to keep 'em protected until I finish this and build another cabinet.

I might add that I *highly* recommend the toaster clamps. With them, gravity is your friend.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 11:04 PM
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Hi Jim

hahahahahaha
"gravity is your friend " unless you are a bungee rope diver

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJimAK View Post
Yes BJ.. I was lazy since It's going to be hidden and I figures the maple should still hold up. Right now the most heavily loaded one has my LV planes in it... to keep 'em protected until I finish this and build another cabinet.

I might add that I *highly* recommend the toaster clamps. With them, gravity is your friend.



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