I agree, it takes practice to know how to apply Gorilla glue, If one has done a poor job of creating joints and uses Gorilla glue thinking it will solve gap problems one would be correct and that has nothing to do with the bonding strength of the glue.
I've been using Gorilla glue for about 14yrs for exterior bonding in particular. I do/did a lot of work on the ocean, none of the other glues have held up like Gorilla glue. This includes segmented load bearing columns, flower boxes, trim and for a lack of an appropriate term, applications, (wood on wood build outs to form 3D designs). For some reason I it has probs with high moisture areas, cold, salt, wind, and fir wood products in one of my work areas, Woods Hole Ma.
I love Titebond, I have and use II and III, I also use both versions of gorilla glue, along with epoxy and cyanoacrylate. I'D use PL 400 if wasn't so thick and spread resistant. I've done remodel work on houses built after 1985 where PL 200 and 400 is used to lock subfloor to joists.
I have segmented octagonal VG fir columns holding up a 14X 26 roof over a patio in the historical district facing the sound since 2003, I used Gorilla glue and biscuits to align and hold the seams together, they are still together. The previous contractor used Titebond III, biscuits and nails on a north side column rebuild, protected by the Inn less than 2 yrs earlier, the seams were separating and the nails were pulling away.
It could be an anomaly but I believe the area is a mean testing zone for materials.
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