Harbour Freight cutting guide - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Default Harbour Freight cutting guide

Tool: Pittsburg Clamp and Cut edge guide
Reviewer: BrianS
Tool Rating: 10

Clamp and cut edge guide


Purchased this recently to break down some plywood. I have to say that I am impressed with it. Clamps tight, and doesn't deflect when using it with my circular saw. Much better then the previous one I purchased in that this clamps to the edge, and not the face of the work with c-clamps.

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Last edited by BrianS; 07-19-2015 at 01:43 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 02:54 PM
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Thanks for posting this Brian. I've been considering several of the more expensive versions because a lot of HF clamps fail to stand up to 'real' use. Now I'm glad I haven't pulled the trigger yet.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 07:31 AM
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Brian, I have several of that style of clamps (by other manufacturers) in 24", 36" & 50" lengths. That style of clamp is really handy and we use them quite frequently in my shop.
Here is something that we do in my shop to make using these just a tad bit even easier:

Step 1. Determine the distance between the preferred side of your circular saw's "base" (up against said clamp) and your actual cut line.
Step 2. Rip a nice straight board that width - it must be thick enough that the saw doesn't "ride up on it". Label board accordingly.
Step 3. When you determine where you want to make a cut on your workpiece, put a mark at each end of the cut.
Step 4. Using one-handed clamps or C-Clamps temporarily affix new board to workpiece.
Step 5. Position Saw-guiding clamp up-against said board and clamp it in-place.
Step 6. Remove said board and make your cut! Note: for my circular saw that is used for sheet breakdowns, the board is 1.25" wide and 56" long.

I hope this helps you or some of the other readers...

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 07:42 AM
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Here's Jay Bates' homemade version. Still clamps on the faces, though.
Perfect Cuts With A Circular Saw Track | Jays Custom Creations
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 08:32 AM
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Default HF quide

I too contemplated buying one from HF last year. I read all reviews on tools that I purchase and some were not too favorable towards the 50" version. Reviews were mixed at best. I opted for the 24" since it was on sale. I wish that I had bought 1 more at the time because it became quite useful. Now I wish that they would offer a 36" version..Anyways, a few months ago, HF had a sale flyer that had a coupon that had the 50" for $14.99. I told my wife that I was going to try it since the price was lower. I bought it and was also able to use a 20% coupon on top of that. Sweet deal.. I've use it numerous times and find no issues with it. Works great. It's not as sturdy as the wider models, but cost wise, for what it's intended for, works great. No complaints here.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OPG3 View Post
Brian, I have several of that style of clamps (by other manufacturers) in 24", 36" & 50" lengths. That style of clamp is really handy and we use them quite frequently in my shop.
Here is something that we do in my shop to make using these just a tad bit even easier:

Step 1. Determine the distance between the preferred side of your circular saw's "base" (up against said clamp) and your actual cut line.
Step 2. Rip a nice straight board that width - it must be thick enough that the saw doesn't "ride up on it". Label board accordingly.
Step 3. When you determine where you want to make a cut on your workpiece, put a mark at each end of the cut.
Step 4. Using one-handed clamps or C-Clamps temporarily affix new board to workpiece.
Step 5. Position Saw-guiding clamp up-against said board and clamp it in-place.
Step 6. Remove said board and make your cut! Note: for my circular saw that is used for sheet breakdowns, the board is 1.25" wide and 56" long.

I hope this helps you or some of the other readers...

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia
Thanks for the suggestion Otis. This would be a LOT easier then measuring over from the cut line every time. I also need to either get a better quality blade, or put a zero clearance shoe on my cir saw.
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or by imbeciles who really mean it.

(Origin uncertain)
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2015, 01:43 PM
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Id like to buy some but: Purchase In Store Only. Not online.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2015, 02:23 PM
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Try here Joseph: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...de%2Caps%2C160

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2015, 03:23 PM
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I've have a store bought edge guide that has an adjustable clamp - it's the red and black lever seen in the picture. The clamp slides along the length of the guide to clamp different width material. However to use it you have to measure, mark, cut.

The other picture shows my homemade guide, set exactly to a specific saw and labelled as such. No need to measure and mark - line it up and cut. The material to the left of the guide is used to clamp the guide to the work piece. The strip at the bottom edge is underneath the guide and is used to square up the guide to the work piece. The material is 1/2 inch ply, and the guide is 1x2 poplar. Had all material on hand so cost was zero.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2015, 03:36 PM
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I lost the photo of it but I made a guide that is dual purpose; one side for the saw and the other was set for a 1617.

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