magswitch resaw guide. - Router Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Default magswitch resaw guide.

Rating 3.5 out of 5

I've been doing a fair amount of resawing lately and built my own resaw fence that works fairly well but in my quest to get even better resawing, I decided to buy this attachment to the magswitch base plate. I really like their feather board and use it all the time on my table saw. Well thought out and super easy to use. Fast setup. I use it all time, more than any other safety device for my table saw. I give it a 5 out of 5 rating so I was pretty much sold on the resaw fence and was thinking that I could switch between the feather board and resaw attachment with ease. The way it's designed, you can adjust for blade drift on the fly. At $26, sounded like a good deal.



The first disappointment was that there is so much assembly and adjustment that it's not practical to switch the fence with the feather board. I'll need to dedicate the base plate to the resaw fence and buy another for the feather board. Sigh. So much for a good deal. That $26 deal became a $46 cost. I guess I should have thought that one through. For what it's worth, they never SAID you could easily switch between the two. But, I hate being "incremented". I'll take a half point off for that.



Ok, so onward to assembly. Relatively straightforward though their instructions are pretty poor. No exploded view and not really very clear wording. Parts pictures did not exactly match what was in the package, either. Another half point off.

Got it assembled and mounted it on my bandsaw only to discover that the magswitches that are supposed to hold the base to the steel/iron table are a little too long and the whole assembly moves around when "locked" down. Ugh. I never noticed this before with the feather board in place because it wasn't critical for that application. But in a resaw fence, it absolutely is. I used 6 layers of blue tape to shim it up enough so the magnets pull the base plate tight against the table. Pretty disappointing that it doesn't just work. A full point off.



I will give them credit for having a halfway decent mechanism for adjusting the fence parallel to the blade. Especially since having to shim it, I made it a little off vertical. So, I got it ready to test out.

My first try didn't go so well but that's my fault for letting the bottom of the board drift a bit. So I clamped a piece of wood to the table to prevent that and resawed a 6" piece of alder. Nice clean job. Being able to change the angle of the board to account for blade drift allowed me to keep it within a 1/16" of my line. Not bad at all.

Then I resawed a piece of 7/8" bubinga. I have been dreading this as it's got some really nice grain and I didn't want to mess it up. I wanted to have 2 3/8" pieces for a box I'm making my wife for Valentines day so the stakes were kind of high. On one edge, I scribed two lines 13/32" from each side of the board. This gave me a 1/16" "channel" for the cut and 1/32" on each side to plane off. Not much margin for error here. With the new fence, I was able to stay between the lines and the cut was so clean, I am tempted to just scrape it down and call it good.

So, once it is set up, it is a really nice resaw fence. Since it works so well, I gave 1/2 point back. But, I really do hate it when a company has a great concept but misses out on some rather obvious issues. MagSwitch should look at Incra to see how it's done.

Even with all my complaints, I recommend this product for resawing. Once you get it working, it really does a good job.

MagSwitch Resaw Attachment 3.5/5.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 04:14 PM
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Thumbs up A review worthy of referencing

Excellent write up on the resaw guide Phil!!! This is exactly the kind of review worth looking back on as/when needed.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 04:39 PM
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well done write up Phil...
thanks...

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 05:02 PM
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Thanks Phil! My first attempt at re-sawing yesterday with the 555LX stock fence left a lot to be desired. It was nice and straight but with a two or three degree tilt. What a timely review since I'm on the fence (no pun intended) between MagSwitch, Carter, and just upgrading the Griz fence. You just added another plus to the MagSwitch column, good review!
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratbob View Post
Thanks Phil! My first attempt at re-sawing yesterday with the 555LX stock fence left a lot to be desired. It was nice and straight but with a two or three degree tilt. What a timely review since I'm on the fence (no pun intended) between MagSwitch, Carter, and just upgrading the Griz fence. You just added another plus to the MagSwitch column, good review!
Definitely ditch the griz stock fence for resaw.

One of the things I've learned about resawing is that blade drift is a real PITA. Not only do you need to account for it but it is dependent on the blade and changes as it wears. So you can't just set a fence to the blade drift and leave it. That's why the magswitch fence is so attractive to me. You don't need to determine the drift, just aim the board to cut straight.

Most resaw fences out there are straight (the carter one, for example). They require that you determine the blade drift and set the fence accordingly. I did that with my shopmade fence and it was a hassle. I have little patience for long drawn out set up processes. So I modded my shop made fence to allow me to angle the board - I screwed a 3/4 dowel vertically in the center. That gave me better results as I could aim the board in the direction the blade wanted to go (ie. it's drift). I bought the magswitch one because I thought the bearing wheels would help (they do). The pivoting cut fences really are a good solution.

I would first try to make one to get a better sense of it. Here's one that should work well and be easy to make. Similar to the fence I built.


If you buy the magswitch one and you don't have the magnets/base plate, you will need to get the switches and base plate plus the fence itself - that's about a $100 total. Kreg has an attachment to their band saw fence that is similar - all in cost is about $120. The carter mag fence is about $100. Funny how they all cost around the same...
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilBa View Post
Definitely ditch the griz stock fence for resaw.

One of the things I've learned about resawing is that blade drift is a real PITA. Not only do you need to account for it but it is dependent on the blade and changes as it wears. So you can't just set a fence to the blade drift and leave it. That's why the magswitch fence is so attractive to me. You don't need to determine the drift, just aim the board to cut straight.

Most resaw fences out there are straight (the carter one, for example). They require that you determine the blade drift and set the fence accordingly. I did that with my shopmade fence and it was a hassle. I have little patience for long drawn out set up processes. So I modded my shop made fence to allow me to angle the board - I screwed a 3/4 dowel vertically in the center. That gave me better results as I could aim the board in the direction the blade wanted to go (ie. it's drift). I bought the magswitch one because I thought the bearing wheels would help (they do). The pivoting cut fences really are a good solution.

I would first try to make one to get a better sense of it. Here's one that should work well and be easy to make. Similar to the fence I built.


If you buy the magswitch one and you don't have the magnets/base plate, you will need to get the switches and base plate plus the fence itself - that's about a $100 total. Kreg has an attachment to their band saw fence that is similar - all in cost is about $120. The carter mag fence is about $100. Funny how they all cost around the same...
Something wrong with that picture. The saw is opposite to mine. Mine has the column on the left ,not the right. Is that a British saw? for those guys that drive on the wrong side of the road?

About Drift. I set the drift every time I change blades, only takes about 5 min.

Take an old 1X4X 3' long and scribe a straight line full length. Put a strip of blue tape front and back of the table.
Freehand cut the line on the 1X4 carefully following the line to the halfway point. Stop don't move the 1X4 and shut off the saw. mark the tape on the same edge of the 1X4, this is the drift.

Remove the 1X4 and set the rip fence to the mark and tighten it down. All there is to it your fence is set for the drift on all cuts.

I have done this for years and never had a problem.

Sometimes when the blade is getting dull it will start following the grain of the board it is cutting and start to pull away from the fence, I stop and reverse the board end to end and cut from the opposite end.
If I get a bellied cut, either bellied out or in from the fence it is from the blade not having enough tension.

I use a Kreig fence without that center gizmo that you have to guide the board back and forth to maintain a cut. I hold the board tight to the fence and push,like a table saw.

Herb

Last edited by Herb Stoops; 12-30-2015 at 06:21 PM.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 07:11 PM
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Thanks for the review.

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 07:27 PM
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I love my magswitch feather board! I use it all the time. If something happened to it I would have to buy another one.

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb Stoops View Post
Something wrong with that picture. The saw is opposite to mine.

Herb
Herb - check the "start/stop" buttons in the picture- it's a mirror image.

Great explanation for setting blade drift.

Vince
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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wow, I just noticed that. The picture is reversed (stop/start on the button are backwards). That what I get for not studying the pictures I used.

My 1/2" resaw blade is wearing and the drift keeps changing. I got tired of having to set it up. If it works for you, don't change but I really like not having to bother.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb Stoops View Post
Something wrong with that picture. The saw is opposite to mine. Mine has the column on the left ,not the right. Is that a British saw? for those guys that drive on the wrong side of the road?

About Drift. I set the drift every time I change blades, only takes about 5 min.

Take an old 1X4X 3' long and scribe a straight line full length. Put a strip of blue tape front and back of the table.
Freehand cut the line on the 1X4 carefully following the line to the halfway point. Stop don't move the 1X4 and shut off the saw. mark the tape on the same edge of the 1X4, this is the drift.

Remove the 1X4 and set the rip fence to the mark and tighten it down. All there is to it your fence is set for the drift on all cuts.

I have done this for years and never had a problem.

Sometimes when the blade is getting dull it will start following the grain of the board it is cutting and start to pull away from the fence, I stop and reverse the board end to end and cut from the opposite end.
If I get a bellied cut, either bellied out or in from the fence it is from the blade not having enough tension.

I use a Kreig fence without that center gizmo that you have to guide the board back and forth to maintain a cut. I hold the board tight to the fence and push,like a table saw.

Herb

Measure twice, cut once and CROSS OUT THE WRONG MARKS.
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