Joat - you might be on to something - Router Forums
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-28-2016, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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Default Joat - you might be on to something

with your glue finish.

I took a scrap piece of pine - finished 1/2 of it with golden oak stain and left the other half plain. Then I put 4 coats of 50-50 Titebond II and water on the whole thing and set it outside in the sun (90 deg some days) for 3 weeks.

If you look close you can see the line where the stained side is. The plain side ambered up nicely and it didn't bubble, peel or do anything else out of the ordinary. It's not a real smooth or shiney finish but I think it's useable for some things. Then I got to thinking -- would this be suitable for kids wooden toys. The glue finish should keep them from splintering, be protective, and be non toxic.

Just a thought.



HJ
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-28-2016, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by honesttjohn View Post
Then I got to thinking -- would this be suitable for kids wooden toys. The glue finish should keep them from splintering, be protective, and be non toxic.


HJ
Seems like a logical assumption to me John.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-28-2016, 07:25 PM
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Hi John
I use a solution of watered down glue as you described quite often.
My mixture is 10:1 with Titebond II or III. By making it thinner I find it soaks in better.
I have a 2Lt plastic bottle of it ready to go all the time, just tip some into a container to use then replace the leftover back in the bottle. Remember to wash your brush out well with water after use or it will be glued up.
It is excellent for sealing timber before painting, particularly the raw edges of MDF.
Apply two or three coats, letting it dry hard between coats then finish with a fine sand, brings up a hard smooth finish ready for paint.
For the small parts of toys etc I put them in one of those mesh type onion bags and dip them in the solution being sure to move them as they dry so they don't stick together.
I also mix a small amount of water based paint with mine and it gives a washed effect which gets deeper with each coat, this is ideal when you are painting over timber with stains or dark knots etc.
We must experiment to have new methods
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-29-2016, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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So you can paint over it then?

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-29-2016, 11:13 AM
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Maybe it would work like shellac where you start with a 3 to 1 cut and then go to a 2 to 1 or a 1 to 1 gradually using a stronger mix? I'm not suggesting those mix ratios but the methods might work similarly.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-29-2016, 02:36 PM
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I've been using thinned Titebond II for years, usually about 50/50, sometimes down to at least 25/75. Mostly use on my canes, and quite pleased with the result. I would think you could paint over it, with some type of preparation, but have never tried, so can't really say. But I think if I wanted to paint over it, I'd try thinned Titebond II first, with color added, rather than regular paint.

My canes are all meant to be used, so the finish is plenty smooth enough as far as I'm concerned. And so far, has held up quite well.

And, if I want to glue paper down to wood, I find the thinned glue does well for that, soaks the paper, and when it dries, the paper shows the wood grain. You do have to be a bit cautious tho, when the paper gets soaked, if it is not quite where you want it, trying to shift it can tear it every easily.
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