Burning while ripping. - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Default Burning while ripping.

My blade is almost new and it's clean. The fence is straight with the blade but I am burning walnut and hard maple when ripping. Do you think a good ripping blade would help my problem. Here is a link to the blade I am using except mine is a 1/8" thick blade.

Freud 10" 40T 30 Deg Hi ATB Premier Fusion Thin Kerf Saw Blade P410T New | eBay

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 09:14 AM
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24~30 tooth TCG will make all the difference in the world..
also depends on the thickness of the material..
Freud Tools | 10" Glue Line Ripping Blade
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 10:01 AM
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What Stick said, that blade will help a lot.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 11:41 AM
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Before you buy a new blade, about the thickness of an index card, very slightly angle away your fence from the blade. This does not impeded the accuracy or precision of the fence, and what it does is take pressure off the work piece against the back of the blade. I have a similar blade as you do, and I do not get much burning.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 11:45 AM
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Not all 10" blades are meant to cut 3" deep, some only have a 1" depth of cut. Make sure that yours isn't one of those. When ripping you want a positive hook angle and very few teeth. More teeth equal more friction and require more power. They run a lot hotter in a heavy cut because the gullets are smaller and fill up quickly with sawdust which makes them even hotter. The blades on some of the Volkswagon powered small sawmills only had 4 teeth. I have that glue line blade that Stick linked to and it is very good. I also have an old thin kerf Freud with somewhere between 18-23 teeth and it is also very good but not as smooth as the glue line. It does make less sawdust and requires less power than the glue line blade which is the thickest and heaviest one that I own.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 01:11 PM
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The Freud blade Stick recommended and angling the fence out about 4/1000ths did the trick for me. Feed rate is also an issue, and so was switching from Gripper to push stick (hesitation in feed rate). Once I worked out how to switch the two smoothly, most of the burning was over. A strong dust collection system to help pull the sawdust out of the gullet can't hurt either.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 02:39 PM
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Don, the Freud blade you have should make clean rip cuts. Chances are you are moving a bit too slow on your feed speed.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-24-2016, 09:10 AM
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Could be that your saw needs more power. I notice that when I use my 1 hp belt driven saw for thicker wood I sometimes get burning. When I switch the blade to the 3 hp the burning stops. I mention belt driven because a lot of the saws out there are not belt driven but direct drive and right out of the gate you are sacrificing power.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-24-2016, 10:06 AM
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OK, it's been said that you need fewer teeth, which is correct. Not more than 24 teeth.

What hasn't been mentioned is that an auxiliary fence attached to your main fence between the blade and the fence will help immensely. This auxiliary fence only needs to go about half way (or less) into your blade. In other words, there is nothing between the back half of the sawblade and fence except air.

You can tell which end of your blade is doing the burning by looking at the burn marks. If it's both ends, then you need a sharper blade.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-24-2016, 02:22 PM
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+1 to what Stick said. I use the thin kerf version of that blade on a contractors saw. Works great. Both feed rate and even pressure on the work piece count. The other day I was ripping a piece of hard maple and half way through the cut I eased up pressure against the fence for a second and there was a burn mark where that happened.
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