Upper window sash repair - Router Forums
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Default Upper window sash repair

I need to fix an upper window sash, my house was built in 1912 as far as I know. The lower rail has pulled away on a few windows and have looked on line to see how to remove the sash, lots of paint over the years, and I will replace the rail with a piece of wood that is identical but fits snugly, meaning I will have to cut to fit the joint. My question is, what is the best word to use? Someone told me most use fir. I guess I would get some number 1 fir to do this, but am open to suggestions. Also, I suspect the side rail may be rotted a little so the part that connects to the bottom rail may be bad, don't know until I get into it. Any suggestions on how to remedy this? I am thinking to do this on the weekend. I know you guys won't let me down on advice as you guys are uber-knowledgeable! Hope I'm not getting in over my head. I have all the basic tools I would need, ....oh. What router bit would I need for the internal edge of the window that opposes the glazing? I could just use a bevel cut for now, but if the local stores have the bit would definitely want it. Thanks!

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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 10:43 AM
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Hey, Keith; D. Fir is a great choice.
You didn't say what kind of window system you have; can we assume they're double-hung?
A DIY How-to restore your Wooden Sash Windows Jacksoville, FL
1. remove the interior trim.
2. remove the interior stops
3. remove the parting bead
4. carefully remove the weights and sash cord... take pictures of how the cords are attached
5. remove the two sashes
Note the beveled faces where the two sashes come together when the sahes are closed.
6. strip all the paint from the frame channels where the sashes run up and down. I like to use a heat gun and sharp scraper for that part.
Don't bother trying to salvage the stops and cords; buy/make new ones. Parting strip is a standard molding profile.
As for the new sash(s), I'd be leaning towards getting a wood-door and window shop to make them up for me. Most of the profiles are cut with a shaper and I don't have one, nor am I willing to put out the cash for specialty router bits.
They'd end up costing more than new sashes.
Good luck!
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 11:32 AM
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Wood choice partly boiled down to what was locally available in generous supply and relatively inexpensive Keith. In some places oak was commonly used many years ago. D. fir is a good choice and it isn't usually too expensive. Dan covered everything else. If the old units are single glazed you might consider this an opportunity to upgrade to a new unit with double glazed which are far more efficient heating and cooling wise.
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Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, it is a double hung window with 2 panes in each sash. Here are pics of one of the windows.
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Keith
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 03:39 PM
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The painter must of had a wobbly ladder. Those paint lines are not very straight.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 07:49 PM
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Heh...some folks shouldn't be allowed near paint. Seriously, how much extra trouble is it to come back a day later with a sharp razor and clean up the edges?
I know some DIYers use masking tape but it's really faster, and cheaper, to just use a razor blade after painting is completed..
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 08:01 PM
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Picking up on what Charles said, those weight pockets on either side of the window are a horror when if comes to heat loss. There are a number of retro fitted spring loaded alternatives to the weight system.
They fit into the channels where the sashes run.
Tilt Pac Window Sash Replacement Kits | Marvin Windows
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Heh...some folks shouldn't be allowed near paint.
glad you see it my way...
I promise to never pick up a paint brush nor get near a container of paint... EVER...
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 08:54 PM
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+1 what Stick said.

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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2016, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, we had crappy painters, but they were hired by the GC so didn't have a lot of say, plus we weren't able to keep a good eye on them as we didn't live at the place at the time. They were terrible at glazing, hence terrible painting/wavy lines with wavy glazing. They didn't scrape much of the excess paint off windows too, I've gone back on some and cleaned up. My house has 36 windows so more than enough work!

On this same topic, I saw that 'This Old House' says to just dig out the rotten stuff and use this epoxy mixture to repair. Is this a bad idea? I don't know what is under the caulk that is liberally applied to fill the gap as the rail sagged, or as in the other window with no pic has pulled apart from the side rail. I feel even if I have to put a dowel in, it would be better than epoxy. I feel like that is just a bandaid and not a good idea.

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