Conquoring The Miter Lock Bit - Router Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Default Conquoring The Miter Lock Bit

I have written about my experiences with the miter lock bit on several occasions on this forum. While I have told of some of my successes, I have not, until now, quite been completely happy with the procedures that I have used.

Now, I know that many of the members of this forum have no problem what so ever doing a set up with their miter lock bit. If they have explained how they do it on this forum, I have missed it. For the most part, what I have read is how frustrating it has been to set the bit up. So, if I am describing what everybody knows, just let it pass, I'm only describing what I have just learned.

I suppose that the Infinity bit with their set up gauge is a good way to go. I have those bits and gauges but decided that there just has to be a better way in the event that a person wants to use a bit other than the Infinity brand.

I purchased a Whiteside bit some time back but not being able to spend time in the shop for several months I had never messed with it very much. Well, it has finally cooled down a bit and I'm feeling better so I decided to tackle the project once again.

The Whiteside bit that I bought is for material that is at least half an inch thick and no more than three quarters inch thick. In order to do the set up, the first thing I do is to measure the thickness of the stock, it makes no difference what the thickness is as long as it fits within the the above described parameters.

Once you know the thickness, divide that number by two which will of course be half the thickness of the stock. Next just eyeball the height of the bit so that it will cut within the parameters. Do the same with the fence and make a test cut.

The bit of course cuts a profile that is is 45 degrees to the face of the stock with both a male and a female indention and protrusion in that face or profile.

In order to get the height of the bit set correctly the point in the profile where the the male and the female parts of the profile come together or meet have to be dead center in the profile whick is the same as dead center in the thickness of the workpiece, so with your calipers you can determince if the bit need to go up or down and just exactly how much.

If you have a lift that has fine adjustments the setting is pretty simple, if you don't have a lift you need to mess with the height until the point in the profile described above is "dead center" in the 45 degree cut that the bit cuts.

In the absence of understanding this, you will fight the set up up until you are blue in the face as the saying goes, or so my experience has been. I suspect that most people know this, but it took me a long time for the fact to come into focus. It seems to me at this time that this issue is the only issue that needs to be understood and why it has not been communicated to me is a mystery. I probably have missed it along the way, but if everybody understands it, then why all the confusion??

Next, the fence needs to set so that the bit cuts as close to the edge of the workpiece as possible without cutting into it and reducing the width.

Once that is done you are ready to go.

I sure do invite any remarks and/or questions about what I have described, better yet, I would like for somebody to try what I have tried to describe and let us know what their results were.

Jerry
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 11:17 PM
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Default Lock Miter Bit

Hey Jerry,

I have talked to the guy who invented that little jig that infinity sells and he assures me that it works on 95% of all lock miter bits, especially the Whiteside. I have just purchased, both, the Whiteside bits (both) and the Infinity Lock Miter Jigs (both) but have not used them as of yet. Alan, the inventor, claims that it's dead easy to set it up using the jig...

I tried to post some links for you to take a look at but I don't have enough posts to do that. If you will PM me, I will pass them along to you that way.

I hope this helps and I will catch you up once I've tried it myself...

Paul
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 08:21 AM
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Jerry, great write up. Thanks for taking the time to do it. It will help.some of us wrap our head around this. I have decided it is a great joint to use when you have the time and patience to use it. Which for me is not very often.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gmcromp View Post
Jerry, great write up. Thanks for taking the time to do it. It will help.some of us wrap our head around this. I have decided it is a great joint to use when you have the time and patience to use it. Which for me is not very often.

Gary,
My sentiments exactly and is why I just had to find a way to do the set up quick, easy and perfectly accurately. Hope you find time try it and let me know what you think.

Jerry
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 12:01 PM
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Good to see that you are back in the shop again, Jerry. Looks like you thought long and hard on this subject and finally overcame the difficulties. Now all you have to do is remember all that. I think the key to it all is to do a lot of those joints and in different thicknesses of material until it gets automatic. It is a great joint both on edge grain and on end grain.
The one thing I found that helps on the fence is to use a zero clearance sacrificial board on the face of the fence so that the material doesn't snipe at the end of the cut..
To do that I slide the two sides of the fence apart, insert a short board the same thickness as the fence boards between the ends of the sliders and slide them back tight. With the bit set at the correct height snugly tighten one end of the fence and slowly rotate the fence through the bit all the way. It will cut a perfect profile of the setting in the sacrificial fence and the you can then set the fence the depth you desire for your cut. The end of your material will have full bearing all the way through the cut.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Good to see that you are back in the shop again, Jerry. Looks like you thought long and hard on this subject and finally overcame the difficulties. Now all you have to do is remember all that. I think the key to it all is to do a lot of those joints and in different thicknesses of material until it gets automatic. It is a great joint both on edge grain and on end grain.
The one thing I found that helps on the fence is to use a zero clearance sacrificial board on the face of the fence so that the material doesn't snipe at the end of the cut..
To do that I slide the two sides of the fence apart, insert a short board the same thickness as the fence boards between the ends of the sliders and slide them back tight. With the bit set at the correct height snugly tighten one end of the fence and slowly rotate the fence through the bit all the way. It will cut a perfect profile of the setting in the sacrificial fence and the you can then set the fence the depth you desire for your cut. The end of your material will have full bearing all the way through the cut.

Herb
Herb,

Yes, I sure did overlook the issue with the fence, guess that I sort of took it for granted that the sub-fence is needed. That was a serious over sight on my part and you sure did bail me out with with your description and photos, thanks.

Setting up the bit is so much like so any other things in life, it's so simple once you grasp the concept of what is going on. I'm anxious to hear from somebody that tries what I have found and see if they find the method to be as simple and eassy as I have implied tht it is.

Jerry

Last edited by Jerry Bowen; 10-08-2016 at 03:06 PM.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 02:14 PM
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Herb,

Yes, I sure did overlo. ok the issue with the fence, guess that I sort of took it for granted that the sub-fence is needed. That was a serious over sight on my part and you sure did bail me out with with your description and photos, thanks.

Setting up the bit is so much like so any other things in life, it's so simple once you grasp the concept of what is going on. I'm anxious to hear from somebody that tries what I have found and see if they find the method to be as simple and eassy as I have implied tht it is.

Jerry
Also as you can see in the pictures, I use a miter gauge set up for both operations by clamping a block to the miter gauge both the thickness of the material away from the fence and the same above the table. This makes it a fast and easy way to insert the material into the set up for multiple cuts both vertically and horizontally. Much better than free hand cutting the miter.
Herb
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 08:45 PM
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Herb, great tip on the fence insert...thanks.

Hi, sorry I missed you. I have gone to find myself, but if I return before I get back, please ask me to wait.

Nothing ever gets built on schedule or within budget.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 01:57 PM
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Glad you are able to get back to your shop Jerry! You seem to have this lock miter thing in the bag now!! Way to go!!

"Even bad decisions make good stories"

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Glad you are able to get back to your sh op Jerry! You seem to have this lock miter thing in the bag now!! Way to go!!
Thank You Reg,

I started a thread "More Chatter From Jerry" but no body has commented on it's content. I do see that several people have read it. To me anyway, what I say in that thread is pretty interesting. If you haven't looked at it you give it a try.

Jerry
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