Conquoring The Miter Lock Bit
I have written about my experiences with the miter lock bit on several occasions on this forum. While I have told of some of my successes, I have not, until now, quite been completely happy with the procedures that I have used.
Now, I know that many of the members of this forum have no problem what so ever doing a set up with their miter lock bit. If they have explained how they do it on this forum, I have missed it. For the most part, what I have read is how frustrating it has been to set the bit up. So, if I am describing what everybody knows, just let it pass, I'm only describing what I have just learned.
I suppose that the Infinity bit with their set up gauge is a good way to go. I have those bits and gauges but decided that there just has to be a better way in the event that a person wants to use a bit other than the Infinity brand.
I purchased a Whiteside bit some time back but not being able to spend time in the shop for several months I had never messed with it very much. Well, it has finally cooled down a bit and I'm feeling better so I decided to tackle the project once again.
The Whiteside bit that I bought is for material that is at least half an inch thick and no more than three quarters inch thick. In order to do the set up, the first thing I do is to measure the thickness of the stock, it makes no difference what the thickness is as long as it fits within the the above described parameters.
Once you know the thickness, divide that number by two which will of course be half the thickness of the stock. Next just eyeball the height of the bit so that it will cut within the parameters. Do the same with the fence and make a test cut.
The bit of course cuts a profile that is is 45 degrees to the face of the stock with both a male and a female indention and protrusion in that face or profile.
In order to get the height of the bit set correctly the point in the profile where the the male and the female parts of the profile come together or meet have to be dead center in the profile whick is the same as dead center in the thickness of the workpiece, so with your calipers you can determince if the bit need to go up or down and just exactly how much.
If you have a lift that has fine adjustments the setting is pretty simple, if you don't have a lift you need to mess with the height until the point in the profile described above is "dead center" in the 45 degree cut that the bit cuts.
In the absence of understanding this, you will fight the set up up until you are blue in the face as the saying goes, or so my experience has been. I suspect that most people know this, but it took me a long time for the fact to come into focus. It seems to me at this time that this issue is the only issue that needs to be understood and why it has not been communicated to me is a mystery. I probably have missed it along the way, but if everybody understands it, then why all the confusion??
Next, the fence needs to set so that the bit cuts as close to the edge of the workpiece as possible without cutting into it and reducing the width.
Once that is done you are ready to go.
I sure do invite any remarks and/or questions about what I have described, better yet, I would like for somebody to try what I have tried to describe and let us know what their results were.