how to unseize - Router Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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In all those tools I got recently was a bosch POF50 router with plunge base.

Problem is the base is well and truly plunged.
Its been left fixed down to its lowest point for god knows how many years. The 2 steel plunge bars go through an alloy plate that holds the router.
One of the bars is seized solid inside the alloy.
Ive tried wd40, large hammer blows, blowtorch heat, and combinations of all three all to no avail.
I need to get sneaky or else this alloy will just break.
Help please.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 02:23 AM
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You need a penetrate (?). I've had it from people I respect that half and half acetone and light oil, something like sewing machine oil, is the best there is. Just have to shake it up immediately before using it, because it separates.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 02:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnybob View Post
In all those tools I got recently was a bosch POF50 router with plunge base.

Problem is the base is well and truly plunged.
Its been left fixed down to its lowest point for god knows how many years. The 2 steel plunge bars go through an alloy plate that holds the router.
One of the bars is seized solid inside the alloy.
Ive tried wd40, large hammer blows, blowtorch heat, and combinations of all three all to no avail.
I need to get sneaky or else this alloy will just break.
Help please.
listen to Theo...
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 04:57 AM Thread Starter
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Its apart.
All I have now is wd40 and the shops are all closed.

I'm afraid I resorted to what I know best.
If a big hammer doesnt work, get a BIGGER one.

Had to hammer the rod out through the base, then I could hammer the rod back and fore repeatedly untill it seperated.
All I have to do now is straighten the alloy base plate.

It wont be good enough for sign routing, but it will do any general stuff.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 08:06 AM
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Next time try PB Blaster or put it in a box along with a 100 watt light bulb (if you can find one Thank you very much Obama) and leave it there over night.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 08:42 AM
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Bob...first chance you get, put some PB Blaster and Tri-flow dry lube on the shelf.

Avoid wet lubricants for normal maintenance and use the dry instead.

Alternatively, wax the pistons for normal maintenance.

On re-assembly, make sure the base is good and clean and smooth...you're likely to have some crud left from the "operation"...

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 09:03 AM
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I don't know if it is available, but Kano Kroil or Silikroil are our go to penetrating oils for impossible jobs.

Penetrating-Lubricating Oils

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnybob View Post
Its apart.
All I have now is wd40 and the shops are all closed.

I'm afraid I resorted to what I know best.
If a big hammer doesnt work, get a BIGGER one.

Had to hammer the rod out through the base, then I could hammer the rod back and fore repeatedly untill it seperated.
All I have to do now is straighten the alloy base plate.

It wont be good enough for sign routing, but it will do any general stuff.
Bob, WD 40 stands for Water Displacer formula #40. It was never meant to dislodge frozen bolts and nuts. It's not particularly good as a lube either. Our log truck drivers love the stuff in the winter when their brake light and scale pad connections get contaminated with salt spray from the roads and start shorting out. A good healthy spray of WD40 cleans them right out. I've heard it's made from fish oil.

I hope you are able to get the router going again. How are the springs after being compressed that long?

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Charles, yeah, i know about wd40, but it was literally the only thing I had on the shelf.
Since giving up motorcycle building 2 years ago, all my other metal related products have either run out or dried up.

Wd40 used to be made from light machine oil and LPG, but the health police made them take out the flammable gas.In that mix it was a very good bolt loosener due to the LPG aggressively eating its way through the rust, But it was never intended as a lubricant or water proofer. I really dont know what they use now.

I was amazed that the springs are still good. As far as I know the previous owner hasnt used these tools for 9 years. They have been fully compressed for that time. Once everything was cleaned up and given a rub over with engine oil during rebuilding everything works fine. the springs easily hold the router at the top of the shafts.
The router works fine.

The base suffered. its no longer dead flat. but as I say, fine for all but the most exacting work.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 04:38 PM
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I wonder if a newer model would have the same bolt pattern? I can't see that thin piece of plastic being that expensive.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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