Wireless Remote for Dust Collector - Router Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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Default Wireless Remote for Dust Collector

I could use your help and/or suggestions.

I have the Harbor Freight 2hp dust collector. It is in a bad spot for starting and stopping. At one time, I hooked up a cheep wireless remote and it worked OK for several months. Then it quit.

The problem is the motor is rated for 20 amps. I had an electrician run a dedicated 20 amp service just for the DC. I also cobbled up an extension cord with a 20 amp ON/OFF switch.

The switch is mounted to the work bench, which is also my outfeed table and assembly bench. If you look closely at my pictures you will see that I only have a short run of PVC pipe/flex hose. One end is connected to the table saw dust port. A second blast gate is positioned so I can hook up to the portable tools (planer, drum sander, jointer).

What I would like to do is figure out what I can replace the ON/OFF switch with. Note that I don't want an iVac remote because I hook up to more than one tool. At least I don't think that is my solution.

I have seen several videos of people building their on remotes that operate a relay to start the motor, but most are 220v. Mine runs on 110V.

Edit: The reason I want to replace the ON/OFF switch is I want to build a new work table and take up part of that room in between the saw and the bench. The switch works just fine where it is but I would like to replace it.

Any ideas appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 08:19 PM
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I use a cheap wireless remote but it is only good for 10 or 15 amps so I use it to energize a 120 volt contactor (relay) rated for 30 or 40 amps and it applies & removes the 120Vac to my HF dust collector & I just leave the DC power switch on all the time. I clip the remote pendant to my shop apron so it is always handy no matter where I am in the shop.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 08:23 PM
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I have the same DC, and have been using the Long Ranger remote for 3 years without even changing the battery. It is rated for 20 amps, at least mine was--don't know if they've changed that. The signal is Omni-directional too, which means I don't have to aim it at the receiver. Garage is 36 x 24, and with the DC on the far wall it is within range. Receiver is mounted 10' above floor, feeding from the garage door opener outlet (dedicated 20 amp for opener was there--if I open the door the DC probably won't be on!!) Not cheap, but seems to work.

earl
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvman44 View Post
I use a cheap wireless remote but it is only good for 10 or 15 amps so I use it to energize a 120 volt contactor (relay) rated for 30 or 40 amps and it applies & removes the 120Vac to my HF dust collector & I just leave the DC power switch on all the time. I clip the remote pendant to my shop apron so it is always handy no matter where I am in the shop.
I like that idea. However, I am kinda dumb when it comes to relays/contactors and such.

Did you mount it in a box? Pictures would be great.

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by greenacres2 View Post
I have the same DC, and have been using the Long Ranger remote for 3 years without even changing the battery. It is rated for 20 amps, at least mine was--don't know if they've changed that. The signal is Omni-directional too, which means I don't have to aim it at the receiver. Garage is 36 x 24, and with the DC on the far wall it is within range. Receiver is mounted 10' above floor, feeding from the garage door opener outlet (dedicated 20 amp for opener was there--if I open the door the DC probably won't be on!!) Not cheap, but seems to work.

earl
I like that idea also.

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 10:56 PM
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My dust collector is hooked up to a wireless system , but it was blowing the resettable breaker as it couldn't take the amperage draw of the DC .
I used a relay that I bought at an electrical distributor , that is actually called a Contactor for some weird reason , and it works great .

I'm not sure of this is what your after, a way to take the draw off the switching unit ?
If it is , I will take mine apart and get you pics and a explanation of how it's wired

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvman44 View Post
I use a cheap wireless remote but it is only good for 10 or 15 amps so I use it to energize a 120 volt contactor (relay) rated for 30 or 40 amps and it applies & removes the 120Vac to my HF dust collector & I just leave the DC power switch on all the time. I clip the remote pendant to my shop apron so it is always handy no matter where I am in the shop.

Me too!

http://www.routerforums.com/kp91s-ga...uild-30-a.html

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by RainMan 2.0 View Post
I used a relay that I bought at an electrical distributor , that is actually called a Contactor for some weird reason , and it works great .
Rick, they are called contactors because before the advent of solid state, they were were big mechanical lumps with large magnets that energised moving "contact" arms to make or break.
Basically very large NVR switches like this;
https://www.google.com.cy/imgres?img...act=mrc&uact=8

Mostly nowadays household sizes are all plastic non moving parts which is why they are called relays.


Mike, do you really need a remote?
my dust collector is wired with two wall switches, one each end of the workshop, wired just the same way as an upstairs hall light is operated from the top and the bottom of the stairs. Its possible to wire three switches into the circuit and put them wherever you want. That way I never have to "go find" the remote, or worry about battery life.

Last edited by sunnybob; 11-25-2016 at 12:52 AM.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 01:46 AM
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Me, I don't like remotes much, figure just one more gadget that will screw up. So, I do it the old fashioned way. Something like what you have, I would have a long cord, then plug it in when I wanted to run it, unplug it when I didn't want to run it. Very reliable.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 03:49 AM
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I did exactly the same as Bob.
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