Jointer Blades Just Got Easier - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Default Jointer Blades Just Got Easier

I have been fiddling with my jointer trying to get another set of blades installed for my wife's project coming up in a couple days. I just need to buy the wood. I thought I had the blades set right but the top was off. Turns out the top was right and the blades were off. I bought some Fein vac bags the other day for my vac which were the wrong ones so I took them back to Woodcraft and while I was there I bought a jointer gauge called the Oneway Multi-gauge. What a great tool. I figured out I was trying to set the jointer blades without it and I was all wrong. I previously hated to change jointer blades. That is all gone now with this new gauge. This is going to be quite a time saver. And I know it is done right.
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Last edited by coxhaus; 11-27-2016 at 06:45 PM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 11:10 PM
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Lee the gauge will give an idea of how much knife there should be exposed above the head but in the end the primary adjustment is having the blades level to the outfeed table. I lay a flat piece of hardwood on the outfeed table and tighten the blades to it so that I just touch the hardwood without moving it ahead as I rotate.
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Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
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Using the gauge you can measure the outfeed table and set as 0. I then move the gauge over the blades and set them at 0 also. With the base still on the outfeed table, I then pulled the base and gauge from one side to the other so I could read across the knife edge to make sure the whole blade was 0. I was within .002. One of the blades was .000 across the whole blade to the outfeed table. I found that I was not able to be this precise using a board or ruler. The gauge gives me confidence and precision for the setup. I think it is a lot faster than using feeler gauges. The trouble I had with feeler gauges is you are using a flat piece of steel on a round object the cutter head which seemed to cause me problems. On my jointer the outfeed table needs to be .060 above the cutter head so you need to adjust the outfeed table. There were many times when I tightened the blades down and I would be .010 or more out on one end. I would then loosen the blade and start over. It took me a couple of hours to get the blades set right.

The first thing I tested was to make sure the outfeed table and the infeed table were coplanar. I used a 48 inch straight edge, level, to make sure the tables were flat to each other across the whole length of the planer and to make sure I did not have any high corners. I then set my 0 mark on the scale and set the maximum up device.

Last edited by coxhaus; 11-28-2016 at 12:24 AM.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 12:33 AM
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Sorry Lee, I didn't look closely enough at the photo. That gauge should zero out the blades relative to the out feed table. All the gauges that came with my planing type heads are a U shape and just set the blades relative to the head itself. I use the hardwood board setting method and it may be necessary to raise the outfeed a couple of thou after to compensate for the compression of the blades against the wood. If set perfectly a board when half jointed should set flat on both infeeds and outfeeds with no gaps at either end or the next to the blades.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Yea, the gauge is really nice. The more I looked at it the more I realized how nice it is. I hate messing with jointers. They just don't seem intuitive to me.

I am going to resaw some aromatic cedar to line my wife's drawers bottoms. I would like to joint the board before I resaw them to get a flat side.

Besides I had a refund on my shop vac bags at Woodcraft with nothing to buy.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 10:25 AM
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This video shows a home-made jig for setting jointer blades, total cost about $10.

Jointer Knife-Setting Jig - FineWoodworking

I have one of the commercial versions with the magnetic bars joined by rods which works very well, probably paid $20 or so for it a few years back.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 11:47 AM
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Thanks, Tom! That couldn't be easier.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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The magnetics look like a good idea especially for the Powermatic planers which have the springs under the blades. Have you ever put a gauge on them after setting up the blades?

How do you set your cutter head to the outfeed table?
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 12:38 PM
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You level the table to the cutter. You just have to make sure the blades are co planar with the table and not low or high on either corner.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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My Delta manual has you test the distance from the cutter head not the blade to the outfeed table. Maybe so the blade is not sticking out too far from the cutter head to break off. I don't know why. Maybe some of the experts know.
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