6" to 4" reducer for dust collection - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 12:33 PM
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gents: I did not make those fittings. The link was sent to me by another woodworker.
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post #22 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by furboo View Post
@coxhaus I haven't come up with a 6x4 reducer, yet.

I'm still debating whether I want to go the SDD route. The SDD XL comes with a 6" hookup, so at least with that you avoid the 6x5 reducer. See

https://www.oneida-air.com/inventory...-E5F28583241B}

My problem with the SDD is cost and the increase in height of the overall DC, which I'd like to avoid.
I am not sure you will have enough static pressure with the SSD XL. They recommend a minimum of 3 HP. I am worried using 6 inch pipe on the small SDD with getting clogs because it is built for 5 inch pipe. Velocity will slow down in the larger pipe hopefully not enough to clog the bigger pipe. My 2HP Baldor motor pulls 24 amps on 110 so I am on the upper end of the smaller SDD.
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post #23 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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gents: I did not make those fittings. The link was sent to me by another woodworker.
Sorry about that, Ray.

Rob
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post #24 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by coxhaus View Post
I am not sure you will have enough static pressure with the SSD XL. They recommend a minimum of 3 HP. I am worried using 6 inch pipe on the small SDD with getting clogs because it is built for 5 inch pipe. Velocity will slow down in the larger pipe hopefully not enough to clog the bigger pipe. My 2HP Baldor motor pulls 24 amps on 110 so I am on the upper end of the smaller SDD.
Thanks Lee, I didn't catch the 3HP recommendation...does it say that on the website somewhere? All I found is:

The XL cyclone can be used to retrofit nearly make or model dust collector with a 6" diameter intake. This inlet size is typical of 3HP to 5HP single stage dust collectors by manufacturers such as Delta, Harbor Freight, Grizzly, Jet, Powermatic, Shop Fox, etc., but horsepower isn't as important as the actual air volume moving through your ducting.

We recommend an operating airflow of at least 850 CFM for the XL cyclone to effectively separate 99% of debris from the airstream.


I believe I get a bit better than 850 CFM with my current 4" piping and a 2HP motor, and I'm hoping that'll improve with 6" pipes.

Rob
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post #25 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 01:23 PM
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My understanding is about 550 CFM is the max for 4 inch pipe. You can over pipe and lose velocity to where the big chips will not move through the larger pipe and cause clogs.

You are correct it is airflow not horse power. But it is not just CFM but also FPM. It is a combination of CFM and FPM which creates a good DC.

My other understanding is you are better on the high side, maximum through put, of a cyclone than on the low side. You get better fine dust removal on the high side of a cyclone because the fine dust is thrown harder against the side of the cyclone to fall down rather than pass through.

This is all my understanding which could be completely wrong because I am no expert. It is just what I have read the last month.
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post #26 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 02:00 PM
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Yeah, searching around on acceptable diffuser angles, it looks like a about a 7 degree expansion (from the centerline to each side) should work ok. For a 2" change in diameter, I get about 8-1/4" long (minimum) for the transition. The longer the better. Herb's idea of riveting up a bigger stove pipe sounds good.
Rob ,the sheet metal section is a good place to search for reducers. As another idea is to drop in at a local sheetmetal shop and have one made for you, most shops will do that for a reasonable price.
I found that nothing fits in this business, hoses ,pipes, machine ports,fittings , are all close,but not close enough to work. I have seen where guys use tin cans to make connections. I finally went to stove pipe, you can even make a long taper with it.
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post #27 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by coxhaus View Post
My understanding is about 550 CFM is the max for 4 inch pipe. You can over pipe and lose velocity to where the big chips will not move through the larger pipe and cause clogs.

You are correct it is airflow not horse power. But it is not just CFM but also FPM. It is a combination of CFM and FPM which creates a good DC.

My other understanding is you are better on the high side, maximum through put, of a cyclone than on the low side. You get better fine dust removal on the high side of a cyclone because the fine dust is thrown harder against the side of the cyclone to fall down rather than pass through.
This makes sense, Lee. 4" PVC would make things a lot simpler and cheaper.

Rob
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post #28 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 03:57 PM
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Rob try https://www.oneida-air.com/ they have several reducers.

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post #29 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 03:58 PM
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@furboo

Not sure if you'd make ur own. But I've done a couple cone like shapes
down the road some using this place:

(Truncated) Cone template | www.templatemaker.nl

Enter in the dimensions and you'll get a pdf to print out.
Pretty handy especially when I had to make barrel rings not too long ago.

This one for branches is cool too but it has a price tag

Pipe Joint Template Online Software
http://www.harderwoods.com/pipetemplate.php
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post #30 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 04:19 PM
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I just got back from a DC class at Woodcraft today. I learned an interesting fact. If you reduce down from 6 inch to 4 inch you need to have 2 open 4 inch ports open at a time. There will not be enough air flowing for the 6 inch pipe from one 4 inch pipe to flow the 6 inch pipe. This is for my size motor and fan. I have a 2 HP motor and 12.25 inch fan. So I need to add a Y pipe and another 4 inch reducer.
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