Glue stain on maple & cherry? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 01:59 AM Thread Starter
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Default Glue stain on maple & cherry?

I'm using black iron pipe on my pipe clamps. I get the black stain on the wood under the clamp where I don't get the glue cleaned off.
Titebond I is the glue type.
I don't know if it's the glue reacting with the wood &/or metal that makes this black stain. It may be something in the "wild cherry" since it seems to be dark & leech out on the maple where the cherry is.
Anyone ever have "Titebond" do this?
Maybe I could put some paste wax on the clamps?
Black iron pipe was Lowes, China I think.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 03:10 AM
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Dave, put a little waxed paper between the wood and the black pipe. It shouldn't stick to the glue.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Good Idea .
I was thinking of paste wax on the clamps also may work. Less of PIA.
Wonder why the cherry wood is doing this? very acidic? reacting with the PVA glue (base)
Planer has got most of the stains off so far so it's not too deep.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 04:25 PM
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HI Dave

Wax paper works great or butcher paper works very well also but the best way is to keep the pipe off the stock,, with the home shop clamp ends,,just put the stock flat and the pipe clamps over the top of the stock...if you need to clamp both sides then use the wax paper over the pipe
They work very well without buying the high ends ones..


I should note that you can buy the plastic end caps but they don't lift the bar that high, you can make them a bit higher than you see in the snapshots,, the higher the better to a point... the last ones I made where 6 1/2 " x 6 1/2" ...



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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogydave View Post
Good Idea .
I was thinking of paste wax on the clamps also may work. Less of PIA.
Wonder why the cherry wood is doing this? very acidic? reacting with the PVA glue (base)
Planer has got most of the stains off so far so it's not too deep.


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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 05:46 PM
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Hi,

It's not the wood that's giving you the problems nor the glue. Black pipe is prone to do this. Grab it with your bare hand and your hand turns black. Black pipe or gas pipe as its known, is cheap and causes more problems than what's it worth. Down the road, you'll encounter flakes of rust falling of that pipe as well. Just another stain waiting to happen.

Best to use galvanized pipe.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 05:56 PM
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You know Hamlin you are correct BUT I have gotten black spots using my Jet and Bessy parallel clamp's so sometimes the reaction is from the wood and or glue, it must be or where is it coming from?
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Yea, the wax paper idea seems to be the simplest cheapest fix.
Have been using the distilled white vinegar/water mix trick (bj3), it cleans the glue quicker/better than just water.
Nervous & hyped up today, Steelers have to play the Ravens to get to the Super Bowl. (Steeler fan since, well forever.)

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 07:49 PM
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The Steelers are making some stupid mistakes, you should be nervous. I am 15 minutes behind DO NOT TELL ME WHAT HAPPENS!

I am lucky I just run my glue ups through the drum sander.

Water works fine on the Titebond III no vinegar required at all. As good and inexpensive as Titebond III is I just do not get why anyone would use yellow glue or anything else for that matter, unless a special application requires it.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 07:50 PM
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Putting painters tape on the pipe or bar works also.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Mike
I like the masking tape idea, Good one. Won't be slipping off & replace as needed.
Thanks

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