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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Default Simple drawer

Would a drawer like the one shown be strong if glued and nailed?

It is pretty simple and I know it would not be as strong as a dovetailed joint. But if made out of 1/2 inch Baltic Birch, which is stable, I wonder with our modern glues, if this wouldn't last a long time.

I would buy a drawer lock bit, but I have heard that there is tear out issues.

Thanks

Steve Bolton
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 08:25 PM
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hello Steve,

as someone with very little experience, dont you think more drawers are destroyed by overloading (100lbs. lol)than joints failing. i think that larger drawers are the most at risk because of holding more weight. just the view of a inexperienced wannabe,lol

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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I actually don't know, but I know glue is very good these days. I suppose it would be reinforced with a dowel.

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 08:34 PM
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how big is the drawer youre thinking ob building? at least my retoric will keep bumping your post up til someone can answer more definitively. dam, i didnt think i was gonna be able to spell that when i got about half way through!

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 08:40 PM
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Steve
Drawer design will work fine.
Type of wood, size & type of glue determine the strength.
Plywood is strong & tougher to glue well but works fine if you have smooth joints.
I don't use nails if glueing, clamp until dry. Nails with glue; nails are only to hold it till the glue dries. (was taught that in shop class many years ago & with better glue now, I don't use nails in drawers) Screws if anything, they will hold the joint tighter until the glue dries and be stronger if the glue joint fails.
Wood movement will also have an effect, I've learned to coat all sides equally with what ever finish you use so the wood moves evenly from both sides.
Yes will work fine, I have some with this simple design that have ben in use for 30 + years & the glue today is better(Just don't use them as a step stool)

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Probably 8 inches high and 20 inches deep. I would put a drawer slide on it, which might also help the drawer last a long time.

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 08:43 PM
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PS
nails & screw can split the plywood, drill pilot holes in the plywood & try to hit the center ply

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 08:44 PM
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Rhetoric

You don't need a drawer lock bit, you can do a simple drawer joint with just a 1/4" straight cutter or a table saw, even without a dado set. Just takes more passes.

Tounge and rabbit joint.

Or you can use biscuits and cut the slots with a slot cutter or a biscuit cutter.

Or dovetails

Or boxjoint

Or, or, or...

It does sort of depend on how big and how much weight the drawer is expected to hold. Whatever joint you choose, remember to think about how forces are going to act on the drawer. Not just gravity, but what happens when the drawer is full and somebody yanks on the pull? You want your joint to be oriented to counter act that force and also the force as all the junk goes sailing to the back of the drawer (thanks for that Mr. Newton).
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 08:47 PM
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Hi SB

May I suggest ,, see below,,,most drawers can't take the pulling or pushing of the user ,,,in and out,,the glue and nails will work just fine but it needs to use the wood (joint) in the right way

========== ********
Just a note for Norm,, ,,,,you ask what the jig is for, it's just a snapshot that slipped in the group,,it's a jig to make door panels on the table saw... it has nothing to do with the simple box or the joints for them.
I did add some more snapshots, to show how to make it and how to use it on the table saw..

I will say ,,using sliding dovetail joints ,,, no need for nails or screws,just a little bit of glue,, plus you don't see the joints the norm..the dovetail joint can be cut off the front part of the drawer once it's glued up so the drawer can side in all the way.. , it's best to cut off a little bit of it and use a trim bit to get it flush with the side of the drawer...

====

Quote:
Originally Posted by S Bolton View Post
Would a drawer like the one shown be strong if glued and nailed?

It is pretty simple and I know it would not be as strong as a dovetailed joint. But if made out of 1/2 inch Baltic Birch, which is stable, I wonder with our modern glues, if this wouldn't last a long time.

I would buy a drawer lock bit, but I have heard that there is tear out issues.

Thanks

Steve Bolton


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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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BJ, when you indicate "cut off as needed" does that mean cutting the front so it is a flush drawer. I should not be, but I was a little confused by your drawing on that issue.

SB
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