table saw blade selection - Router Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
First Name: pascal
Posts: 57
 
Default table saw blade selection

Since the router and table are in the mail I'm focusing on the table saw for a bit!

I picked up a TS2410LS 10" table saw and am looking to pick a few blades for it. I don't mind having a few blades, but am not looking to go crazy.

so two questions:
(1) for particle board, MDF and plywood does rip VS cross cut make a difference? not sure why it would, worth asking though.

(2) blade recommendations?
rough:
I figure the 24T blade included is good for brute ripping and cross cuts (2x4s, rough plywood for subfloors etc.

nice stock:
I would like a nice rip blade and a nice cross cut blade (see one I got on markdown below).

general use:
nice combination blade.

When I picked up the saw they had a 1080X freud blade with a yellow sticker - never opened. needless to say I bought it without looking it up. it's an 80 combination tooth blade. I'm under the impression its a solid cross-cut blade that can also be used for melamine and plywood.

thanks for the help! everyone has been awesome answering my newbie questions!
blurry is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 11:13 PM
Retired Moderator
 
Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Country: United States
First Name: Mike
Posts: 11,921
 
Send a message via Skype™ to Mike
Default

You are correct about the blade being for cross cutting with a nice finish. Laminated products cut the best with a tooth set at a different angle but this blade should be adequate for your purposes. As far as a good combination blade that can be left on the table most of the time Freud makes a 50 tooth combo blade that is my favorite. Do not try cross cutting with the 24 tooth blade, you will be wasting your time. 24 tooth blades are meant for ripping only.

Mike
"Living in the D" (this means Detroit!)
"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"
Mike is offline  
post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 11:35 PM
Registered User
 
Bogydave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Country: United States
First Name: Dave
Posts: 440
 
Default

Buy a 2 good quality combo blades.
One on hand, one to send in & get re-sharpened.
I found if you have several speciality blades, the one you need is never on the saw & you have to change it or muttle trough with the one thats on the saw.
Combo's that do it all relatively well will get 90% + more use.

Life isn't right, wrong or fair. Life just is.
Bogydave is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 11:47 PM
Registered User
 
Bogydave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Country: United States
First Name: Dave
Posts: 440
 
Default

Saw blade test data: year or more old though

http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/pdf...The-Retest.pdf

Life isn't right, wrong or fair. Life just is.
Bogydave is offline  
post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
First Name: pascal
Posts: 57
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogydave View Post
Buy a 2 good quality combo blades.
One on hand, one to send in & get re-sharpened.
I found if you have several speciality blades, the one you need is never on the saw & you have to change it or muttle trough with the one thats on the saw.
Combo's that do it all relatively well will get 90% + more use.
I like that approach - how much of a quality difference is there?
blurry is offline  
post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 01:38 AM
Registered User
 
Bogydave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Country: United States
First Name: Dave
Posts: 440
 
Default

I bought a Grizzly table saw a year ago. I was using the blades I could get locally at the box stores. I had scratch marks in the wood & the blades wern't "true" & after a few weeks use it was evident that the blades got dull quickly. I sucked in a big gulp of air & ordered a Forest WWII. WOW. The difference was amazing to me. I know I had spent over $100 on several blades, had them sharpened locally for X$. I have had the Forest on the saw for 8 months or better & it still cutting better than some of the new local bought blades. I'm doing my own test, leave it on for everything (mdf, plywood, 2" construction stuff) but NO junk & treated wood to see how long before I need to change it, but so far it still cutting great. I'll definitely send it in to get it re-sharpened when the time comes.
No scratch marks, totally glue-able surface, Rips 4/4 & 3/4 oak, cherry, maple. It shows no teeth or cutting marks that I notice. (I rarely sand the edges anymore & when urethane's applied I see no saw marks)
When the time comes I'll buy a new one, put it on & send in this one for sharpening.
From what I've noticed, the forest WWII combo 40 tooth standard kerf, is worth the $.
http://www.librawood.com/forrestwoodworkerII.aspx
I've heard good things about the Frued Fussion but never used one.

Quality difference? Night & Day! Truely. IMHO (PS don't brush against the teeth when installing, or keep band-aids close)

Life isn't right, wrong or fair. Life just is.

Last edited by Bogydave; 01-28-2009 at 01:54 AM.
Bogydave is offline  
post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 07:53 AM
Registered User
 
Charles M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Country: United States
First Name: Charles
Posts: 312
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blurry View Post
(1) for particle board, MDF and plywood does rip VS cross cut make a difference? not sure why it would, worth asking though.
Technically, there is no rip or crosscut with sheet goods. Any blade grind can be used but HiATB works best for plywood and laminates. If you are cutting with the grain of plywood veneers the grind selection is less critical. Particle board and MDF are more abrasive than solid wood so a more durable grind like Triple Chip is best when blade life is a consideration. The D1080X that you purchased should be a great all around choice for fine crosscuts as well as for the sheet materials.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blurry View Post
(2) blade recommendations?
rough:
I figure the 24T blade included is good for brute ripping and cross cuts (2x4s, rough plywood for subfloors etc.

nice stock:
I would like a nice rip blade and a nice cross cut blade (see one I got on markdown below).

general use:
nice combination blade.
I think you are on the right track for the blade that came with the saw. It wil llikely make a good blade for general ripping but for finer work and glue ups you will either need a jointer to finish the edges or a Glue Line Rip blade. The Freud version of the GLR is the LM74R010 (full kerf) or the LM75R010 (thin kerf).

If you have a really good crosscut/sheet goods blade and a GLR blade you will probably not need a combination blade unless you just hate changing blades.
Charles M is offline  
post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-28-2009, 03:07 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Country: United States
First Name: Bob
Posts: 253
 
Default

I have a Forest Woodworker II which I like a lot. I also bought a Forest Chopmaster for my miter saw, another great blade. Both cut very well and leave a very smooth edge. They are expensive, but I feel are worth the money.
Regards,
rstermer
rstermer is offline  
post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-28-2009, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
First Name: pascal
Posts: 57
 
Default

seems that the WWII keeps coming up. might just drop the $$$s and focus on learning how to work with wood instead of how to sand.

thanks!
blurry is offline  
post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-28-2009, 10:20 PM
Registered User
 
dovetail_65's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Country: United States
First Name: Dovetail
Posts: 1,610
 
Default

My vote is for the Forrest WWII as well.
dovetail_65 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
"Lo-tech" table saw blade alignment simplenik Tools and Woodworking 4 04-10-2009 12:27 PM
New router, need table, building dovetail cabinets santana157 General Routing 7 02-02-2009 11:34 PM
Table saw blade guard? Birch Tools and Woodworking 1 04-21-2007 11:56 AM
Table saw blade and adjustment ? rh111 Starting Off 1 11-27-2006 08:31 AM
Table Saw Blade Replacement Del Delaplante Starting Off 3 09-27-2005 05:42 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome