Track Saws - Page 15 - Router Forums
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post #141 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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It's not 300.00, those tops are 75.00 and if you don't cut through what's the point? it's just MDF I make them with or without my cnc for about 20.00.

I am over the MFT 's they are just not worth it FOR ME. I used them for years and as I said over it. I will be selling mine off soon enough.

I own more parf and Qwas dogs(I feel Parf totally stole the idea, in fact i know they did) than I care to count. With my new shop the MFT table are on their way out and I will be building a much better cut table for my needs. I was there at the beginning, probably one of the first in the US to even own an MFT, I bought one the day they first became available in the US, then the MFT3. I am just over the entire flimsy over priced scheme. I love certain Festools, the MFT not so much. If you live in an apartment an MFT might be for you, but that's about it.

This is what I think of my giant MFT:
The MTF is a $500 Table Festool charges $900. I like some Festool products.

I’m not interested in getting drunk on green koolaid either. Bosch has some better products in their line-up.

I love to make pretty things for pretty little things
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post #142 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 07:01 AM
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Correction. The triton's longer track is 59 inches long, which is sufficient to cut the BB stock I generally use. Old eyes mistook the nine for a four.

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post #143 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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Correction. The triton's longer track is 59 inches long, which is sufficient to cut the BB stock I generally use. Old eyes mistook the nine for a four.
Triton is almost identical to the Makita. The Triton has better tracks and locking knobs, the Makita has more power.

If only the two could get together to build the ultimate track saw.

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post #144 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 07:34 PM
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Well that is why I use the Festool tracks with my Makita, I am not sure what the Triton is compatible with, but if they work with Festool tracks I would just get those.

Makita is due for an upgraded track saw that is for sure, if this goes another 2 years they will be left behind.
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post #145 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 08:07 PM
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I would love for the tracks saw makers to create a table like this or for "trim a table" make an attachment so track saw tracks can attach to it AND make it for plywood, (who knows maybe it already exists).

This is the Trim-A-Table™ 50, a circular saw guide with integral angle table used for aluminum siding. I would like to use it as a large plywood miter saw.

It seems to me it could be a simple thing to take their simple miter mechanism, attach it to a track saw track and make the table larger to accommodate plywood.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZBwmjGArDk

Van Mark TAT50 Trim-A-Table Saw Table from BuyMBS.com
This is reminiscent to the old craftsman cutting jig of 20 some years ago. The angles were not that accurate one of the first jig I ever bought soon was replaced by my Rockwell radial arm saw. It was also used by many for cutting siding.
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post #146 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 08:29 PM
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Yeah I remember that. I think today they can improve the precision, maybe making it work to within .1° movements.

It's just thought, I mean I can drag the sheet to saw horse's, chalk a line and cut so really my idea for what amounts to a huge sliding miter saw table would be a luxury.

Say someone has to make cuts on 100 full 4x8 sheets in 4 hours and every single cut was either 90, a 45, a rip, a 22.5 just a mess of all different angles, even angles from corner to corner on a full 4x8 which would be 108" cut.

I envision being able to toss on a full sheet and making these cuts simply by rotating the track(or the miter mechanism that the track attaches to) so that it clicks in at any angle we want. The ply wood have to be able to be slide back and forth laterally and any other method to allow us to start the cut anywhere along the 96" length of the plywood. And again cut any angle from ripping a sheet 96" lengthwise to cross cutting 48" and any angle in between in .1° increments for a full sheet. We load sheet, adjust starting point of cut, lock in angle,run the saw across the track, cut, pull ply off and reload, line up the ply start edge, rotate to your angle, lock it in and cut again, etc etc.

For me this would be the ultimate plywood worktable. How would we design it, not sure, but those aluminum siding set ups saw I was linking to might be a good start.

Last edited by dovetail_65; 09-22-2017 at 08:35 PM.
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post #147 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 10:49 PM
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Yeah I remember that. I think today they can improve the precision, maybe making it work to within .1° movements.

It's just thought, I mean I can drag the sheet to saw horse's, chalk a line and cut so really my idea for what amounts to a huge sliding miter saw table would be a luxury.

Say someone has to make cuts on 100 full 4x8 sheets in 4 hours and every single cut was either 90, a 45, a rip, a 22.5 just a mess of all different angles, even angles from corner to corner on a full 4x8 which would be 108" cut.

I envision being able to toss on a full sheet and making these cuts simply by rotating the track(or the miter mechanism that the track attaches to) so that it clicks in at any angle we want. The ply wood have to be able to be slide back and forth laterally and any other method to allow us to start the cut anywhere along the 96" length of the plywood. And again cut any angle from ripping a sheet 96" lengthwise to cross cutting 48" and any angle in between in .1° increments for a full sheet. We load sheet, adjust starting point of cut, lock in angle,run the saw across the track, cut, pull ply off and reload, line up the ply start edge, rotate to your angle, lock it in and cut again, etc etc.

For me this would be the ultimate plywood worktable. How would we design it, not sure, but those aluminum siding set ups saw I was linking to might be a good start.
So, you have a lazy-susan bearing (over-simplification, you need something with a little more precision but there are a lot of options out there) - the bottom attaches to the top of the Festool hinged bracket off the MFT, and the track/rail attaches to the top - there's the pivot mechanism. Having the hinged bracket lets you adjust for material thickness as well as lift up the track to slide material underneath. If you want 1° increments, an Incra miter gauge might be the first idea, but thinking it would have to be scaled up because of the size of the pivot assembly, maybe something on the order of the Rockler Cross-Cut Sled. As far as the 48" cross-cut, my arms aren't that long, something in the 24" - 30" range seems more practical. Assuming the pivot is at the rear of the table, and the fence is parallel to the fence, you could set the angle manually each time referenced off the front edge - not fast buy maybe OK if you're not changing angles with each cut. Then there's the problem of locking the angle in, which would almost have to be done at the pivot. Detents may get complicated, so probably looking at some type of clamping mechanism.
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post #148 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 03:37 AM
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@dovetail_65 The point of a tracksaw is you can place the track anywhere you want. Clip two lengths of track together, you get 118 inches of track, more than enough for a full diagonal cut on 4x8 ply sheets. What I'd want is a solid table so I could throw the sheets on it, and then make a set of simple jigs, each with a precisely cut angle I needed and some sort of overhang like a speed square. I'd make the jigs large enough to easily aligh the track.

Sounds like you're talking about roofing, where you would have pretty predictable angles. Tossing ply onto a feeble table and moving around to preset angles would be asking a lot of anything buy a really hefty steel construction, or it would become inaccurate very fast. Make it of aluminum and the weight would be better for portable use, but very expensive to make the top rotate. I have no idea how much lateral force is applied to a table when you toss a 4x8 shet onto it, but I bet it's substantial enough to break joints down over time.

I think a very solid table and using angle setting jigs for the track is more likely to get the job done. I guess you could attach a clamp of some sort to the jig so it stays put might also help,.

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post #149 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 08:28 AM
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@dovetail_65 The point of a tracksaw is you can place the track anywhere you want. Clip two lengths of track together, you get 118 inches of track, more than enough for a full diagonal cut on 4x8 ply sheets. What I'd want is a solid table so I could throw the sheets on it, and then make a set of simple jigs, each with a precisely cut angle I needed and some sort of overhang like a speed square. I'd make the jigs large enough to easily aligh the track.

Sounds like you're talking about roofing, where you would have pretty predictable angles. Tossing ply onto a feeble table and moving around to preset angles would be asking a lot of anything buy a really hefty steel construction, or it would become inaccurate very fast. Make it of aluminum and the weight would be better for portable use, but very expensive to make the top rotate. I have no idea how much lateral force is applied to a table when you toss a 4x8 shet onto it, but I bet it's substantial enough to break joints down over time.

I think a very solid table and using angle setting jigs for the track is more likely to get the job done. I guess you could attach a clamp of some sort to the jig so it stays put might also help,.
@DesertRatTom

That's kind of what I was thinking when I said to set the angle from the front, except I was thinking more about one of those large digital angle gauges - having a large jig for a number of angles would be cumbersome to handle and store (I believe Dovetail said that he only worked out of his shop so carrying them to a job site wouldn't be a problem). But, walking down the hallway to my computer this morning, it hit me - this is an MFT top, so you can drill holes in it and use Parf Dogs for angle stops. I don't know about 0.1° increments (although I do have an idea about that), but it would be pretty easy to have a row of holes along the front edge of the bench at the "common" angles - 90°, 45°, 22.5°, etc. You would need a drilling jig similar to the Parf, with the 3 mm hole in the center, and the OD identical to the collar on the Parf Dog. Pivot the track to the required angle, butt the drill jig up against the back edge of the track. clamp in place and drill the 3 mm pilot hole. Switch to the Parf Jig and drill the 20 mm hole - you now have a positive stop for the pivoting track at the required angle. And you can use the clips sold by Axminster (and now TSO Products) to hold the track tight to the tall Parf Dog - I have these and they work really well, a nice tight and solid connection.

Now, if you want "infinite" angle adjustment, you have a machine shop make you a part - picture a piece of flat bar the same width as the collar on the Parf Dog with the one end machined to the radius of the collar, and a post the same diameter as the reduced section of the Parf Dog located at the center of the end radius. The length of the part should allow for a couple of clamps. Using your Digital angle gauge, set the angle on the track and clamp it in place. Butt the combination stop against the back edge of the track and clamp it in place. Unclamp the track and you're good to go.

I made a "quickie" fixture for cutting the gable end siding when I was doing my garage - a "one time" assembly, but it worked out pretty well. Don't think though that I could cut panels at the rate of one every 2.4 minutes though.
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post #150 of 175 (permalink) Old 09-24-2017, 12:14 AM
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MY mistake is not starting a new thread called the ultimate plywood cut station.

A clamp is used to hold two parts together, yet people attach them to tables, sleds and use them in thousands of way they were never intended. SO why can't i use a track saw any way I want?

I initially got the idea for the ultimate plywood cut station or table when I was using a panel saw and wished I could just pivot the thing to make a 45°, or a 22 °. or any angle really. I simply thought making it a horizontal table could be simpler and hey why not use a track saw to do it. I never said this is going to replace the traditional method of using a track saw. Basically all I am proposing is a horizontal panel saw that cuts angles, the track was a means to an ends, nothing more.

I do not understand the resistance to the idea, there are loads of large, stable, shop, cut tables that people use to cut ply. They are not as safe, accurate, precise or as fast as what I propose. Just because you don't have a use for it doesn't mean it's not a cool idea For Me.

I have owned a track saw since the day the first one became available in the US, at least in my area. I know the purpose of a track saw is. If I haven't owned one longer than 98% of the USA people on the site I'll be surprised. What you are missing is "the point of a track saw" is whatever I want the point of it to be to make my work better.

I felt you threw me a dig, why say "the point of a track saw is". If it's not a dig then to me it's a short sighted view. Ill use a track and make the point of it anything at all. I have thick skin, but wasting my time making posts while I can be working is not smart for me. I'll stay with helping newbs with issues.

I should never even brought it up in the thread, my mistake. I'll think long and hard before I post a topic for a new certain type clamping table I have had trouble designing. It's just tiring getting my point across.

Last edited by dovetail_65; 09-24-2017 at 12:21 AM.
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