I do like MDF ,, I do hate the PB ,,,
I do use the OP box joints jigs
,,I also put in dovetails in the MDF but not the blind type, they like to snap off easy..
" drawer-lock joints" = don't work well in MDF or any other man made wood,they work well in real wood
( tree stock
One other joint that works great in MDF and plywood is the sliding dovetail joint,it's easy to put in and in this way you don't need to add a front to the drawer..once you make the box is done so to speak...1/2" for the sides and back and 3/4" thick for the front of the drawer..in that way you can put a nice edge on the front if want...
The norm for me is the sides and back are 1/2" x 4" tall and the front is 3/4" x 6" tall..in that way you can hide all the joints..all with one bit...
quote=thistlefly;98728]Thanks, Bob. It's a measure of how long I've been away from woodworking that MDF was not in common use before my "lapse."
I tend to automatically associate it with particleboard, which is not at all fair (or correct).
I'll probably use solid wood for the fronts and plywood for the carcasses, just to maintain the thought of "practicing" for non-shop furniture.
On the front joint, box joint would mean false fronts versus the use of drawer-lock joints with solid wood fronts. I remember seeing a thread debating strength of joints... where do drawer-lock joints stand in comparison to box-joints?
(BTW, haven't even used my Oak Park spacers yet, and I bit on the latest Rockler sale on the "original Incra jig..." so half-blind dovetails are also an option now!
Thanks again, BobJ-