Dan Pattisonís Custom MPT aka MFT - Router Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Default Dan Pattisonís Custom MPT aka MFT

The MPT design from Dan Pattison looks very cool. His design looks like a great alternative to dropping a grand on the Festool MFT/3.

I have to do some more homework. Iím not sure if Dan made his own top or if he used the Festool MFT CNC top for his design. It definitely shows some ingeniuity vs relying on Festool to deliver a solution.


What do you guys think of Dan Pattisonís MTF design?

I love to make pretty things for pretty little things

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Steven Owen View Post
The MPT design from Dan Pattison looks very cool. His design looks like a great alternative to dropping a grand on the Festool MFT/3.

I have to do some more homework. Iím not sure if Dan made his own top or if he used the Festool MFT CNC top for his design. It definitely shows some ingeniuity vs relying on Festool to deliver a solution.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qL6fyzeY0Nw

What do you guys think of Dan Pattisonís MTF design?
Stevin he has some good ideas but I really don't care for the legs. They look awful flimsy.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 01:19 PM
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Stevin he has some good ideas but I really don't care for the legs. They look awful flimsy.
Well, pipe, so could be strong enough. But I don't really care for the look of them, and most definitely don't care for the fastenings - looks like there is wiggle room, and they will eventually work loose. If I were going to make one I'd make nice sturdy legs too.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Well, pipe, so could be strong enough. But I don't really care for the look of them, and most definitely don't care for the fastenings - looks like there is wiggle room, and they will eventually work loose. If I were going to make one I'd make nice sturdy legs too.
The cost of the Parf jig a bitter pill to swallow unless you can justify the fact it will be used a 2nd time to make a replacement top over time.

You can buy the Festool CNC top for less money online than you can buy a PARF jig.

UJK Parf Guide Drilling System - Lee Valley Tools

I love to make pretty things for pretty little things
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 04:25 PM
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The cost of the Parf jig a bitter pill to swallow unless you can justify the fact it will be used a 2nd time to make a replacement top over time.

You can buy the Festool CNC top for less money online than you can buy a PARF jig.

UJK Parf Guide Drilling System - Lee Valley Tools
Yoikes. Fortunately, or unfortunately, I don't have room for my shop for a table like that, so don't have to worry about buying a jig. However, if I did have the room, and wanted a table, I wouldn't buy a jig, I'd make one. Even if you outsourced the welding, it would still be low cost, and pretty simple - as long as you get the measurements right. But for a one-time use, I'd likely just make one from wood. with metal/pipe guides.

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Some days, the supply of available curse words is insufficient to meet my demands.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Yoikes. Fortunately, or unfortunately, I don't have room for my shop for a table like that, so don't have to worry about buying a jig. However, if I did have the room, and wanted a table, I wouldn't buy a jig, I'd make one. Even if you outsourced the welding, it would still be low cost, and pretty simple - as long as you get the measurements right. But for a one-time use, I'd likely just make one from wood. with metal/pipe guides.
If you have a CNC, you donít need one.

Youíre paying the big bucks for the CNC for the Parf Dogs. It would be easier to buy the Festool top in Danís design. Youíre pretty much burning away a perfectly good day of your life trying to manually drill perfectly square Parf dog holes into a large top.

Danís design is using a thinner leg so the table is lighter and easier to lift and transport onsite. Heís been using the same table in all of his videos for the past several years. Thicker doesnít = stronger. A thinner leg made with a strong steel or aluminum should be more than adequate.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 09:07 PM
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Stupid question.... do the holes need to be spaced with such accuracy? (Alright, I am cheap....)

You could lay out your grid using a sheet of peg board as a template $6

General drill guide (3/8 chuck) $35
General Tools Drill Guide and Chuck-36/37 - The Home Depot

20mm (or whatever size your dogs are) Forstner bit $9

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/w...m-forstner-bit

About $50, and you can use the tools for other projects as well.

OOPS! - I forgot a VIX bit or a transfer punch for using with the Perf Board for marking the centers

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Last edited by kp91; 10-03-2017 at 09:20 PM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 10:05 PM
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@kp91

The accuracy is needed if the hole pattern is used to establish perpendicular lines, when horizontal dogs are used to mimic a fence and the vertical dogs to set the rail/track perpendicular to the "fence", This way, the part being cut can be butted against the horizontal dogs, the track against the vertical ones and a perpendicular cut made on the part.

The attached photo shows this - I'm squaring up the end of a panel that has been run through the table saw before cutting to size for a drawer bottom. Also, the dogs can be set on a diagonal and used to cut a 45į on the part.

There are a couple of vendors that sell "jigs" utilizing a piece of pegboard and a plunge router to make a top; I've watched the videos of the operation and would guess that the Parf Guide is an easier way to go. I'd looked at the Parf Guides and would agree that the cost is such that it's not economical unless you make more than one top, or are looking for something other than the standard Festool size replacement top.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-03-2017, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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@kp91

The accuracy is needed if the hole pattern is used to establish perpendicular lines, when horizontal dogs are used to mimic a fence and the vertical dogs to set the rail/track perpendicular to the "fence", This way, the part being cut can be butted against the horizontal dogs, the track against the vertical ones and a perpendicular cut made on the part.

The attached photo shows this - I'm squaring up the end of a panel that has been run through the table saw before cutting to size for a drawer bottom. Also, the dogs can be set on a diagonal and used to cut a 45į on the part.

There are a couple of vendors that sell "jigs" utilizing a piece of pegboard and a plunge router to make a top; I've watched the videos of the operation and would guess that the Parf Guide is an easier way to go. I'd looked at the Parf Guides and would agree that the cost is such that it's not economical unless you make more than one top, or are looking for something other than the standard Festool size replacement top.
The value of the PARF jig I think would come down to how often you use and how much wear you put on the table top. Someone making cabinets for a living is going to put more mileage on their table top versus the home hobbyist and enthusiast.

The home user would better off buying a Festool top online. Iíll have to take a look at Danís design to see if the Parf dog jig is required for the sides of the table.

I love to make pretty things for pretty little things
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-04-2017, 12:05 AM
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Stupid question.... do the holes need to be spaced with such accuracy? (Alright, I am cheap....)

You could lay out your grid using a sheet of peg board as a template $6

General drill guide (3/8 chuck) $35
General Tools Drill Guide and Chuck-36/37 - The Home Depot

20mm (or whatever size your dogs are) Forstner bit $9

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/w...m-forstner-bit

About $50, and you can use the tools for other projects as well.

OOPS! - I forgot a VIX bit or a transfer punch for using with the Perf Board for marking the centers
That's pretty much how I would do it. Except I would just mark it out with a ruler, pencil, and straightedge, and seeing as how I don't have a transfer punch, I would likely just use a nail. As for accuracy of the holes, I don't see why they can't be a hair off. I don't see it taking too long to drill the holes either.
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"It ain't what you're told, it's what you know." - Granny Weatherwax
Some days, the supply of available curse words is insufficient to meet my demands.
Call me a craftsman, artisan, or artistic, and I will accept that. Call me an artist and you will likely get a quite rude comment in return. I am not a @#$%ing artist.
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